Category: Invasive species

Be Your Own Plant Detective: Spot Invasives

On By durhammastergardenersIn container gardening, endemic plants, gardening NC, invasive plants, Invasive species, native plant list for Piedmont NC, native plants, Native plants of NC

By Lisa Nadler and Martha Keehner Engelke, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Sometimes a plant becomes a rapid spreader working its way into places where you would rather it not go. Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is an example of this. It is a vigorous twining vine that is native to the eastern United States. It can grow 10-20 feet high in a season. It spreads aggressively. But, because it is native to our ecosystem, it doesn’t displace other native plants in the area. It is not invasive. In contrast, its “cousin” Japanese or Chinese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), a native of Asia, is capable of growing over plants and smothering them. It can displace native species by outcompeting them for light, space, water and nutrients.

“The term invasive applies only to non-native plants; invasive implies a negative effect on native plants and animals. On the other hand, native plants that establish quickly in your garden and spread readily are more appropriately termed “aggressive.”  Aggressive native plants generally are species adapted to recently disturbed sites where they establish and spread quickly but give way to other native plants within a few years”.1

So, how do you tell the difference?

Close-up of coral honeysuckle flowers, showcasing elongated yellow blooms surrounded by green foliage.
Close-up view of coral honeysuckle (_Lonicera sempervirens_) with green leaves and white-yellow tubular flowers growing on a tree.
Close-up of coral honeysuckle (_Lonicera sempervirens_) featuring white flowers and green leaves against a blurred green background.
Close-up of bright red and orange tubular flowers of Coral Honeysuckle (_Lonicera sempervirens_), surrounded by green leaves.

Two of the pictures above are Lonicera sempervirens (native) and two are Lonicera japonica (invasive). Can you tell the difference? Answers are at the end of the post. (Image credit: Top left: Debbie Roos; Top Right: Lucy Bradley, CC-BY 4.0; Bottom left: Hope Duckworth CC- BY 4.0; Bottom right: Chris Kreussing CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Lisa Nadler’s adventure to distinguish a native plant from an invasive plant is enlightening. It is an excellent illustration of how two plants that seem similar and are in the same family are vastly different in the impact they will have on your garden.

Plant Detective: Lisa Nadler

On a recent visit to Cocoa Cinnamon Container Garden2, Lisa Nadler made a discovery. Invasive Chinese or Sericea Lespedeza (Lespedeza cuneata) was in one of the painted pots. Lespedeza is in the Fabaceae, or bean family.

A close-up of a painted flower pot containing various plants, including invasive Chinese Lespedeza, with two arrows pointing to the identified invasive species. Background features blue and red patio chairs.
A woman wearing a colorful tank top holds a plant with roots in one hand and gives a thumbs down gesture with the other, standing in a garden setting with outdoor tables and chairs.

The picture on the left shows Lespedeza cuneata growing in a pot at Cocoa Cinnamon. In the photo on the right Deb Pilkington holds the plant after it is removed illustrating its long tap root (Image credit: Lisa Nadler)

So, what is Lespedeza and how did they know it is bad? There are both native and invasive Lespedeza plants and they can look similar. So, you need to know what to look for to know which ones to yank and which ones to leave.

Sericea lespedeza (Lespedeza cuneata) is a warm-season, perennial legume with many erect, leafy branches. It also goes by the name of Chinese Bush Clover. It was introduced from Asia in 1896 for erosion control, livestock forage and wildlife cover.  But, it has no natural diseases or insects to manage it here and it is now listed as a Rank 1-Severe Threat in NC.

According to the NC Plant Toolbox, it may be allelopathic, producing substances that chemically inhibit the growth of other plants. It forms extensive monocultures and develops an extensive seed bank in the soil, ensuring its long residence at a site. Its high tannin content makes it unpalatable to livestock and most native wildlife. So, not a very good addition for wildlife feed. It can grow up to 6 feet tall and once you know what it looks like, you’ll start seeing it everywhere, especially on road sides.

But how can you tell it from the native Bush clover species, Lespedeza virginica and Lespedeza capitata? Here are some clues.

Bloom Color (which wasn’t helpful in this case because it wasn’t in bloom.)

Lespedeza cuneata has white blooms with a touch of purple. The native Lespedeza virginica has purple flowers. But… (isn’t there always a but…) the other common native, Lespedeza capitata, has white flowers but with a redder touch.

Close-up of white and purple flowers of Lespedeza cuneata, a perennial legume with leafy branches.
Close-up of a pink flowering plant with small clusters of flowers, surrounded by green foliage in a natural setting.
Close-up view of clusters of white flowers with pink markings, with a blue butterfly perched on the blooms.

The picture on the left is Lespedeza cuneata which is invasive. In the middle is Lespedeza virginica, a native and on the right is Lespedeza capitata, another native. (Image credit: Anita 363 CC-BY-NC 2.0; CC-BY-SA-2.0; CC-BY-SA 2.0)

Leaves

Okay, so now look at the leaves. The Lespedeza cuneata (the bad guy) has leaves that are more rounded at the end with a single tooth. Also, the veins are straight and easily visible. The leaves of the Lespedeza virginica and Lespedeza capitata (the good guys) are pointier at the end, usually have a less prominent tooth and the veins are curvier (I’m sure there is a specific botanical name for that…).

