Plant Detective: Identifying Fungal Rust on Eastern Redcedar

By Wendy Diaz, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

Evidence of Cedar-Quince Rust on Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana)

I noticed a bright orange coating on the peeling bark of the branches and trunk of an Eastern Redcedar shrub (Juniperus virginiana) along my backyard property boundary during a routine walk around my yard in the early spring last year.

Orange swellings between peeling and on bark of Eastern Redcedar branch on March 13, 2025. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Many years ago, I transplanted it along with several other volunteer Eastern Redcedar seedlings, to create a windbreak and evergreen screen when the hardwood forest behind our property was developed into a subdivision. I knew at the time it wasn’t an ideal location for these sun-loving natives[1]; under the shade of a large White Oak but they did survive and slowly grew from 4 inches to several feet high. 

View of backyard Eastern Redcedar hedge. Area circled in red denotes the diseased cedar shrub planted behind the white oak tree which was diseased and later removed. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

The Eastern Redcedar with the orange coating was located in the most-shaded part of the hedge and behind the oak, so it was no surprise to me that it developed a disease at this location. There are three different rust fungus that can infect Eastern Redcedar: 1. Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae[2] which produces bright orange gelatinous galls with tendril-like protrusions or Cedar-Apple Rust (spores from these galls will infect apple trees). 2. Gymnosporangium globosum smaller, less conspicuous branch galls, with horn-like protrusions or Hawthorne Rust and, 3. Gymnosporangium clavipes or Quince rust (spores infect rosaceae plants). I did not observe round branch galls[3] so I concluded Cedar-Quince rust was the disease on my cedar shrub which is caused by the Gymnosporangium globosum fungus[4].

Close up of Cedar-Quince Rust on branch of Eastern Redcedar on March 13, 2025. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Disease Cycle

These fungi need plants from two plant families to complete their life cycle (multiple hosts).[5]  Of the rust diseases, Cedar-Quince has the broadest host range and affects many genera of the Rosaceae family including apple, crabapple, flowering quince, hawthorn, serviceberry and mountain ash.[6] In damp spring weather it forms orange, gelatinous blisters on the bark of branches of the Eastern Redcedar. It can kill young branches and weaken plants when the cankers develop on the main trunk. When it infects the other hosts, like apple, it infects the young branches and fruit but not the leaves. Basidiospores released from the Eastern Redcedar branch orange swellings will infect the stems and fruit of quince and other deciduous host plants. Seven to ten days after infection spots develop, followed by the formation of tiny black dots within the spots a few days later. Globular or cup-shaped structures (aecia) are formed four to seven weeks later. Aecipospores, which are released during a rain event from these structures, will become airborne and infect susceptible Easter Redcedar plants during late summer or fall. One year later, swellings composed of both fungal and host plant tissues will develop on the Eastern Redcedar host. When the spring weather is wet and cool (74 to 78 degrees F) swelling on the branches of the Eastern Redcedar will result in the release of basidiospores which in turn will infect quince or another deciduous host, and the cycle continues.

Management of Cedar-Quince Rust on Eastern Redcedar

Pruning and proper disposal of the infected branches, if practical, is a good way to control the disease. I decided to remove the thinly branched Eastern Redcedar and burn it because it had lost it ornamental value and it was unhealthy and the other cedars beside it did not appear to be infected. Because two kinds of plants are necessary for the survival of this fungus, removal of my old flowering quince in my front yard that has developed galls seems to be a practical solution for me because I want to eventually remove most of my non-native species in my yard.[7]

There are preventive fungicides that are made to protect developing/new growth twigs and branches from infection during the time the swellings on the Eastern Redcedar are orange and gelatinous. Multiple applications over several weeks are necessary until the orange coating becomes dry and inactive. Pesticides registered for use include: captan, chlorothalonil, mancozeb, sulfur, thiram and ziram. Other strategies include not planting susceptible host plants within a few hundred yards of apples, hawthorns and other plants of the Rosaceae family. Other cultural methods of disease control would be planting plants that are resistant to rust diseases and removing galls from the deciduous host plants to reduce infection of the alternate host plant. The gall is not as big as the black knot disease[8].

Black gall on the flowering quince on Febraury 24, 2025. The gall is not as big as those associated with black knot disease.8 (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

This experience was a reminder to me to take a stroll and inspect parts of my yard that I have taken for granted and it was well worth the time because the other adjacent Eastern Redcedar shrubs in my border screen do not exhibit any fungal rust symptoms. Scouting for disease is good gardening practice. You know what they say ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure’. If you have Eastern Redcedar trees in your yard now is the time to inspect for any evidence of fungal rust disease. Your neighbor with a flowering crabapple may thank you.


Notes

[1] https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/juniperus-virginiana/

[2] https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/juniper-diseases-insect-pests/

[3] https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/5-diseases-and-disorders#section_heading_7616

[4] tps://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=828832

[5] https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/cedar-apple-rust/

[6] https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/insects-pests-and-problems/diseases/rusts/cedar-quince-rust

[7] https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/cedar-apple-rust

[8] https://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200715b.html

Resources and Additional Information

Read about another fungal disease that affects trees (Black Knot Disease: Apiosporina morbosa ) in a previous post by Melinda Heigel: https://durhammastergardeners.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=15569&action=edit

The links highlighted in the notes are excellent resources for learning more about fungal rust that can infect the Eastern Redcedar.

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To Do in the Garden: April 2025

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

April, the one month that might possibly be crazier than March. Not only do we get wicked wild weather swings, but there is so much to do outside this month. Oh, the stress of it all. As I write this, there has been less than 3.5 inches of rain in my gauge. Not nearly enough to build up an adequate supply of soil moisture to withstand the onslaught of summer. That does not bode well for those of us addicted to growing green things. Let us hope that the proverbial April showers actually become a reality this year.

