growing media – Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Durham County

*A bounty of beautiful tomatoes.* (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

By Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SMvolunteer of Durham County

This summer, Durham County is one of eight counties in North Carolina to participate in a state-wide tomato trial. We will compare yields of three tomatoes created by NC State against ‘Cherokee Purple’ regarded for its flavor, productivity, and resistance to cracking. Check out our page on the blog called “Tomatoes on Trial” The 2024 Tomato project here. While we are busy conducting the trials, here are some tips to help you maximize your harvest.

Water Carefully and Consistently

Cracking occurs when tomatoes get a huge amount of water all at once (as an example, after a major storm) causing the fruit to swell and the skin, because it cannot grow fast enough, to crack. Calcium travels from the soil through water, and if water is insufficient the calcium never reaches the fruit, resulting in blossom end rot. This condition usually affects the first tomatoes and can be reversed with regular watering.

(Left to right) Cracking often occurs after a heavy rain. The skin can’t keep up with the swelling of pulp and consequently splits. (Image credit: Mary Knierim) Blossom end rot is preventable by consistent watering which brings calcium up into the fruit. (Image credit: NCSU Plant Disease and Insect Clinic)

During the growing season, tomatoes need 1 – 2” of water per week, the equivalent of two to four gallons. One way to measure this is to time how long it takes to fill a two-gallon container, then count along each time you water. To reduce the incidence of soil-borne diseases splashing on to the tomato vine, water at soil level, preferably in the morning to allow any leaves to dry out during the day. It is best to water deeply once or twice a week to encourage root development. The soil should be damp 6 – 8” down. Use a water meter, a trowel, or your finger to get a “reading.”

Mulch Your Bed, or at Least your Plants

Mulching carries multiple benefits. It keeps the soil moist and can help reduce both weeds and the spread of soil-borne diseases. Organic options include dried grass clippings, which have not been treated with an herbicide, and shredded cardboard or newspaper. Other options include hay or straw, and leaves (provided they are not from the black walnut tree). Avoid sawdust and wood chips which will draw nitrogen out of the soil as they decompose. There are pros and cons regarding plastic mulches. Black can heat up the soil too much; clear can foster the growth of weeds. Research at Clemson University has shown that red mulch (now available in small quantities at some on-line garden retailers) can boost tomato yields by 20 percent while conserving water and controlling weeds.

(Left to right) Grass, untreated with herbicide, is an excellent mulch; Red plastic mulch developed by Clemson University and the US Department of Agriculture is now available in smaller quantities from some on-line retailers. Use it to increase yields, prevent weeds, and retain moisture. This is not to be confused with red-dyed wood mulch. (Image credits: Kathryn Hamilton)

Feed Wisely

A three-number code on each bag of fertilizer identifies its composition. The first number relates to nitrogen (think greenery); the second to phosphorous (flowers and fruit formation), and the third, potassium (contributing strong stems and disease resistance). Once the plant has started to set fruit (usually 4 to 6 weeks after planting) side dress the tomatoes with a balanced fertilizer (i.e. 8-8-8), or one in which the first number is smaller than the others. An over-abundance of nitrogen will promote vine growth at the expense of fruit. Among the best analyses for tomatoes, according to the University of Missouri are 8-32-16 and 6-24-2. Follow package directions in terms of fertilizer amount and frequency.

Practice Rigorous Maintenance

To reduce contamination by soil-borne diseases, prune the bottom leaves up by as much as a foot. Be rigorous in removing diseased and rotting leaves.

*Pruning leaves up to 18″ from the ground reduces transmission of soil-borne diseases*. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth is a highly porous powder made from the sediment of fossilized algae. Sprinkled at the base of the plant and on the leaves and fruit it can help control a variety of insects. Diatomaceous earth is not a poison; it causes insects to dry out and die by absorbing the oils and fats from their exoskeleton. To be effective it must remain dry and undisturbed. The Food and Drug Administration lists diatomaceous earth as “generally recognized as safe.” Food-grade diatomaceous products are “purified.” It is generally available in garden centers, and sometimes even at stores such as Walmart.

Fungicides

Fungicides can be helpful as both a protectant and preventative against fungal disease. Fungicides labeled for use on tomatoes and containing either chlorothalonil or mancozeb can reduce the spread of fungal leaf diseases. Copper-containing fungicides protect plants from leaf diseases caused by bacteria and some fungi. Preventative activity occurs when a fungicide is present on or in the plant before the pathogen (disease) arrives or begins to develop. Preventative fungicides can still be used if the disease is present at low levels, since they will prevent new infections from occurring on the unaffected leaf tissue. A curative situation occurs when the fungicide stops the early growth of the pathogen. But, it must be applied within 24 to 72 hours of the infection. Fruit treated with some fungicides can be eaten immediately; other fungicides require a waiting period. As with any chemicals, read the label carefully before use.

Prune for Air and Yield

In terms of yield, pruning suckers is a choice. Cutting them out will yield fewer but bigger tomatoes. Leaving them in will increase quantity. However, pruning suckers will help to increase air flow and potentially decrease air-borne disease. This can be particularly helpful if, like most tomato fans, you over-plant your garden bed.

