Tomatoes: The “Shock & Awe” of Single-Leader Pruning

By Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

A ripe heirloom tomato, showcasing its greenish-brown striped skin, with two slices cut to reveal its juicy red interior and seeds, resting on a white cutting board.

Behold the star of the 2026 Tomato Trial: the striking Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye slicer with its port-red and olive-green stripes. Growers and tomato lovers alike know that its good looks are second only to its complex flavor. It was also the variety used in our first tomato trial, testing grafted against ungrafted tomatoes, and we thought the comparison might be interesting. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Exactly one month after we planted 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes for this year’s tomato trials, members of the tomato team watched in shock and awe as Durham County Extension Agent and project leader, Ashley Troth, pruned every plant to a single leader removing an average of 30% to 50% of the plant. “I’d rather hurt your feelings than the plant’s,” she said.  “In the end, we’ll have bigger tomatoes, and more importantly, healthier plants.”

In this year’s project we are comparing three different root treatments to test their effectiveness on both production and longevity. The results will be compared both to an earlier trial where grafted tomatoes out-performed un-grafted, and to our “control” tomatoes which did not receive a root treatment. 

A collection of colored plastic tags arranged in groups, featuring labels such as E1, E5, G2, M3, T1, and V6, laid out on a white surface.

Individual identification tags for each of the 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes in our trial. Tomatoes, we’ve got your number! (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Five beds were each planted with eight tomatoes. Each bed had one of the following root treatments:  

  • mycorrhizae1
  • grafted root stock
  • vermicompost2
  • vermicompost and mycorrhizae
  • no root treatment 

All plants were fertilized with Tomato-tone® according to package directions.

The protocol is to grow each tomato on a single leader. And while the team regularly pruned suckers, we clearly weren’t aggressive enough as almost every tomato ended up with a sucker that turned into a double leader.  Ashley gallantly picked up the shears.  “When you prune to single leader you have fewer flowers, but this also gives each tomato fruit a chance to really grow. You also really open up the airflow through the plant, which helps decrease the chance of disease. While the poundage put out by the plant will be the same, it will come in fewer but bigger tomatoes, and many people appreciate the larger fruit.”

Single-Leader Pruning on Tomatoes

What Is It?

Every tomato starts with a single stalk, but as it grows, suckers – small new shoots that grow out of the “V” space where a horizontal branch joins the main vertical stem – grow. Unpruned, the sucker will grow into a full-sized main branch with tomatoes of its own, creating a dense plant. 

Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye is a vigorous indeterminate cultivar, and the big fruit also requires a longer time to ripen. In this case single-leader pruning, especially in a congested garden, makes sense. While we often prune to two leaders when tomatoes are trellised, a single leader allows tomatoes that are tied to individual stakes as they grow to have increased air flow and therefore decreased disease pressure. (However, it is not advisable for determinate varieties on which tomatoes ripen over a short period of time.)

 Why Do It?
  • It creates a plant with only one “leader” or main branch that is easier to stake.
  • It encourages the plant to create fewer, but larger tomatoes.
  • It helps prevent fungal disease by increasing airflow.
How Is It Done?

Find the weaker of two leaders and prune. To avoid any cross-infection, sterilize your pruners between plants.

(Left to right) Extension agent and project leader Ashley Troth boldly cutting the weaker leader of the plant. Immediately, the plant looks more open. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Identifying the Sucker

A tomato sucker is a small aggressive new shoot that grows in the “crotch” of a tomato plant where the horizontal leaf branch meets the main vertical stem. It grows out at a 45-degree angle. If left to develop, it will grow into a whole new branch capable of flowering and producing tomatoes.

(Left) Discerning a sucker from a new main branch can be challenging as seen here in a tomato plant in the trial that had the main branch accidentally cut. (Right) Detail of new sucker forming. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

The untrained eye can easily mistake a new main branch from a sucker as seen in this photo from our Tomato Trial. One month after the leader was accidentally trimmed, a new sucker has begun to form. It will eventually become the “leader.” But the severe pruning has definitely left the plant in a state of distress. We will follow this plant throughout the season.

The image below, clearly illustrates the difference between a sucker and new growth.

Illustration explaining how to identify suckers and new leaders on a plant, showing main stem, leaf branch, and developing leaves.

When pruning tomatoes, it’s critical to understand how to differentiate the main leader from a sucker. Pruning the main leader is not necessarily deadly but it can put the plant under stress. Production might also suffer. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton via Google Gemini)

Rows of tomato plants supported by stakes in a garden bed, with burlap covering the soil.

And finally, a beauty shot of our new trimmed and slimmed tomatoes. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Pruning isn’t just about aesthetics; it plays a major role in plant health. Disease resistance is the key to a plant’s longevity. Wet tomato leaves – from watering, rain, dew, or irrigation — are a breeding ground for fungal disease. Pruning creates better air circulation allows the leaves to dry to a point that reduces the environment for fungal spore germination. 

