My Summer Adventure Growing Compact Vegetables

by Martha Keehner Engelke, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM

For several years I have tried to grow vegetables. My previous vegetable garden was on the side of my house and I didn’t see it unless I had a reason to visit that side of the house. There was only one small window that looked over the garden and most of the time, the shades were closed. When the heat of summer became intense, I “forgot” to water my vegetables. With irregular watering, my veggies often looked parched and burned. They withered and then they became diseased. By the end of July, I was sad and frustrated by vegetable gardening.

This year I tried something different, after reading about compact vegetables on this blog, I bought some at the 2026 Durham County Extension Master Gardener Plant Sale. I put them on my deck where I could see them every day from my living room window. This year, my plants have been healthy, I have watered them consistently and I have enjoyed the fruits of my labor.

What are Compact Vegetables and how do you grow them?

Compact vegetables are specific cultivars that bear smaller fruit than their larger counterparts. Compact or patio tomatoes are usually determinate. They don’t give you tomatoes all summer and the fruit is smaller ranging in size from a cherry tomato to a tomato that is about 2-4 inches in diameter. Cucumbers, peppers and eggplant are usually a bush variety. They grow to a fixed size and need very little in the way of staking or trimming.

But there are some problems. Plants grown in pots don’t have a large earth buffer so they are susceptible to: rapid loss of moisture (They need to be watered daily and sometimes twice a day); nutrient depletion (this is related to the frequent watering); and root restriction (it’s important to use a pot that is big enough for the plant when it is mature and bearing fruit) not just when you plant it.

I planted each of my veggies in a container that was an appropriate size for the plant (8-12 inches in diameter and 6-10 inches deep). I washed the pots and disinfected them. I used a commercially available organic, moisture control mix that included compost. After planting, I sprinkled Osmocote® on the top and for 6 weeks I fertilized them with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks. I have read that it might be better to continue to fertilize with liquid fertilizer during the entire growing season because nutrients can be depleted easily. But, since we were in a drought, I thought that fertilizing the plants might damage the roots.1. I watered them daily and about two months after planting, I noticed that some of the plants (tomatoes and cucumbers especially) had lost some of their soil so I added soil and a bit of compost. The pots are on my deck which gets sun from about noon to 6 pm.

How did it turn out?

Quick Snack Cucumbers-This plant was the first to bear fruit. I have harvested about 20 mini (2-4 inches) cucumbers. They are delicious. There are virtually no seeds and because they are so small and the skin is thin, I didn’t peel them. I enjoyed them in salads and as a readily available snack.

Quick snack cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is known for its compact, patio-friendly growth and ability to produce crisp, bite-sized fruit without needing a pollinator (parthenocarpic). (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Fairy Tale Eggplant– My plant has yielded about 40 eggplants so far and there are more on the bush. However, they are very small, 2-3 inches when ripe. For a while, I thought they would get bigger so I let them grow to about 5 inches and they became pale with a bitter taste. When they are ripe they are delicious with no seeds. They can be baked grilled or roasted. I sauteed them in olive oil with some tomatoes, onion and basil, and topped everything with parmesan cheese. Yum!

Fairy Tale Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is very small and the plant at its peak is covered in the fruit. However, in the second photo the eggplants at the top were over ripe and bitter. While I didn’t have enough eggplant to make a full meal, I did use them several time to make a tasty side dish. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Sweet Confetti Peppers-My plant is loaded with these but only a few have ripened. When they are growing they are green then yellow. They look ready to eat but they have little taste and they are hard until they are fully ripe. They are ripe when they turn red or they are red striped. At that point they taste like a sweet bell pepper.

Sweet Confetti Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is a lovely plant with variegated leaves. The photo on the right shows the maturation of the fruit from green to red. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Purple Tiger Peppers-This plant is very ornamental. The leaves are variegated and range from green to purple. The plant is covered with 1 inch peppers that turn from green, to purple to red. They are rated at 5,000-10,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). In comparison, a jalapeno pepper is 2,000-8,000 SHUs. I like this as an ornamental plant but it is too hot for me to eat (I know many people will disagree). I tried to reduce the heat by removing the seeds and membranes (the Capsaicin, the chemical that makes peppers spicy is in the membrane but this is attached to the seed). This was difficult and tedious because the peppers are so small.

