Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Durham County

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master Gardener ^SM volunteer of Durham County (aka the Accidental Cottage Gardener)

Welcome to September. The month North Carolina natives and long-time residents have looked forward to since late May (and maybe even longer this year). It is the month we hope will bring us cooler temperatures or at least less humidity. This year we shall see. After ten months of parching drought we had one month of three months’ rain. August was back to being a little dry. September…who knows? Climate change has scrambled things a bit. At least we are not literally burning up nor are we drowning. See, it’s all good (well, mostly) in this the “goodliest state.”

The Accidental Cottage Garden is just full of itself, what with all the rain and sunshine. Once again there are twenty-one species in bloom. The goal of zinnias (Zinnia elegans) and cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus & C. bipinnata) for cut flower arrangements has been attained (and attained and attained). Apparently ¼ pound of zinnia seeds and 2 ounces of cosmos for 150 sq. ft. is overkill. Who knew? They are right pretty, though. The list of all the others will be at the end of the post.

Zinnias and Cosmos continue to thrive in the ACG, even with the heat and drought. (Image credit: Gary Crispell)

Lawn Care

Time to rejuvenate cool season lawns (tall fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye). Unless you irrigated this summer, they probably look rather sad. We assume that you did avail yourself of the FREE SOIL TEST service from NCDOA this year and know how much lime and N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) fertilizer you need to add to your soil. So, there are basically three approaches to rejuvenation.

They all start with spreading the lime and fertilizer over the yard. The first method is for those of you who only have some relatively small bare patches. Loosen the soil in the areas to be reseeded, scatter seed on the loose soil and tamp it down (Not stomp…just walk over it firmly.). Spread a light covering of wheat straw over any patch larger than one square foot. Keep moist until germination and then water thoroughly as needed to give it about an inch of water per week.

Method two involves a core aerator. Spread chemicals as above and core aerate the lawn twice in perpendicular directions. Spread seed over entire lawn and cover large bare areas with wheat straw. Water as above.

The third method is drastic. It is used when your lawn looks like my backyard…totally nekkid. Spread lime and fertilizer then till up the whole yard. Spread seed and roll yard to achieve optimal seed/soil contact. Cover yard with wheat straw and water as above. The book says all this should be done by the second week of October. The book ain’t wrong. A little conservative maybe, but not wrong.

Do not fertilize any warm season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia, centipede) anymore this year. They are getting ready for a long winter’s nap and unlike bears they do not need to fatten up.

Grub control efforts are still worthwhile until the middle of the month when the grubs, too, are going into hibernation (having already fattened up on your lawn’s roots).

Pruning

Nope. Nicht. Non. Nyet. No! Sharpen the pruning shears and loppers and oil ‘em up then hang ‘em up until Black Friday or Boxing Day even.

Spraying

The same culprits that you were saying bad things about in August are still out there—all of them and most likely in the same places they were then. They are tenaciously pernicious. Get them! I shall forthwith reveal their identities and their likely hideouts. Wooly adelgids will be creeping around hemlocks while spider mites are not so discerning. They will lurk on the underside of any coniferous evergreen’s needlelike leaves and on most other plants that might be under stress. (They have no mercy.) Tea scales will be found on euonymus and camellias. These will either have to sprayed with a horticultural oil to smother them or you can pick them off individually and smush them. Well, not necessarily with your bare fingers. That is rather yucky. Lace bugs will be hanging out on pyracantha and azaleas, especially those growing in sunny locations. (Azaleas are an understory plant, after all.)

Most tree species are fed upon by spider mites (NC State Extension) including spruce and oak.

As always, continue any rose maintenance program.

Propagation

Here is your chance to get dirt under your fingernails. I know you want to.

Dig up spring-flowering bulbs and tubers and rhizomes and divide them. Daffodils really like the attention as do irises and day lilies. The reward you get in the spring will more than compensate for having to get your nails done again. (Real men aren’t afraid of the manicurist.)

Peonies that need transplanting can receive that attention now. Dig a big hole and a big root ball. Just be aware of not planting too deep. Only as deep as the hole they came out of. Cut back any old stems and mulch well.

OTHER STUFF TO DO SHOULD SEPTEMBER TURN OUT TO BE ABSOLUTELY SPECTACULAR

It could happen, you know. It’d be a shame to get to October before you realized that September had been spectacular. Stay aware.

It’s not too late to plant a fall garden.

Go camping with the grandkids.

Get the firepit ready for that first crisp fall evening.

Just go outside and revel in the goodness and wonder of nature.

