Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season”

With Japanese Beetles showing up everywhere from ornamentals to fruit trees, now is the perfect time to revisit this great post by Kathryn Hamilton. Stay out of the heat for a while and learn what you can do to protect your plants – your roses will thank you!

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by Kathryn Hamilton, EMGV     

skeletonized squash leaf
A skeletonized rhubarb leaf. (Image credit Kathryn Hamilton)

At this time of year, Japanese Beetle “Season,” my favorite gardening tool is a plastic fork. When disrupted, beetles are supposed to fold their hind legs and fall. You are supposed to be able catch them with a container of soapy water. In my experience that’s true only about half the time. Sometimes they must be pointed in the right direction; other times they need to be fished out from between the layers of a rose petal, and at still other times, they must literally be pried off the flower. Apparently, even Japanese beetles have a survival instinct!

Japanese beetles (Popilla japonica) are attracted to the foliage, fruits, and flowers of nearly 300 different plants, among them: roses, crape myrtle, hibiscus, purple-leafed plums, grape leaves, and geraniums.  If you are a Piedmont gardener, chances are very good that you have encountered these pests in recent weeks.

The good news is that Japanese beetles are unlikely to destroy established trees or shrubs. Skeletonized leaves and flowers will grow back once the beetles disappear. The better news is that within 30 – 45 days of their onset they will be gone.

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Here are some takeaways to help you cope with Japanese Beetle “Season.”
1. Only one generation occurs each year. They typically emerge in early June and are gone by mid-July. You may see an isolated beetle during the rest of the year but ground zero is late May until early July.

2. Beetles emerge when the temperature is “just right.” Scientifically this equates to approximately 1,000 growing degree days. (Here’s a scientific explanation of growing degree days.)  If the weather heats up faster beetles are likely to appear sooner. Weather conditions also determine the grub population, their larval stage. Damper weather typically means more grubs. More grubs mean more beetles.

3. Japanese beetle traps should not be considered control devices. Designed to attract beetles, rather than trap them, they can increase the beetle population in your back yard. Furthermore, if not emptied every couple of days, the beetles will rot inside, releasing an ammonia which repels them. Instead of going into the trap, they are likely to tap your hibiscus.

Beetles in every corner of beat up rose
There are at least eight beetles in this “trap.”
(Image Credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

4. Japanese beetles aggregate in response to odor released by damaged plants and a pheromone released by female beetles. I usually cut the least-damaged roses and leave one or two that have been attacked. They are always one of my best beetle-harvest sites.

5. Where practical, cover the plant with light netting.

6. Just say “no” to things they don’t like. But who could imagine a garden without roses?

7. Rose experts advise picking your roses and bringing them inside. They can beautify your property the rest of the year.

8. Another tip, before cutting a rose to bring inside, be sure the sepals have fallen or the rose will not bloom.

Rose closed sepals
Because the sepals haven’t fallen, this rose, if cut, will not open. (Image Credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

9. You can, of course use insecticides, a discussion of which is outside of this posting. However, any insecticide will have some negative effect on other insects, including those which are beneficial. The North Carolina Agricultural Chemicals Manual lists pesticides and their relative safety for bees. Should you opt for an insecticide, prune all the flowers first. There are label restrictions against using most insecticides on flowering plants and when pollinators are present. Read the label for detailed restrictions.

10. Insecticides only treat the exposed petals. So, if a bud opens throughout the day, the unprotected petals are just another meal. And, unless they are systemic, insecticides must be reapplied after a rain.

My bottom line strategy: I cut my best roses and leave a few that have already been attacked as traps. Several times a day, I am single-mindedly devoted to search and destroy missions, first dumping the beetles into a container of water soapy water then  finishing with a flush down the toilet.

Japanese Beetles are most sluggish in early morning.
(Image Credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

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Further Reading:

Japanese Beetles on Ornamental Landscape Plants

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/japanese-beetle-1

Japanese Beetle

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/japanese-beetle

Insects: Japanese Beetles

https://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/tobacco-pest-management-insects-japanese-beetles/

Specimen Spotlight: Mountain Mints

by Melinda Heigel, EMGV

Mountain Mint still putting on a show in September.
(Image credit: Melinda Heigel)

Merely mentioning the word mint to gardeners may send them running in the opposite direction for fear of being overtaken right where they stand by this pungent, intoxicating herb. While plants in the Mentha genus such as spearmint (Mentha spicata) and peppermint (Mentha x piperita) may invoke pleasant memories of chewing leaves on lazy afternoons in your grandmother’s garden and definitely have an honored place in the culinary world, their invasive growth habits can show little respect for boundaries and quickly become problematic in the garden.

Well…how about mountain mints? I really only became aware of these plants within the last few years. With the interest in pollinator-friendly gardening on the rise, I began hearing horticultural experts sing mountain mints’ (Pycnanthemum spp.) praises as one of their top picks for the landscape.