Purple Tiger Peppers (Capsicum annuum) are an heirloom variety and can be used as an addition to salsa or other spicy dishes but if you don’t like the heat, they are a beautiful ornamental plant. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Orange Hat Tomatoes -This is a Russian heirloom variety. It is considered to be a micro-dwarf determinate tomato and it only grows to 6-9 inches tall. I got about 10 small tomatoes and then I noticed that that they seemed to stop ripening. These tomatoes really don’t like a lot of heat. This was the time period when Durham was experiencing temperatures near or above 100 degrees every day.

Red Hat Tomatoes (Oranzhevaja Shapochka) are self-pollinating and you can encourage pollination by shaking the main stem. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Bush Early Girl-This determinate tomato grew to about two feet tall. At first, it was loaded with green/yellow tomatoes in clumps of 4-6. A few of the tomatoes fused. I worried that I needed to trim off some of the tomatoes but I consulted an experienced vegetable grower and was encouraged to leave them alone. I have harvested 6 small tomatoes and they were quite good. There are several more tomatoes on the vine but they are not ripening as fast as the earlier ones. A few have developed the beginning of blossom end rot. I consulted with our excellent Extension Agent Ashley Troth who is an expert on growing tomatoes. She said:

“in general tomatoes really suffer with the heat and struggle to set fruit. Even with fruit forming, extreme heat can prevent them from ripening properly (and so the fruit stays green longer). The blossom end rot could be from lack of water, not because you didn’t water enough, but because things just dry out so quickly in pots in extreme heat you can still have problems.”

Bush Early Girl tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are known for their early fruit that tastes like the fresh tomato you ate as a child (at least it does to me). The last picture shows how beautiful they are when they ripen properly. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

What did I Learn?

This was a very positive experience for me and I think that I am hooked on these tiny vegetables with great flavor. I had to adjust my expectations on the size and amount of harvest but for me and my husband, this was very manageable and fun. Heading out to the deck and cutting off enough eggplant to combine with my tomatoes and eating my own cucumbers in my salad gave me a sense of accomplishment with not too much work. I will be buying more at the 2027 Durham County Extension Plant Sale and I hope you will join me. The sale will be held on April 10, 2027. Be sure to save the date and look for more details in the future.

Note: 1. According to NC State Extension, you should avoid fertilizing plants during a drought because it encourages new growth, which increases the plant’s demand for water and makes it more vulnerable to heat stress.

Additional Reading and Resources

NC State Extension provides excellent advice on how to care for plants grown in pots.

The University of Minnesota Extension Office gives step by step instruction on how to start your vegetable garden in a container.

Shortlink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7MQ

Be Your Own Plant Detective: Spot Invasives

By Lisa Nadler and Martha Keehner Engelke, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Sometimes a plant becomes a rapid spreader working its way into places where you would rather it not go. Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is an example of this. It is a vigorous twining vine that is native to the eastern United States. It can grow 10-20 feet high in a season. It spreads aggressively. But, because it is native to our ecosystem, it doesn’t displace other native plants in the area. It is not invasive. In contrast, its “cousin” Japanese or Chinese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), a native of Asia, is capable of growing over plants and smothering them. It can displace native species by outcompeting them for light, space, water and nutrients.

The term invasive applies only to non-native plants; invasive implies a negative effect on native plants and animals. On the other hand, native plants that establish quickly in your garden and spread readily are more appropriately termed “aggressive.”  Aggressive native plants generally are species adapted to recently disturbed sites where they establish and spread quickly but give way to other native plants within a few years”.1

So, how do you tell the difference?

Two of the pictures above are Lonicera sempervirens (native) and two are Lonicera japonica (invasive). Can you tell the difference? Answers are at the end of the post. (Image credit: Top left: Debbie Roos; Top Right: Lucy Bradley, CC-BY 4.0; Bottom left: Hope Duckworth CC- BY 4.0; Bottom right: Chris Kreussing CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Lisa Nadler’s adventure to distinguish a native plant from an invasive plant is enlightening. It is an excellent illustration of how two plants that seem similar and are in the same family are vastly different in the impact they will have on your garden.

Plant Detective: Lisa Nadler

On a recent visit to Cocoa Cinnamon Container Garden2, Lisa Nadler made a discovery. Invasive Chinese or Sericea Lespedeza (Lespedeza cuneata) was in one of the painted pots. Lespedeza is in the Fabaceae, or bean family.

The picture on the left shows Lespedeza cuneata growing in a pot at Cocoa Cinnamon. In the photo on the right Deb Pilkington holds the plant after it is removed illustrating its long tap root (Image credit: Lisa Nadler)

So, what is Lespedeza and how did they know it is bad? There are both native and invasive Lespedeza plants and they can look similar. So, you need to know what to look for to know which ones to yank and which ones to leave.

