May To Do in the Garden

by Gary Crispell, EMGV

“It’s May! It’s May, the merry month of May.” But this is North Carolina, not Camelot and the rain doesn’t just fall overnight, but rather over the weekend…all the weekends, 14 out of 17 so far in 2023.
Surely it will be different in May. Maybe all the kids who have been stuck in school all week while the sun shines, anticipating all their myriad weekend outdoor activities will actually get to do them this month. Their parents certainly hope so.
The Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) is really waking up. Besides the Siberian wall flower (Cheiranthus allioni) mentioned last month she now sports Bath’s pink dianthus (Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Bath’s Pink) in profusion, English daisies (Bellis perennis) and a couple of bearded iris cultivars (Iris germanica). The peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) have come and gone, but the red buckeye (Aesculus pavia) has been blooming for three weeks.
The 200k + wildflower seeds that were sewn in March have nearly all germinated. (You know I went out and counted them.) There will be a veritable meadow in a cigar box when they start blooming. Also, at least half of the 100 sunflower seeds have survived the ravages of squirrels, field mice and birds. This year promises to be another exciting season in the garden waiting to see what will bloom next.

There is a plethora of things to do in and around the garden this month. Here’s a guide to keep you from being overwhelmed.

LAWN CARE: As April was mostly Mayish it turned out to be good advice last month when I indicated that you could fertilize warm season grasses (Bermuda and zoysia) last month. If you missed that, May is not too late.
This month you can now feed centipede its once a year chemical meal.
You can also fertilize cool season grasses (fescue, bluegrass & perennial rye) now, but be judicious with the quantity and use a balanced (10-10-10 or equivalent) product.
Mow cool season grasses at 3”- 4” and warm season grasses at 1 ½”- 2”.

FERTILIZING: Crops that produce over a long period of time (think tomatoes, squash, beans, etc.) will reward you with higher yields if you feed them about now (or next week).
Summer blooming flowers, but not wildflowers, would also be pleased with a bit of extra sustenance this month. Wildflowers prefer to fend for themselves. They aren’t called “wild” for nothing.
Non-native rhododendrons and azaleas can be treated to a meal of acid producing fertilizer provided your FREE SOIL TEST indicated a high pH (>6).

PLANTING: Oh, boy!! It’s May. We can plant from dawn ‘til dusk (if someone will come by and help us get back up at the end of the day and/or make a PT appointment for us).
Beans such as green, snap, pole, bush, lima/butter (no DNA difference, y’all), melons, like cantaloupe, watermelon, honey dew, etc., cucumbers, corn, southern peas, squash of all sorts, pumpkins, eggplant, okra (toward the end of the month), all of the myriad varieties of peppers and, of course, tomatoes can all be planted with abandon.
Gladioli bulbs, begonias, geraniums and anything else you didn’t optimistically plant last month when it was 85 degrees outside and you were sure summer had arrived can be stuck in the ground now.

PRUNING: Spring flowering shrubs (forsythia, camellias, azaleas, etc.) can be safely pruned after the blooms fade. It is generally safe to prune azaleas up to the Fourth of July without jeopardizing next year’s flower production.
Properly sized at planting Encore azaleas should require very little in the way of pruning. However, if a stray branch or two should insult your sense of aesthetics, you should prune the offenders in the spring immediately after the spring bloom period.
Pinch back garden mums until mid-July for fall floral displays.
Hand prune leaf galls from azaleas and camellias. They ain’t purty, but neither are they particularly harmful.
Let’s talk about spring bulbs for a minute. I know what your grandmother did and her grandmother and lord knows how many grandmothers before that, but please do not cut the foliage off as soon as the flowers fade. I know you have heard of photosynthesis (You’re smart enough to be reading this.), so here’s the deal. The leaves produce sugar via photosynthesis (The editor won’t let me explain all that process in this post. Read the book.) and send it down to the bulb where it is stored in starch form to be used next spring to make pretty flowers again. Cut off the foliage prematurely and sacrifice the health of the bulbs. Eventually, no blooms. Are we good here?