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Characteristics

A host of pollinators including butterflies and moths are drawn to the plant’s enticing nectar.
(Image Credit: Judy Gallagher CC BY 4.0)

Mountain mints are native to the Eastern US and grow in all areas of North Carolina. In their naturally occurring habitats, you’ll often find them growing in moist open fields, at the edges of forests, and in lower elevations despite the alpine-sounding name. Both the culinary mints we know and mountain mints are in the same scientific family (Lamiaceae), but they are different genera —Mentha and Pycnanthemum, respectively. However, both share a minty or thyme-like fragrance when crushed. Aside from smelling great, these plants have a lot going for them. Mountain mints are known for their rabbit and deer-resistant properties. Mountain mints are also super pollinator attractors, with their nectar drawing a host of beneficial insects. From June until September, look for scores of native bees, honey bees, wasps, moths, and butterflies buzzing around this plant. In a 2013 Penn State Extension study testing 86 native species and cultivars, clustered mountain mint attracted the most diverse group of pollinators of all the plants tested.1

Most mountain mints have bracts much like our beloved North Carolina state flower the dogwood blossom (Cornus florida), some silver in appearance. The plant’s small flowers range from white to light pink to lavender in the compact center of the plant (called a cyme) and give a subtle ornamental effect. A few as outlined below can offer more showy flowers. These perennial and deciduous plants have a mounding upright habit and generally reach a mature size of 3 feet tall by 3 feet wide. And let me tell you, this plant is versatile. Mountain mint is excellent for naturalizing a larger area, in a cottage garden, for native plant gardens, or even mixed in a perennial border or bed. And while it flowers best in full sun, it can also grow in part sun to part shade. It’s typically not picky about soil either; it only wants good drainage. Its dense growth habit means it can serve as a great weed suppressor. Mountain mints can be grown by either seeds or plant division. While not as invasive as true mints, it can spread out over time at a typical rate of 4-6 inches annually. Keeping it in check is fairly easy, though. If the plant gets too big, dividing or simply severing part of the plant’s rhizome root system with a spade is enough to rein it in each year.

Detail of silvery bracts surrounding compact clusters known as cymes with delicate lavender flowers. (Image Credit: Cathy Dewitt CC BY 4.0)

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Types of Mountain Mint

While there are over 20 species of Pycnanthemum and many can be found in North Carolina, here are a few examples to whet your appetite for this pollinator-friendly plant. The following mountain mints can often be found for sale these days at local nurseries, especially those that have a focus on native plants.

Narrow-leafed Mountain Mint (P. tenuifolium) and close up of its flowers. The North Carolina Botanical Garden crowned this species its 2019 Wildflower of the Year. The needle-like leaves lend great texture and the clustered white flowers are a stand-out addition to the garden. (Image Credit: (Left) Cyndy Sims Parr CC-BY-SA 2.0; (Right) Dan Mullen CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Hoary Mountain Mint (P. incanum) leaves, bracts, and flowers. This species gets its name from short white hairs that cover its stems. It has a lovely silver appearance that makes you think the plant could have been lightly dusted with snow or powdered sugar on both leaves and bracts. The wider leaves are a good identification guide. (Image Credit: (Left) S.B. Johnny CC BY-SA 3.0); (Right) Tom Potterfield CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)

Appalachian Mountain Mint (P. flexuosum) with its impressive architectural blooms and the distinct leaves. This type of mountain mint is found most frequently in the Piedmont to the coast in North Carolina. It sports more flowers than other Pycnanthemum species that are white to lavender in color and can be used for cut flowers. These impressive blooms turn into lovely dried seed heads if left to overwinter in the garden. This species is a larval host plant for the gray hairstreak butterfly (Strymon melinus) and supports the wavy-lined Emerald moth (Synchlora aerata). (Image Credit: (Left) Debbie Roos; (Right) Leaves, Nate Hartley CC BY-NC 4.0).

Blunt Mountain Mint (P. muticum) is also known as short-toothed mountain mint. This species is often less drought tolerant than other Pycnanthemum and prefers moist to medium well-drained soils. It also supports wavy-lined emerald moth larva, and its native habitat is often woodland areas and thickets. Its dark green leaves can also appear sugar-coated when planted en masse. (Image Credits: (Right) Fritz Flohr Reynolds CC BY-SA 4.0; (Left) Flower and Bee (Wake County, NC)Cathy Dewitt CC BY 4.0)

Make room in your garden for mountain mints! They are plants worth discovering.

Notes

1– Ellis, K. 2013. Identifying and Promoting Pollinator-Rewarding Herbaceous Perennial Plant Species. Final Report to Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture. 16pp.

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Resources and Additional Information

North Carolina Botanical Garden’s 2019 Wildflower of the Year: Narrow Leaf Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum tenufolium)

https://ncbg.unc.edu/2019/05/30/2019-wildflower-of-the-year-narrow-leaf-mountain-mint/

Rutgers University’s New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station

https://njaes.rutgers.edu/plant-of-the-month/pycnanthemum.php

NCSU’s Plant Toolbox site on Mountain Mints and excellent video starring the Narrow Leaf Mountain Mint

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/pycnanthemum/

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/pycnanthemum/

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