By Gary Crispell, North Carolina Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

To paraphrase a Hallmark card, or maybe it was a Lexus commercial, this was a December best forgotten. Cold, dry (for the third month in a row), and complicated by a household with major orthopedic issues. Here’s hoping 2026 is kinder.

The Accidental Cottage Garden is sleeping now (with all the stems left intact, of course). If either my mother or her mother were still around, the former would be worried and the latter downright apoplectic. Times change, and so do gardening practices. That said, I will need to trim a few plants that are intruding onto the sidewalk. My apologies in advance to the insects affected.

January is a bleak month in the garden. There isn’t much that should be done, and even less that’s pleasant to do given the weather. I may choose to stay indoors with a stack of gardening books and the occasional escapist novel. ( One does need a break now and then.)

Here’s your January garden to-do list. Try not to do it all in one day.

LAWN CARE:
Keep accumulated leaves off turf areas. Most leaves should be finished falling by now, which makes the job easier. Use them as mulch in garden beds – do not send them to the landfill.

While you’re at it, think about whether you could reduce, or eliminate, some of your lawn. Grass is often the most expensive planting in the yard (unless you’re growing a serious collection of tea roses) and one of the least ecologically sustainable. Just saying.

FERTILIZING:
There’s not much to do this month unless you’re looking for a place to use wood ashes. They can be spread on vegetable gardens, bulb beds, or non–acid-loving shrubs if your soil pH is low (below 6.0).

PLANTING:
Asparagus crowns can be planted now. Trees and shrubs can also be planted or transplanted. Remember: even in cold weather and without leaves, plants still need water.

Left to right: Asparagus can grown from one-year-old roots, called crowns. Crowns grow vertically and horizontally. This is an example of ‘Purple Passion’ asparagus crowns. (Image credit: NC Cooperative Extension (osiristhe CC BY-ND-2.0). Tender young asparagus shoots coming out of the ground (Image credit: twoellis/Bigstock.com)

PRUNING:
Sharpen your hand pruners and loppers and get to work. This is a perfect legitimate excuse to get out of the house. Studies show that pruning cuts made in January often heal more quickly than those made later in the year.

Remove branches that overhang the house, shade key areas of the garden, or are misshapen or overgrown. Prune branches individually to shape the plant. Unless you’re trying to recreate Buckingham Palace, Versailles, or the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, leave the power hedge clippers in the garage. Shearing is rarely the best option.

If you must shear, be sure the finished plant is wider at the base than at the top. This allows sunlight to reach the lower leaves and keeps the plant full from top to bottom.

When removing entire branches, make cuts just outside the branch collar – the flared area where the branch meets the trunk.

Branch collar shown at white arrows on a sycamore. Branch bark ridge shown at yellow arrows. Gold arrows show correct angle of cut along the dashed red lines. (Image from: NC State Extention Publications. )

SPRAYING:
Did some uninvited guests come indoors with your houseplants this fall? You’re not alone. On a warm day, take plants outside for a light application of horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. And yes – read the label.

A Mealybug nymph and a Mealybug extended family or potential “Lessees” on your houseplants.
(Image credit: US National Collection of Scale Insects Photographs Archive, USDA ARS, http://www.insectimages.org and https://www.flickr.com/photos/scotnelson/)

HINTS FOR STAYING WARM AND DRY UNTIL MARCH:
Dress in layers when you go outside, because you will go outside. You’re a gardener.
Seed catalogs are excellent winter reading. One favorite is Southern Seed Exchange; if it grows in the South, they probably carry it (including, paradoxically, seedless watermelon).
Install a squirrel-resistant bird feeder (note: “squirrel-proof” is an oxymoron).
Search online for North Carolina native plants and consider adding something new to your landscape. Start planning what you want to buy at our annual plant sale which will be on April 11, 2026 this year. And for more inspiration come to our Plant Festival on March 28th 2026. You will learn so much about particular plants, community partners, and we give away free plants!
Make soup from garden produce you preserved earlier in the year and enjoy warm beverages.

Stay warm. March is only two months away.

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Additional Resources and Information

• Using wood ash in the garden: UGA Cooperative extension. //site.extension.uga.edu/fannin-gilmer/2020/12/using-wood-ash-in-the-garden/
• More on growing Asparagus from NCSU: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/asparagus
• Find whatever plant you want on the NCSU Plant Tool Box: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/
• Winter is the time for pruning, Northern Virgina Master Gardener’s bulletin: https://mgnv.org/public-education/winter-is-the-time-for-pruning/
• General Pruning techniques: Pruning Trees and Shrubs: NCSU: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/general-pruning-techniques
• Provide Nesting Habitat for Native Bees Through Plant Stems in Your Garden: By NC Extension Agent of Chatham County, Debbie Roos: //growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/2025/02/provide-nesting-habitat-for-native-bees-through-plant-stems-in-your-garden/
• Nesting and Overwintering Habitat for Pollinators and Other Beneficial Insects from Xerces Foundation: https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/18-014.pdf
• Garden Cleanup for Pollinators: Trim Perennial Stems in Their First Winter: NCSU Publication: //content.ces.ncsu.edu/garden-cleanup-for-pollinators-trim-perennial-stems-in-their-first-winter
• Identification of the bees of North Carolina: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/the-bees-of-north-carolina-identification-guide