A close-up image of three leaves held by a finger, showcasing the different shapes and textures of the leaves for identification.
Close-up of elongated green leaves with droplets of water, surrounded by a small green plant, potentially illustrating the invasive Lespedeza cuneata.
A hand holding a sprig with three green leaves, displaying fine venation and elongated shapes, indicative of a Lespedeza plant.

Left to right: Lespedeza cuneata; Lespedeza virginica; Lespedeza capitata (Image credit: Hamilton Native Outpost; Bonnie Semmling CC-BY-4.0; Missouri plants. com).

There are other plant families that include both native and invasive species so it is important to always be on the lookout. The Poaceae family includes invasive and native grasses. The aquatic common reed (Phragmites australis), is native to Europe but very invasive in NC. It spreads rapidly and forms dense stands. Within the Rosaceae family we find native plants but also the highly invasive Multiflora Rose (Rosa multiflora). Plants in the Oleaceae Family are popular ornamentals and there are some natives but invasive species like Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) and Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia) should not be planted. Autumn olive was introduced for wildlife habitat and ornamental purposes but has become invasive. Finally, we have the Fabaceae family. While Wisteria frutescens is a native, Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) are invasive vines in North Carolina. 

So be on the lookout and be your own plant detective!

Answers to quiz: The picture on the upper left and lower right are native (Lonicera sempervirens) the other two are Invasive (Lonicera japonica).

Note 1: This article by Christoper Moorman and Dr. Lucy Bradley, summarizes the differences between aggressive and invasive plants. https://gardening.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-create-wildlife-friendly-landscapes/why-landscapes-for-wildlife/invasive-species/

Note 2: Cocoa Cinnamon is a demonstration garden located at 420 West Geer Street, Durham, NC 2770. The Durham EMGs provide oversight and it has been an amazing source of information on best practices for growing plants in containers. Here are a few examples of previous posts inspired by the Cocoa Cinnamon project:

Winter pruning of “Little Miss Figgy”: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5Xr

“Little Miss Figgy in the City” https://wp.me/p2nIr1-50Z

Give a thought to the pot: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-4sZ

Pot Luck: Adventures in Urban Container Gardening: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2jZ

Pot Luck: A Wildlife Ecosystem in the Middle of a City? : https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2tn

Another series on invasive plants and alternatives by Jeanne Arnts, was recently published on the blog:

From Beloved to Invasive: How does it happen? https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5l3

Replacing Invasive Plants: Suggestions for Beneficial Alternatives https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5CJ

Additional Reading and Resources

For more information on plant diversity check out this article from the NC Botanical Gardens. https://ncbg.unc.edu/2025/03/06/what-are-the-most-diverse-plant-families-and-why-part-one-the-asters

The NC Native Plant Society has good information on identifying native vs. invasive plants. https://ncwildflower.org/invasive-exotic-species-list/

How do invasive plants affect our forests? Here is the answer: ttps://content.ces.ncsu.edu/invasive-plants-and-your-forests

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-68z

Asian Jumping Worms: Why Your Earthworms Might Be Acting Crazy

On By durhammastergardenersIn earthworm, Invasive species, jumping worm, mulch, mulching and soil chemistry, mulching garden beds, mulching leaves, mulching trees, mulching with arborist wood chips, mulching with cardboard, mulching with paper, over mulching, soil health, Uncategorized

By Marcia Kirinus NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

Asian Jumping Worms – A Growing Threat to Soil Health

Plump juvenile Asian jumping worms in a raised bed. In late spring, early summer you will find all life stages. (Image credit: Marcia Kirinus)

If you’ve noticed unusually active worms in your garden, it could signal a serious problem. These are likely Asian jumping worms, Amynthas spp. or Metaphire spp.. Often referred to as “Crazy Worms” or “Snake Worms,” these invasive earthworms originate from Japan and Korea. They most likely arrived in North America through contaminated soil, compost, or plant material.

According to Matt Bertone of the Insect and Disease Clinic at North Carolina State University, these worms were first recorded in North Carolina in 1978. While they’ve been around for some time, they’ve recently garnered significant attention. One theory is that climate change has boosted their population and more people are gardening.

What sets Asian jumping worms apart from the gentle earthworms we know is their frantic, snake-like wriggling when disturbed—a behavior that earned them their common name.

I first heard about them from a friend and fellow master gardener. She asked if I’d seen them on my property. I had no idea what she was talking about, but I was pretty sure I hadn’t. Living in the city, I assumed this was more of a rural issue, as she lived in a damp, wooded area that seemed ideal for such pests.

One day, while visiting her home, she scooped up a handful of soil, revealing a tangle of Asian jumping worms. “They’re everywhere,” she remarked. At first glance, they appeared to be ordinary earthworms.