SPRAYING: AN UNPAID PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: When thinking about spraying for most insects, check the suspect plants to see if there really are insects and if the damage is enough to affect the health (or aesthetic) of the plant. If not, hold off with the pesticide treatment. Preventative treatment should be left to those producing commercially.
That said, spray the following species for borers (which you most likely will not see even if you look): azaleas, blueberries (Remember somebody’s gonna eat ‘em eventually.), iris and start spraying squash continuing until mid-June.
Scout coniferous evergreens for bag worms and spider mites. Bag worms should be out of the bag, so to speak, for a couple of weeks this month which makes them infinitely more vulnerable to chemical control.
Other six and eight legged critters on the loose beginning this month include azalea lace bugs (who have only been inactive when the leaf surface temperature was under about 40 degrees F), boxwood leaf miners (They will appear as fly-like adults this month and like bag worms are easier to treat than when they are mining. You can see their little lamps inside the leaf, but you can’t get to them.), euonymus and tea scales on euonymus (Where’d you think?) and camellias (where tea comes from—C. sinensis), spider mites especially on coniferous evergreens, and aphids on any plant ever catalogued by a horticulturist anywhere, and finally, white flies.
Monitor tomatoes for early and /or late blight. Spray an appropriate fungicide (early for early and later for late—surprisingly enough).
ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL INSTRUCTIONS.

SO-YOU-FINISHED-EVERYTHING-ON-THE-ABOVE-LIST-AND -STILL-CAN’T-GET-ENOUGH-OUTSIDE:
It’s May Y’all. Do we really need an excuse to be outside? Seriously? Just grab a beverage and sit on the deck, porch, patio, front lawn it matters not and watch stuff grow. It’s growing that fast right now. Enjoy May. Next month it’ll be too something (hot, humid, buggy, whatever) for some folks.
Happy Cinco de Mayo and Memorial Day! (Thank a vet.)


Hi, it’s your friendly Editor here with a link to more details about Photosynthesis! It’s not a book but it’ll get you started.

Free Soil Tests: it’s that time of year. Here’s how to test your soil.

Shortlink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-3nk

Garden To-Do List for April

by Gary Crispell, Master GardenerSM Volunteer

APRIL GARDENING CALENDAR 2023

What a roller coaster ride!!  Let’s call it Maruaryune because it came right after Februril.  Pity the plants.  They are sooo confused.  We have a pair of azaleas (Rhododendron x poukensis) in the backyard.  The blooms on one were totally annihilated by the last hard freeze.  The other one is doing just fine even though they aren’t four feet apart.  The fig (Ficus x Brown Turkey) may have received a terminal shot this year.  It is the second year in a row that the leaves have been frozen just as they were emerging.  The apple tree (Malus x Yellow Delicious) is unfazed by it all, thank you very much.

The Accidental Cottage Garden is surprising me yet again.  I had planned to remove the mulch and till the entire bed with the tractor, but there are too many perennials returning for me to justify that.  So, looks like a job for the mini-tiller and way more work for the gardener.  Life can be sooo hard sometimes.

One of the returning perennials is the Siberian wallflower (named for a junior high boy at his first dance).  (Cheiranthus allionii).  It is already in full bloom.  Let us hope April is pleasant (i.e., warm) so that the 250,000 seeds I bought will all germinate and give me something to write about all summer.  Now I have shared part of my “to do” list.  Here is a more complete list of things we can do together apart.

Cheiranthus allionii (Siberian wallflower) – photo credit: Gary Crispell

LAWN CARE:  Statistically this is the first month to fertilize warm season grasses (Bermuda & zoysia—not centipede) because they should be just breaking dormancy.  My zoysia broke dormancy three weeks ago.  Go ahead and fertilize like everything is normal (Might not be any such thing.)

Centipede gets its only feeding in late May.

Just like last year, the window for applying preemergent crabgrass control may well have slammed shut two weeks ago.  The rule of thumb is to make the application sometime between when forsythia blooms and when the dogwoods (Cornus florida) bloom.  The C. florida in my yard are wide open in bloom now.

Cool season grasses may also be fertilized now using a balanced (10-10-10 or equivalent) fertilizer in moderation.

FERTILIZING:  Besides lawns (see above), all the stuff you didn’t get to last month because you couldn’t bring yourself to do it in 45 degree weather or when it was raining (which was most of the time it wasn’t 45) can be fertilized now.