If, like us, you have limited space and could use more “air” among your tomatoes, it’s not too late to create a single leader. It takes a bold heart. But you are likely to gain longer-lived plants and the bigger tomatoes that go with them.

Notes

1–Mycorrhizae are naturally occurring fungi in healthy soil, and they have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of many plants. These fungi absorb nutrients from the soil and transfers them to the plant. In return, host plant provides needed carbohydrates to the fungi. Home gardeners can purchase mycorrhizae amendments and even soil inoculated with the fungi.

2–Vermicompost is a nutrient-dense organic fertilizer and soil amendment that earthworms produce as they break down organic waste like yard trimmings and food scraps. You’ll often hear people refer to it as worm castings.

Resources and Additional Information

How to Achieve Peak Tomato Performance

Understanding Mycorrhizae

Vermicomposting Basics

Supporting Tomato Plants

2024 Tomato Trials

Edited by Melinda Heigel and Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Article Short Link https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7Es

To Do in the Garden: June 2026

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM volunteer of Durham County

Summer must have started because Memorial Day has come and gone.  Today is July-like — humid, rather warm, and breezy. (This informational tome of wisdom and snarkiness is still human generated, which means a deadline exists prior to the first of the month — hence the less-than-timely observation.)  It is threatening to rain, but the credibility of the threat is nonexistent.

Meanwhile the Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) is trying its best to discern exactly what season it is and what it should do about it.  Current cohabitating contributors to the conspicuously colorful collection of organisms with cellulose cell walls include lance-leaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), orange daylilies (Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta), Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis), wand flower (Oenothera lindheimeri, formerly known as Gaura lindheimeri), gaillardia (Gaillardia pulchella), Asiatic lily (Lilium x ‘Corsica’), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), and prairie coneflower/Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera).  The English daisies (Bellis perennis), flax (Linum usitatissimum), larkspur (Delphinium carolinianum), and sweet William (Dianthus barbatus ‘Sweet Black Cherry’) are carry-overs from last month.

Left to right: New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus) (Image credit Debbie Roos CC BY 2.0); black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta), Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis), (Image credits Gary Crispell),

Others new to the conspicuously colorful collection are New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii), and love-in-the-mist (Nigella damascena – a total surprise hidden amongst the larkspur).  A decidedly delightful display, if I do say so myself.

The weather continues to be perplexing.  Do we garden in jeans or shorts — sweatshirt, tee shirt, or layered?  Too many decisions.

Thought for the month: If a beverage containing alcohol is a potent potable, is a non-alcoholic beverage impotent?  LET’S GARDEN!!!

Lawn Care

Because I realize there are some of you out there who are too busy/new to the Piedmont of NC/not paying attention/just plain horticulturally uneducated, I am urging you to fertilize your warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia) now, as in right now.  April or May would have been just fine, but now it is mandatory.  You will know how much and what formulation because you got a FREE SOIL TEST earlier.  (No.  Probably not, as you have not fertilized yet.  All excuses from above, I suppose.)  Remember that soil tests are free from April through November.  Contact the NC Cooperative Extension office at 919-560-0525 for more information on obtaining a free soil test kit with instructions. If you insist on winging it, 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of turf is a safe application rate.

Extension Horticulture Agent Jeana Myers from NC State Extension demonstrates how to collect a soil test. (Video credit: Homegrown YouTube Channel from NC State Extension).

June is THE month to fertilize centipede grass.  The 1 pound per 1,000 sq. ft. rate applies to centipede as well.

Summer is a good time to core aerate¹ any lawn.  Aeration facilitates air, water, and nutrient movement through the soil and to the root zone.

Always wanted a zoysia grass lawn?  June is a really good month to start one.  You will need to use sod or plugs, as zoysia seeds are not commercially available.

Fertilizing

Dogwoods (Cornus spp.) can be fertilized now.  Again, a FREE SOIL TEST and its resulting recommendations would be helpful here — too many variables for general guidance.

Throw a handful of 10-10-10 or equivalent at the plants in the veggie garden.  It will assist the quantity and quality of your anticipated harvest.

Planting

All of y’all who have been waiting for warm weather to plant your vegetable garden better hustle up now.  It is here and gone and come again.  So, if you want tomatoes before Labor Day…  At this point it is necessary to install plants rather than seeds for most vegetables other than beans and maybe pumpkins.

For those of you who plan ahead, it is time to start seeds for your fall/winter garden.  Cruciferous veggies (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, collards) can be started now to be transplanted in mid-July.  For more information on fall vegetable gardening read more about year round gardening on our blog.

Pruning

Coniferous² evergreens such as pine, juniper, chamaecyparis (Chamaecyparis spp.), and cryptomeria (Cryptomeria japonica) can be lightly pruned now.  Be aware that they generally do not produce new foliage beneath a pruning cut.

Hedges and any severely overgrown plants can be radically cut back.  The book says never more than one-third of the top, but anecdotally I can tell you that many broadleaf evergreens and deciduous shrubs can be reduced to 18 inches or so and recover nicely.  (The author, the publication, the Extension Master Gardener SMprogram, NC State Cooperative Extension, and the university assume no liability for plants that do not recover.)