*Suckers sprout from where the stem and branch of a tomato meet. Bonus: they will root in water to produce a new tomato plant* (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Growing tomatoes can be both challenging and rewarding. To help with the challenging issues, please find additional information in the following links.

Resources and Additional Information

Learn more about organic and inorganic mulch as well as cover crops to optimize tomato growth. Mulches for the Home Vegetable Garden (UVA) https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/426/426-326/SPES-256.pdf

This article covers tips for the home gardener and summarizes common problems related to growing tomatoes. How to Grow Tomatoes in your Garden (Utah State)
https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/tomatoes-in-the-garden

A nice review of the disease cycle and when to use preventive or curative fungicides.
Preventive vs Curative Fungicides (Iowa State) https://crops.extension.iastate.edu/cropnews/2008/07/preventative-vs-curative-fungicides

This resource provides an overview of how to diagnose tomato diseases and treatment options. A Valuable Resource on Tomato Diseases (NCSU)

https://vegetables.ces.ncsu.edu/tomatoes-diseases/

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By Deborah Pilkington, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

Container gardeners, me included, give a lot of thought to choosing which plants will go into the containers. But not a lot of thought is given to the containers themselves. Yet, to have a successful container garden in full sun, shade, or anywhere in between, the choice of pot is as important as the choice of plant. So, for the next few minutes, we’re going to look at factors that should be considered for container choices, especially in our newly-designated hardiness zone 8.

Porosity

*Examples of porous pots*. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Some containers, such as the familiar terra cotta (“baked earth” in Italian) are very porous, meaning the pot draws water from the potting media through its walls. Other porous materials include hypertufa, unglazed ceramic, and clay. Because of this, these porous pots may require more frequent watering, something to think about if they are going to be in full sun. Less porous choices would be wood or concrete, and the least porous pots are made of metal, fiberglass, plastic, or glazed ceramic. That means they are going to help the potting mix conserve water.

Size

The smaller the pot size, the more frequently it will need to be watered, sometimes more than once a day. A larger container is going to be heavier and less likely to tip over. Larger containers will require less frequent watering but can be a bear to move from location to location…unless you own one of these (see the photo below). And the cost of filling the container with potting mix is also a consideration.

*The difficulty of moving very large pots!* (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Fragility

If a container is fragile and susceptible to cracking in cold temperatures, it will need to be moved to a sheltered area for winter. Terra cotta, clay, unglazed ceramic, and hypertufa are all fragile materials. The sturdiest are metal, plastic, concrete and wood.

Heat Holders

Metal containers, and dark-colored containers are heat holders in full sun. They can even be hot to the touch! Potting mix in these containers can rise to well over 100°F. Keeping roots well-watered, unless you are growing cactus, is a must.

Shape

If you are going to grow a shrub or tree in a container, at some point the plant will need to be lifted from the container to be root pruned—an onerous but necessary task. So, for shrubs or trees you want to choose a container that is wider at the top (below on the right) rather than narrower (below on the left) to make lifting easier.

(Left) This container is more narrow at the top and would make it difficult to remove a shrub that had grown in the pot. (Right) In contrast, this pot is wider at the top than the bottom and it would be easier to remove a shrub that had been grown in the pot. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Drainage

Good drainage is a must in container gardening. If the container doesn’t have drainage holes, you can add them using a drill and the appropriate drill bit. And to ensure correct drainage, don’t put anything in the bottom of your container but soil mix. Adding gravel or covering the hole with broken terra cotta not only defeats the purpose of ensuring drainage, but it also raises the level of the perched water table, moving the level of saturated soil even higher in the container and closer to the roots.

*Drilling holes in metal containers at Cocoa Cinnamon Demo Garden on Geer Street.* (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

For gardeners with limited space, especially the newcomers to Durham’s condominiums and apartments with balconies, container gardening can bring some beauty and food to your home. For urban container gardening inspiration, visit the International Award-Winning Master Gardener^SM Container Demonstration Garden at Cocoa Cinnamon at Foster and Geer streets in Durham.

*Get more ideas on container gardening by visiting the Cocoa Cinnamon Demonstration Garden at 420 West Geer Street in Durham, NC.* (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Resources and Additional Information

Check out the links below to learn more about plant hardiness zones including the history and factors used to determine the hardiness zone of an area. What does this really mean for North Carolina gardeners?

2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map | USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Gardening Association of North Carolina – 2023 USDA Plant Zone Update (gaonc.org)

AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF AMERICA’S PLANT HARDINESS ZONES (With a Closing Look at North Carolina) | by Tom Packer

For more information on perched water tables and soilless media check out the below online guide about drainage for containers.

How to Improve Drainage in Plant Pots, The Proper Way to Do It! – Deep Green Permaculture

If you want to take a deep dive into the physics of water movement in soilless media and media components, visit the following links.

Growing Media (Potting Soil) for Containers | University of Maryland Extension (umd.edu)

Homemade Potting Media (psu.edu) — How to make your own potting media

Learn more about choosing pots with the in-depth article below.

Containers, Pots, and Planters: What Material Is Best? (gardenerspath.com)–

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