Edited by Marcia Kirinus, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6U5

By Kay Pearlstein, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

We’re about two months into sharing our homes with our tropical friends – our houseplants. Ideally, they were brought indoors around Halloween, once nighttime temperatures dipped below 45°F. About ten days before that move, leaves and soil should have been thoroughly cleaned to remove insects eager to hitch a ride indoors. A soil rinse of one part hydrogen peroxide to three parts water works well when pests are suspected, and leaves can be wiped on both sides with mild soap and water.

Before bringing your plant indoors, wipe it down with a damp cloth and mild soap, as shown on this Schefflera arboricola (umbrella plant). You can also repeat this during the winter to remove dust as it builds up. (Image credit: canva)

All summer long, these plants were living the good life on decks and patios, enjoying spa-like conditions similar to their native tropical understory habitat. Warm temperatures, filtered light, and the balmy humidity of a North Carolina summer kept them lush and green. They looked great the day you carried them inside.

They looked great the day you brought them all back in. But as the days get shorter and winter sets in, extra care is needed. (Image credit: F. D. Richards CC-BY-SA, Plant Toolbox)

But do they look as good today as they did outdoors? Is your Dracaena still plush? Is your Schefflera pushing out umbrella-like new growth? Are the fronds of your ponytail palm arching gracefully from the top?

As we near the end of the year, many houseplants have now spent weeks living in the unnaturally dry indoor environment we call home. How are they really doing? If your answer is, “Sort of OK, but I wish they didn’t look so punky,” you’re not alone.

Successfully overwintering houseplants comes down to managing three common stressors: improper lighting, improper watering, and an unsuitable indoor environment.

Light: One of The Most Important Elements But Hardest To Provide

Winter sunlight is limited. Days are shorter, the sun sits lower in the sky, and its rays are weaker. Indoors, light is often inadequate. Just like outdoor annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees, tropical houseplants have specific light preferences, and their natural position in the rainforest offers clues about what they need.

Many tropical plants have large leaves that act as solar collectors, adjusting their position through phototaxis – leaning toward light when it is scarce and away from it when it is too intense. Plants that naturally grow on the rainforest floor, such as Calathea and Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant), tolerate lower light levels and can adapt to dimmer corners, making them good choices for low-light rooms or novice plant parents.

Left: Calathea with flowers. (Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr CC BY 2.0 NCSU Plant Tool Box) Right: A variegated cultivar of Sansevieria trifasciata (namely ‘Laurentii’), (Image Credit: Martin Olsson BY-SA 3.0)

Other plants, including Dracaena fragrans (Corn Plant) and Beaucarnea recurvata (Ponytail Palm), prefer bright but indirect light – often the hardest condition to find indoors. That ideal spot is rarely the sunny windowsill; more often, it’s exactly where your favorite chair happens to be.

Left: Dracaena fragrans  wants more filtered light than your snake plant. (Image Credit: Cindy ChristianCC BY 4.0Pitt County Arboretum NCSU Plant Toolbox) Right: Beaucarnea recurvata (Ponytail Palm), (Image Credit: Maja DumatCC BY 4.0 NCSU Plant Toolbox)

Succulents, adapted to dry desert climates, thrive in bright, direct light and perform best on a sunny, south-facing windowsill. Plants with vibrant foliage, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), need plenty of bright light to maintain their color – but direct sun can scorch their leaves, causing browning and curling.

Succulents or water-retaining plants, such as this Jelly Bean Plant Sedum rubrotinctum are often grown as Houseplants (Image Credit: JJ Harrison  BY-SA 2.5) Croton, Codiaeum variegatum with its electric red foliage (Image Credit: Kathleen Moore CC BY 2.0 NCSU Plant Toolbox)

Rotate plants a quarter turn each week to encourage even growth. Moving indoors from bright outdoor conditions can also trigger “light shock.” Without enough light to support bushy growth and rich green color, plants may yellow or shed older leaves. Some leaf drop is normal, but if it becomes excessive, consider supplementing natural light with artificial sources such as LED or fluorescent grow lights. With many options available, it is worth finding a light that suits both your space and your plants.

Water: Less Is More in Winter

Overwatering is one of the most common and deadly mistakes made with houseplants. Indoors, growth slows significantly, and water needs drop just as dramatically. This is not summer, garden-hose watering; winter care requires restraint.