Continue to pinch back garden mums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) until mid-July if it is fall blooms you desire.  If you do not care when they bloom, well, good for you, you rebel.

Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) can be pruned as soon as the blooms fade.

Azaleas, including Encore® cultivars, can be pruned anytime from bloom fade through the 4th of July.

A dense rhododendron shrub with many green leaves and some branches with brown drooping leaves caused by dieback.

Rhododendron dieback from Botryosphaeria dothidea (Image credit: Elizabeth Bush, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Bugwood.org)

Dieback can occur in ericaceous³ plants in early summer.  Rhododendrons, including azaleas, pieris (Pieris spp.), and others can be infected by the fungus Botryosphaeria dothidea or a Phomopsis spp. fungus.  Scraping away the bark with a knife reveals a reddish-brown discoloration under the bark on dying branches of rhododendron. On azaleas, the discolored wood under the bark appears chocolate brown. Prune infected branches well below the point of infection and sterilize your pruning tools between cuts with a 10% bleach solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol.  (Good gracious, NO — not the 140-proof vodka.)  Destroy all clippings.

Spraying

Be on the lookout for the following dastardly destructive six- and eight-legged pests: lace bugs (azaleas, pyracantha), leaf miners (boxwoods), spider mites (needle-leaf evergreens), bagworms (mostly, but not exclusively, on needle-leaf evergreens), and aphids on anything they can get their pointy little mouthparts into.

There are numerous pest-control products available.  Try organic products first.  The planet is counting on you.

Japanese beetle adult and leaf damage (Image credit: Steve Schoof, NCSU)

June is prime Japanese beetle time.  (Contrary to popular myth, they do not sing “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” in Japanese while devouring your roses and crape myrtles.)  Treat them with an appropriate pesticide or pick them off and drown them.  Smush them if it gives you satisfaction.  (Personally, “I Can’t Get No Satisfaction.”)  You will find additional help in this previous blog post – Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season.”

Be aware of tomato early blight.  It shows up as brown spots on the lower leaves, followed by yellowing around the spots; eventually the whole leaf will usually turn yellow and drop.  There are several products available to treat early blight, some with a zero-days-to-harvest rating.

Vegetable gardens are susceptible to a myriad of pests.  Lots of insects (and other genera) like the fruits of your labor as much as you do — and they outnumber us.  There are multiple species of worms seeking sustenance from your cruciferous veggies.  Then there are the cucurbit lovers: cucumber beetles on (believe it or not) cucumbers and other cucurbits, squash borers on most squash varieties and melons.  You might also find flea beetles (they do not sing either) on any bean species, plus tomatoes and eggplant.  And let us not forget the ubiquitous aphids.

Continue spray programs for roses, fruit trees, and bunch grapes.

Use pesticides only when necessary.  ALWAYS read the label and follow the instructions.  Try organic first.

Miscellaneous Stuff to Do Outside in June

A word about watering.  Sometime this summer you will find it necessary to supplement Mother Nature’s somewhat capricious watering schedule.  Plants, including lawn grasses, need about one inch of water per week to sustain growth.  It is best applied in the early morning to minimize evaporative loss.  Evening watering is acceptable if leaf surfaces will be dry before nightfall — damp leaves promote disease. More information on drought-related watering is available in this previous blog post.

Alas, strawberry season is over.  It is appropriate now to renovate those beds in preparation for September planting.

Once you have exhausted the day’s to-do list (and most likely yourself), take time to kick back and enjoy the garden.  Outdoor living spaces were made for June evenings — food, family, friends, firepit, and a cool beverage (to go with the s’mores, silly).  That is what it is all about.  As T.S. Eliot wrote in “Choruses from “The Rock” (1934): “There is no life that is not in community.”  Find your community and welcome summer.

Notes

1-Core aeration is the mechanical removal of small plugs of soil and thatch from a lawn, improving air, water, and nutrient penetration to grass roots.

2-Coniferous refers to cone-bearing evergreen trees and shrubs, such as pines, junipers, and firs.

3-Ericaceous refers to plants in or adapted to the conditions preferred by the heath family (Ericaceae), which thrive in acidic soils. Rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries, and pieris are common examples.

Resources and Additional Information

A how-to on preparing your (free until November!) soil test: Now’s the Perfect Time to Test Your Soil! – Durham County Center | N.C. Cooperative Extension

Helpful information on summer and fall vegetable gardening: Vegetable Gardening 101 – Gardening | NC State Extension and previous blog post Garden Veggies Year Round – One Gardener’s Calendar

More about rhododendron and azalea dieback and other diseases: Azalea & Rhododendron Diseases in South Carolina: Identification, Prevention, and Treatment | Home & Garden Information Center

Learn more about Japanese beetle management here: Japanese Beetle | NC State Extension Publications and previous blog post Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season”

Guidance for drought-related watering strategies: Essential Gardening Tips for Drought Conditions

Edited by Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM volunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7BO