Remember: FALL IS FOR PLANTING

ACG PLANT LIST:

Black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
Blanket flower (Gallardia pulchella)
African marigold (Tagetes erecta)
Cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus)
C. bipinnata
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Zinnia ` (Zinnia elegans)
Evening primrose (Oenothera lumarkiana)
Chinese forget-me-not (Cynoglossum amabile)
Canadian goldenrod (Solidago altissima)
Common goldenrod (S. canadensis)
Canna lily (Canna x generalis)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit)
Prairie sunflower (Helianthus petiolaris)
Hydrangea Limelight (Hydrangea macrophila ‘Limelight’)
Resindot sunflower (Helianthus resinosus)
False vervain (Verbena carnea)
Common tradescantia (Tradescantia virginiana)
Chinese chives (Allium tuberosum)

Additional Reading and Resources

Want a quick tutorial on how to plant spring flowering bulbs?

https://forsyth.ces.ncsu.edu/news/fall-is-the-time-to-add-flowering-bulbs-in-your-garden

Editor: Martha Keehner Engelke

Shortlink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-826

By Astrid Cook-Dail, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

Many people are familiar with the “Ask a Master Gardener” tents at local Durham events such as the farmers’ markets (both at Durham Central Park and in south Durham)… but did you know you can also ask all the plant questions you can think of from the comfort of your couch?

If you’re looking around your garden and see something curious, you can snap a few photos and email mastergardener@dconc.gov or call the helpline (919-560-0528). If you prefer, you can visit the Durham County Cooperative Extension Master Gardener^SM program office in person at 721 Foster Street, Durham, NC. The helpline and office are both open Monday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Entrance to office 110 marked 'Master Gardener Volunteer Office' with wooden door and a sign above.

Outside the EMGV office at 721 Foster Street (Image credit: Astrid Cook-Dail)

Today, we are going behind-the-scenes at the office in an interview with Tina Falker to share some of the most popular questions asked and some helpful tips for submitting questions to make sure you get the most helpful assistance possible!

Tomatoes

The most common question for the office in late summer: What’s wrong with my tomato, and what can I do about it?

Of course tomato questions are pouring in right about now, when plants are tired (like all of us) of the unpredictable weather and relentless heat and humidity. So here are just a couple of quick tomato tips:

Tomatoes drop their blossoms in high heat both during the daytime and when nighttime temperatures don’t cool down. They are a warmth-loving crop but they don’t like it too hot. (More about tomato blossom drop from ACES)
Unpredictable weather such as extended drought and extreme rain events – both of which our area has seen this year – increase the likelihood of tomato issues to due heightened plant stress.

If you would like more tomato growing advice, we did a whole post about that: Achieving Peak Tomato Performance.

Tips for Submitting Questions

Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteers often play the role of “plant CSI.” It is our job to do some important detective work as we try to help answer your questions as thoroughly and accurately as possible and provide a trustworthy source of research-based information, especially in the AI era. Including the following information with your question helps us help you more quickly:

Do you know what the plant is? Are you sure? If you’re unsure, tell us what you know about it – whether it’s evergreen (keeps foliage all year) or deciduous (drops leaves usually in autumn or winter), what its flowers look like if it has any, etc.
What are the growing conditions? How much sun does it get? How much moisture?
Where is it growing, and how long has it been there?
Have there been any recent changes to your landscape?
When did you first notice the problem?

These three photos of Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) illustrate how different levels of detail in plant photos can help diagnose issues. Photos further away and closer up provide essential context. (Image credit: Matt Lavin; Cathy DeWitt; JC Raulston Arboretum)

Photos are very helpful in assessment. If possible include a landscape shot to give the setting, then a separate photo of the plant itself and a closeup photo of the problem. A photo that shows both healthy and unhealthy portions of the plant can provide key information.

A ziplock bag containing green Morning Glory vine leaves with visible holes, accompanied by a handwritten note asking about the cause of the damage.

An example of what a plant sample dropped off in-person looks like. (Image credit: Astrid Cook-Dail)

You can also stop by the office and submit a physical sample, but beware that samples of dead, dried up foliage is usually not helpful. Instead, the sample should show the full range of symptoms, including healthy and unhealthy portions.

Reminder: Soil Tests Are Still Free!

You can find soil test boxes and forms (remember to take both!) to pick up and drop off samples here in the blue box outside the office. (Image credit: Astrid Cook-Dail)

Late summer and early fall is a great time to do a soil test, especially if you are looking to plant a fall vegetable garden or decide on cover cropping. (Read more about the importance of soil health in our post: A Better Way to Think About Soil.) Want to pick up a soil test kit, or drop off your soil sample? April through November, boxes and forms for sampling are available in the blue cabinet on the north side of the Durham County Extension Building at 721 Foster St. When complete, your results will be sent to you by email. If you need assistance interpreting your soil test report, we are happy to help with that as well.

Additional Recommendations and Resources

How to submit a sample to the NCSU Plant Disease and Insect Clinic

Edited by Astrid Cook-Dail, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County