Before watering, clear the soil surface of fallen leaves, twigs, or other debris left over from summer. Allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry completely between waterings. A slight wilt is acceptable and often preferable to constantly wet soil. Use the finger test: push your finger an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry, it is time to water. If moisture is present, wait and check again in a few days.

Plant roots need oxygen to survive. When soil remains saturated, oxygen is displaced, roots suffocate, and rot can develop. Rotting roots cannot take up water, even when plenty is present. Always empty saucers or trays beneath pots so roots are not left sitting in standing water.

For plants in smaller, easily moved containers, an effective way to re-oxygenate the root zone is to water thoroughly in the sink. Once water flows freely from the drainage holes, place the pot on a dish rack or drainboard and allow it to drip for 20–30 minutes. As excess water drains away, oxygen is pulled back into the soil pores. Larger pots require regular monitoring to ensure water is not collecting unnoticed in their drainage trays.

Plants will also signal when they are too dry. Wilting, slight drooping, or dull leaf color are common indicators. If caught early, a deep, thorough watering may revive the plant. However, if drought stress has lasted too long, recovery may not be possible, and decline may continue despite best efforts.

Indoor Environment: Everything Else.

Monstera sp. leaves (Image credit canva)

Beyond light and water, the indoor environment itself plays a significant role in houseplant health. Most houseplants, tropical by origin, are adapted to the warm, humid conditions of rainforests. While North Carolina summers often mimic those conditions, winter indoors is a very different story – it is much drier.

Bathrooms and kitchens tend to offer higher humidity and can better resemble a plant’s natural environment. For plants placed elsewhere, grouping them together helps create a shared microclimate by increasing humidity through transpiration. While misting adds moisture to the air briefly, it evaporates quickly; a humidifier provides more consistent benefits.

Airflow is another important consideration. Dry, warm air from heating vents can be especially damaging, causing leaves to dry, crinkle, or drop. If possible, move plants away from vents or use vent deflectors to redirect airflow. Leaves exposed to constant hot or dry air often show stress first.

Temperature stability is equally important. Ideally, the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures should be no more than about 10°F. Cold drafts from doors or windows and sudden blasts of hot air can damage plant cells, disrupting the movement of water and nutrients. Some plants are sensitive even to the chill radiating from cold window glass.

A quote from the University of Missouri captures this challenge well: “There are no houseplants in nature.” Plants we call houseplants are simply species that horticulturists have identified as being able to tolerate the constraints of indoor life. From Victorian-era parlor palms to today’s homes and offices, success has always depended on matching the right plant to the right conditions.

Indoor plant stress is rarely caused by a single factor. More often, it results from a combination of poor light, uneven watering, low humidity, unstable temperatures, and inadequate air circulation. Paying attention to these environmental details and adjusting where possible goes a long way toward keeping houseplants healthy through the winter months.

The Reward

Caring for houseplants through the winter months may feel tedious at times, but the rewards are well worth the effort. Healthy plants bring life, color, and a sense of calm to our indoor spaces- benefits that are especially welcome during the darker months of the year. Most houseplants also contribute to improved indoor air quality. Peace Lily, Spider Plant, Prayer Plant, and Christmas Cactus are among those known for helping filter indoor air.

Plants help make indoor spaces cozy. (Imge credit: canva)

For a few months each year, these tropicals live alongside us indoors. They make our lives better for it. If we can keep them healthy by observing and adjusting their indoor environment, we can gleefully release them to their preferred state of outdoor living when warmer weather returns.

Thank you to all our readers in 2025! We loved sharing the garden magic with you and can’t wait for more in 2026.

Resources and Additional Information on Houseplants:

We will be selling houseplants at our April 11, 2026 Plant Sale!. You don’t want to miss it.

• North Carolina State Plant Toolbox: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/

• Using hydrogen Peroxide to kill fungus gnats in soil: Cornell Cooperative Extention: https://allegany.cce.cornell.edu/gardening/pest-management/a-spooky-houseplant-pest-fungus-gnats

• University of Missouri, Integrated Pest Management, “Houseplant Problems” January 2019: https://ipm.missouri.edu/meg/2019/1/houseplantProblems/

• Chicago Botanic Garden, Smart Gardner “Bringing Houseplants Indoors”. chicagobotanicgarden.org

• The Spruce ”Winter Habits that could be killing Your Houseplants – and how to Fix them Fast,” February 2025. www.TheSpruce.com/thing-that-are-killng-your-houseplants-this-winter

• Missouri Botanical Garden, “Problems Common to Many Indoor Plants” www.missouribotanicalgarden.org

• history.com  “How Houseplants Became a Historian Era Status Symbol”

• University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Nebraska Extension Education “Winter Care of Indoor Plants” https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=university+of+nebraska-Lincoln+Nebrask+extension+education&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

• North Carolina Cooperative Extension, Successful Gardner, 2000 “Houseplants Help Improve Indoor Air Quality”, February https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=northcarolina+extension+successful+gardners&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Edited by Marcia Kirinus, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6RZ