The forsythia (F. intermedia) along with the grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum) are early harbingers of spring (Image credit: Hope Duckworth CC by 4.0)

The Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) is showing the promise of things to come. There are rosettes galore of various descriptions awaiting warm sunny days and tolerable nights to rouse them from their winter torpor. The forsythia (F. intermedia) along with the grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum) are the most dependable harbingers of spring here. The back yard (a veritable forest) has six redbuds (Cercis canadensis) in various states of bloom and one forlorn apple (Malus x Golden Delicious) that was probably planted before its neighbor, a 30” caliper willow oak (Quercus phellos), became a fully opened umbrella.

The nature highlight of this week was a Cooper’s Hawk (Accipiter cooperii) (Bet you didn’t think I’d have knowledge beyond the plant kingdom.) in the far back yard dining on mourning dove (Zenaida macroura) tartare. He was a magnificent bird (the hawk, who is) and I only wished I could have gotten close enough to take a selfie (or at least his portrait). What has been exciting in your garden lately? Let’s go out and see!!

Lawn Care

It is time to fertilize warm season grasses (Bermuda & zoysia—not centipede yet. Stay tuned.) with a slow release high nitrogen fertilizer. Cool season grass lovers (fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye) can still put out a similar fertilizer if you didn’t do it in March. NOW is the time to apply preemergent herbicide for weed and crabgrass (also a weed) control. Earlier in the month is better than later and definitely before the dogwoods (Cornus sps.) bloom.

Fertilizing

Any shrubbery that didn’t get done in March can still benefit from an application of a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent). With luck, Mother Nature will water it in for you.

Planting

To get an early start on planting, you might want to try soil blocks. Marcia Kirinus described this technique in an previous blog post published in 2024. (Image credit: Allie Mullen)

Look, let’s be real. Planting anything other than root crops and salad greens in April in the piedmont of North Carolina is a crap shoot. However, for the optimists and seriously addicted veggie gardeners you can plant seeds of cucurbits (squashes, melons, cucumbers) and corn. Just be ready to cover them if Mother Nature takes a notion to frost them. By the end of the month, it should be safe to plant beans and okra. It should be safe to plant tomatoes and peppers by then, also. If you have room, please plant enough to share with those who may not have ready access to fresh produce. Everyone needs a healthy diet. Warm season grasses may be plugged/sprigged or sodded this month. Only bermudagrass can be seeded and the process is ponderous. For all things grass in North Carolina check out the NCSU Turffiles website at (www.turffiles.ncsu.edu). There is way more information there than I could put in this here li’l ole blog post.

Spraying

If you haven’t broken out the spray equipment yet, here’s your chance. Wreak havoc on azalea lace bugs, boxwood leaf miners, euonymus and tea scales, and spider mites.

Left to right: Azalea lace bugs, boxwood leafminer, and spider mites (on roses) are common pests in the home landscape. (Image credit: NC State Extension)

Try organic products first. The next weapon in the arsenal is horticultural oil. The nuclear option (full blown toxic stuff) should be your last resort. Please avoid neonicotinoides. They are heavy duty toxic and are a major contributor to the decline of many beneficial insects. You should decline to participate in the slaughter. ALWAYS read and follow the instructions on the label. Be sure the pest you are trying to control is listed there, too. Spray iris beds for borers.

Treat cruciferous veggies (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, etc.) for worms if you see them. Spray squash plants weekly from now until June for squash vine borers. It is only necessary to spray the stem near the base. Spray apple and pear trees with streptomycin to control fire blight. Spray once at bud break and again at full bloom. Too much rain may necessitate a third application. Begin the weekly spray program for fruit trees as soon as the petals have fallen. Commence (as if you ever stopped) your rose spray program (which will continue as long as you insist on growing tea roses).

OTHER STUFF THAT WILL KEEP YOU OUTSIDE WHERE YOU CAN IGNORE THE DUST AND DIRTY LAUNDRY. (They’re not important anyway…well, maybe some laundry.)

It is almost time to head to the locally owned garden center or nursery to pick out the plants for this year’s annual display. Who can resist a pot of evolvulus, or the latest petunia, or maybe it’s the year for vinca (after which, it will always be the year for vinca)? Get creative with your pots. There’s merit in the “a thriller, a filler, and a spiller” axiom. Mulch is your friend. She helps hold in soil moisture, keeps roots cool, works on weed suppression and looks damn good doing it. There isn’t really a downside. What I postulated in the first sentence of this epistle does not negate the opinion that April is tied with October for the second best month of the year. (Come on. Nothing beats May.) You have to be flexible as the weather may change hourly, but it is worth the effort. You may well be rewarded in the next hour. Besides, we get the Final Four x 2 and BASEBALL season opens.

The demonstration garden at 921 Foster Street is coming alive with blooming bulbs and early perennials and annuals! (Image credit: Allie Mullen)

AWESOME APRIL, Y’all!

Resource and Additional Information

NC State Cooperative Extension has a series of handouts and publications about insects that are a problems for specific plants such as azaleas, roses, boxwoods, rhododendron, gardenias and many more. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/search_results?q=spring+gardening&collection=insect-and-related-pests-of-shrubs

Looking for a calendar on vegetable gardening in Central North Carolina? https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/central-north-carolina-planting-calendar-for-annual-vegetables-fruits-and-herbs

The NC Turf Files provides information on winter and summer grasses including potential problems and a calendar for treatment and fertilization. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/catalog/series/240/

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