Sericea lespedeza (Lespedeza cuneata) is a warm-season, perennial legume with many erect, leafy branches. It also goes by the name of Chinese Bush Clover. It was introduced from Asia in 1896 for erosion control, livestock forage and wildlife cover.  But, it has no natural diseases or insects to manage it here and it is now listed as a Rank 1-Severe Threat in NC.

According to the NC Plant Toolbox, it may be allelopathic, producing substances that chemically inhibit the growth of other plants. It forms extensive monocultures and develops an extensive seed bank in the soil, ensuring its long residence at a site. Its high tannin content makes it unpalatable to livestock and most native wildlife. So, not a very good addition for wildlife feed. It can grow up to 6 feet tall and once you know what it looks like, you’ll start seeing it everywhere, especially on road sides.

But how can you tell it from the native Bush clover species, Lespedeza virginica and Lespedeza capitata? Here are some clues.

Bloom Color (which wasn’t helpful in this case because it wasn’t in bloom.)

Lespedeza cuneata has white blooms with a touch of purple. The native Lespedeza virginica has purple flowers. But… (isn’t there always a but…) the other common native, Lespedeza capitata, has white flowers but with a redder touch.

The picture on the left is Lespedeza cuneata which is invasive. In the middle is Lespedeza virginica, a native and on the right is Lespedeza capitata, another native. (Image credit: Anita 363 CC-BY-NC 2.0; CC-BY-SA-2.0; CC-BY-SA 2.0)

Leaves

Okay, so now look at the leaves. The Lespedeza cuneata (the bad guy) has leaves that are more rounded at the end with a single tooth. Also, the veins are straight and easily visible. The leaves of the Lespedeza virginica and Lespedeza capitata (the good guys) are pointier at the end, usually have a less prominent tooth and the veins are curvier (I’m sure there is a specific botanical name for that…).

Left to right: Lespedeza cuneata; Lespedeza virginica; Lespedeza capitata (Image credit: Hamilton Native Outpost; Bonnie Semmling CC-BY-4.0; Missouri plants. com).

There are other plant families that include both native and invasive species so it is important to always be on the lookout. The Poaceae family includes invasive and native grasses. The aquatic common reed (Phragmites australis), is native to Europe but very invasive in NC. It spreads rapidly and forms dense stands. Within the Rosaceae family we find native plants but also the highly invasive Multiflora Rose (Rosa multiflora). Plants in the Oleaceae Family are popular ornamentals and there are some natives but invasive species like Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) and Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia) should not be planted. Autumn olive was introduced for wildlife habitat and ornamental purposes but has become invasive. Finally, we have the Fabaceae family. While Wisteria frutescens is a native, Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) are invasive vines in North Carolina. 

So be on the lookout and be your own plant detective!

Answers to quiz: The picture on the upper left and lower right are native (Lonicera sempervirens) the other two are Invasive (Lonicera japonica).

Note 1: This article by Christoper Moorman and Dr. Lucy Bradley, summarizes the differences between aggressive and invasive plants. https://gardening.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-create-wildlife-friendly-landscapes/why-landscapes-for-wildlife/invasive-species/

Note 2: Cocoa Cinnamon is a demonstration garden located at 420 West Geer Street, Durham, NC 2770. The Durham EMGs provide oversight and it has been an amazing source of information on best practices for growing plants in containers. Here are a few examples of previous posts inspired by the Cocoa Cinnamon project:

Winter pruning of “Little Miss Figgy”: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5Xr

“Little Miss Figgy in the City” https://wp.me/p2nIr1-50Z

Give a thought to the pot: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-4sZ

Pot Luck: Adventures in Urban Container Gardening: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2jZ

Pot Luck: A Wildlife Ecosystem in the Middle of a City? : https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2tn

Another series on invasive plants and alternatives by Jeanne Arnts, was recently published on the blog:

From Beloved to Invasive: How does it happen? https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5l3

Replacing Invasive Plants: Suggestions for Beneficial Alternatives https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5CJ

Additional Reading and Resources

For more information on plant diversity check out this article from the NC Botanical Gardens. https://ncbg.unc.edu/2025/03/06/what-are-the-most-diverse-plant-families-and-why-part-one-the-asters

The NC Native Plant Society has good information on identifying native vs. invasive plants. https://ncwildflower.org/invasive-exotic-species-list/

How do invasive plants affect our forests? Here is the answer: ttps://content.ces.ncsu.edu/invasive-plants-and-your-forests

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-68z