“How can you tell the difference?” I asked. She dropped the worms onto her cement driveway, and they immediately began thrashing like small snakes—nothing like the slow, deliberate movements of a regular earthworm. Instead of stretching and shrinking to pull themselves along, they slithered with a serpentine, S-shaped motion. I was fascinated and alarmed.

As I learned how to identify them, I discovered Asian jumping worms in every garden bed on my property—even in my enclosed raised beds suggesting that cocoons came in with the soil, mulch, plant material or on my tools which were not cleaned from using in the native soil. The revelation of these infestations helped explain some of the mysterious plant deaths and soil issues I had noticed in the past.

Why are Asian Jumping Worms Bad?

Asian jumping worms are highly adaptable and can thrive in forests, gardens, and agricultural fields. They reproduce rapidly, out competing other earthworm species. One worm can reproduce without mating through parthenogenesis and produce enough worms to infest an entire garden. Their aggressive behavior disrupts soil ecosystems and plant communities.

Unlike common earthworms, which burrow 1-4 feet below the surface, Asian jumping worms live near the topsoil and consume all organic matter in their path. Mulch, leaf litter, old decaying roots, and leaves are quickly devoured, leaving soil depleted and structurally compromised.

In their wake, they leave behind grainy, coffee-ground-like soil that lacks essential nutrients and structure. This degraded soil erodes easily, struggles to retain moisture, and makes it difficult for plants to establish roots—especially those with shallow root systems.

Asian jumping worms are an annual species; the adults die after the first freeze. However, their cocoons/eggs which are about the size of a mustard seed, survive the winter and hatch when temperatures consistently reach 50°F. The cocoons are dirt-colored and nearly impossible to spot. They can spread easily through potted plants, landscaping equipment, mulch, tire treads, your shoes or even your dog’s paws. 

How to distinguish an Asian Jumping Worm from a Common Earthworm

Asian jumping worms can be distinguished from common European earthworms (like nightcrawlers) by several features:

  • Behavior:
    • Jumping worms thrash violently and move like a snake when handled. Their tails easily break off, much like a lizard shedding its tail when grabbed.
  • Appearance:
    • The adults are the easiest to identify because they are smooth, glossy, dark brown to gray body with a prominent, white, ring-like band (clitellum or reproductive band) encircling their body. The clitellum is located closer to the head than in the common earthworm and is flush with the body, not raised. The younger worms do not have a prominent clitellum so use other distinguishing factors such as behavior, location and color to identify them.
  • Location:
    • Found in the top layer of soil or leaf litter; they do not dig deep tunnels.
  • Castings:
    • Soil in areas with jumping worms looks like loose, dry coffee grounds.
Note the visual differences from the more common earthworm above and the invasive Asian Jumping Worm below. (Image credit: Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust)

Left: Asian Jumping worm, Amynthas spp. cocoon/egg at yellow arrow, on soil surface. Note granular soil texture all around egg due to worm castings. (Image credit: Marie Johnston, courtesy of the University of Wisconsin-Madison Arboretum) Right: The light-colored clitellum, or reproductive band around the adult Jumping Worm, wraps completely around its body and is not raised as in the common earthworm. (Image credit: University of Illinois Extension, Technical Forestry Bulletin NRES-1603)

What should I do if I Find Asian Jumping Worms in my Garden?

  • Prevention is key:
    • Currently there are no great curative management options available for home gardeners with existing jumping worm infestations. Therefore, prevention is your best line of defense. Some preventative measures are:
      • Keep tools clean. Do not use tools from an infested spot in an uninfected spot without disinfecting in between.
      • Buy compost, mulch, soil from reputable places. Before you buy, ask what measures are taken to avoid Asian jumping worms.
      • When purchasing plants, buy from reputable sources and carefully inspect the root ball. If you suspect contamination, consider cleaning all soil off new plants. Purchasing bare-rooted plants is another option.
  • Inspect and Monitor:
    • Regularly check your garden and compost for signs of jumping worms. If you have them, hand pick and destroy them when you find them. Seal them in a plastic bag and throw them in the trash. Alternatively, use a bucket of soapy water to drown them in and then dispose of them. Avoid using a dry bucket, as they can easily climb out of a five gallon bucket without problem. By hand picking, you are reducing the adult population which will eventually decrease the number of egg-carrying cocoons in the landscape.
  • Predators:
    • Encourage more wildlife. According to a social media group I belong to on Asian jumping worms, many birds such as Robins, Bluejays, Grackles, Turkeys, Chickens eat the worms. Earth snakes, moles, and mice have also been reported to eat them.
  • Heat Treatment:
    • Jumping worms and their cocoons are sensitive to high temperatures. The University of Wisconsin – Madison conducted research which shows that neither worms nor cocoons can survive at 104°F or higher for over three days. Compost piles, under appropriate conditions, can reach this temperature.
  • Share Information:
    • Share your knowledge, experiences, successes, and failures with fellow gardeners. Raising awareness and sharing information can help combat the spread of these invasive worms.
  • Prevent Spread:
    • Avoid moving soil, mulch, or plants from infested areas.

We encourage you to share this post with others to help educate our community

Resources and Additional Information