PLANTING:  It is soooo tempting.  Like the weather is mostly warm(ish).  And the sun feels so good.  And we’ve been cooped up since I don’t know when.  And…  It’s a crap shoot, y’all.  I’m gonna list ‘em with the caveat  that you might have to protect them before the month is over.  Or you can be conservative and wait until mid April.  This blog assumes no responsibility for frosted plants that we didn’t plant ourselves.  That said, here’s what can be planted ‘cause the soil temp is already all ready.

Squash, cucumber, melons and corn can be planted from seed.  Go ahead and bring out the flats of tomatoes and peppers that you started in January and stick ‘em in the dirt.  Please plant enough to share.  Some folks have thumbs that are other colors than green and some folks carry all their possessions on their backs and don’t have anywhere to plant stuff.  All of them like fresh veggies.

Warm season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia, centipede) can be planted now.  Bermuda can be planted from seed, but the requirements are stringent.  Zoysia, centipede and hybrid Bermudas need to be sodded or plugged (sprigged).  NCSU Turffiles website is a great resource for any North Carolina grass information.

PRUNING:  Remove winter damage from trees and shrubs.

Suppress any urges to prune spring-flowering shrubs {lilac (Syringa sps.), azaleas (Rhododendron x hybrids), mock orange (Philadelphus), etc.} until after the blooms fade.

Prune berry-bearing plants [hollies (Ilex sps.), pyracantha, etc.] while in flower to know how much fruit is being pruned away.

Prune flowering cherry (Prunus sps.) and redbud (Cersis sps.) only as needed.

SPRAYING:  The bugs are not confused.  They are opportunistic and the weather has been warm enough often enough to provide lots of opportunities.  So, they are out there feeding on anything they can get their little mouth parts on.  The usual suspects this time of the year are lace bugs on azaleas and pyracantha, boxwood leaf miners (self-explanatory), euonymus and tea scales on euonymus and camellias (and other stuff in the vicinity—opportunity) and spider mites on lots of varieties, but most likely on coniferous (cone bearing) evergreens.  Aphids will be on literally everything as soon as it is consistently warm.

A light horticultural oil will usually result in positive outcomes (the critters will die) as the oil smothers all phases of the insect life cycle.  Insecticidal soap is effective on larval and adult phases.  Other more toxic products are available, but are less ecologically friendly.  Always read the label and follow all the instructions contained thereon.

Spray iris beds for borers.

Treat cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts) for worms (caterpillars).

Spray squash plants weekly from now until June for squash vine borers.

Spray apple and pear trees with streptomycin to control fire blight.  Apply once at bud opening and again at full bloom.  In rainy weather a third application may be necessary.

Begin weekly fruit tree spray program after the blossoms drop their petals.

Pots of pansies brighten up the deck – photo credit: Gary Crispell

OTHER STUFF TO KEEP YOU OFF THE STREETS WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE “TO DO” LIST (or not):

By mid-month it’ll be time to hit the local garden shop (not big box) for those delightful bunches of color we call annuals.  By the end of the month the selection should be awesome and who doesn’t love the cheerfulness of a pot full of Evovulus, or petunias, or celosia, or a thousand other species.  We keep pots of pansies on the deck all winter and whatever catches our eye at the garden shop for the summer.  I’m always open to trying new varieties.

Mulch is a many splendored thing.  It is the finishing touch to a landscape planting.  Not only is it aesthetically pleasing, but it is functional by helping to mitigate soil moisture loss, keeping roots cool and assisting in the suppression of weeds.

April being what it is in North Carolina, requires a bit of spontaneity on our part if we want to sit outside and partake of nature’s goodness.  I mean, the weather has been known to change hourly.  One has to be always ready and flexible.  It’s worth the effort when you hit it right.  Only May and October are better and October is equally unpredictable.  (It just has the multi-hued leaves as a redeeming value.)

So, IT’S SPRING!!!  Enjoy.  

Happy new beginnings, y’all.

Further reading:

From NCSU:

NCSU Turffiles

General Pruning Techniques

From the Blog:

More about horticultural oils

Mulch and more mulch