Tag: garden calendar durham nc

To Do in April

On By durhammastergardenersIn Gardening information

Fertilizing

  • Fertilize azaleas after they bloom
  • Fertilize annuals, shrubs, and trees that were not fertilized in the fall

Planting

  • Plant summer bulbs
  • The average last spring frost date in Durham County is April 13, +/- 11 days. After last frost, plant herbs and warm-season vegetables.
  • The following warm-weather vegetable can be planted this month:  green beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes, melons, swiss chard, beets, cantaloupe, and corn.
  • Replace cool-season annuals, such as pansies with summer annuals.
  • Plant perennial seeds, such as hollyhock, coreopsis, daisy, phlox and Sweet William.
  • Plant small fruit plants, such as strawberry, blueberry and blackberry.

Pruning
Blue Butterfly

  • Cut back butterfly bushes to approximately 30”
  • Cut back ornamental grasses close to the ground
  • Prune azaleas after they bloom
  • Pinch chrysanthemums to promote later bloom

Spraying

  • Spray insect oil on fruit trees
  • Check azaleas, rhododendron and pyrachanta for lace bugs.  Treat with an insecticide if necessary.
  • Spray roses before buds open.
  • Begin spraying to control poison ivy, honeysuckle and kudzu with a recommended herbicide.
  • Spray as needed, following instructions on the pesticide label.

Lawn Care

  • Start mowing tall fescue to three inches
  • Begin irrigation
  • Fertilize warm-season grasses
  • Do not fertilize cool-season grasses, such as tall fescue, Kentucky blue grass and fine fescue now.
  • Mow your warm-season grasses at the correct height.  Bermuda and zoysia at 1 inch and St. Augustine at 2-3 inches.

Propagation

  • Divide perennials such as daylilies and hostas

Specific Chores

  • Perform mower maintenance
  • Re-mulch beds
  • Clean out water gardens

November Gardening Calendar

On By durhammastergardenersIn Gardening calendar

Gardening Calendar for the Triangle

NOVEMBER

Put the garden to bed for the winter. A fall cleanup will prevent many of next year’s insect and disease problems, and give you a head start on planting next spring! Pull out all annuals that have completed their life cycle, and cut back perennials. Remove debris from under plants and shrubs. If any disease was present, do not compost that debris. Till the vegetable garden to expose harmful insect larvae and disease organisms to cold and predators. Take soil samples — soil tests are free from April through November and the lab is not busy this time of year — and incorporate organic matter and lime if needed. You’ll be ready to plant next spring while your neighbors are waiting for the soil to dry out enough for tilling.

References:

Agronomic Services – Soil Testing North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services

www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/sthome.htm

Submitting samples for soil testing prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%205.PDF

Understanding the soil test report prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program

durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%206.PDF

Durham’s soil prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program

durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%202.PDF

Amending clay soils prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program

www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/agecon/WECO/documents/NCSU.amending.clay.soils.pdf

Lawn Care

Fertilize fescue lawns for winter. The November fertilization (near Thanksgiving) is the most important one of the year for cool-season grasses. The soil is still warm enough to permit the growth of strong roots that will enable the grass to withstand next summer’s baking heat. Use a slow-release fertilizer formulated for turf, and apply according to soil test results. If you haven’t limed in the past three years, you probably need to do that also. Submit a soil sample to find out how much lime to apply. Soil test materials are available at your Cooperative Extension Center (see information above).

References:

Carolina lawns: a guide to maintaining quality turf in the landscape published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf

Lawn maintenance calendar: tall fescue published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/000017/Tall_Fescue_Lawn_Maintenance_Calendar.pdf

Trees, shrubs & ornamentals

Fall is for planting! November through early February is an ideal time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. The cool weather permits establishment of a root system before next year’s hot weather. It is also an ideal time to move shrubs from one place to another.

Plant a tree! Successful tree-planting begins with a wide planting hole. Trees will have a large root span at maturity, so it’s better not to amend the soil in the planting area. Simply loosen the soil (by forking or tilling) in an area several times the diameter of the rootball, to relieve soil compaction. Spread the roots of the tree when planting. Mulch the area after planting, but keep mulch away from the trunk to discourage chewing rodents and rot. Staking may be necessary at first, but tie the tree loosely enough that it can move a little in the wind. Remove the ties after a few months.

Mulch shrubs, trees, perennials, and herbs after the first killing frost for winter protection. Apply a layer 2-3” deep. This is an excellent time to mulch, since most perennials are dormant and it’s easy to get a wheelbarrow into the garden.

Plant spring-flowering bulbs as the weather turns cold. For best landscape effect, plant groups of bulbs in between shrubs, or scatter bulbs in wooded areas; avoid planting bulbs in straight lines. When you dig your holds, incorporate a bulb fertilizer or one rounded tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per square foot, mixed into the soil at the bottom of the hold. Always plant quality bulbs. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers. Pansy plants set among the bulbs will produce a fine effect, and won’t harm the bulbs a bit.

References:

Successful planting of trees and shrubs prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program

durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%207.PDF

Planting techniques for trees and shrubs by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-601.pdf

Hints for fall-planted spring and early summer flowering bulbs published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-611.pdf

Landscape idea

Landscape with a plan. A well-thought-out landscape plan will produce a more “finished” effect than randomly-scattered plantings. Analyze your property and draw a simple map, noting which areas are sunny or shady, moist or dry. Think about where you need tall evergreens for screening, and where you need shorter plants to maintain a view.

Select plants that meet your requirements. Your Cooperative Extension Center can provide many publications describing plants that are well-adapted for Durham County’s challenging weather and soil. Extension Master Gardener volunteers and nursery professionals are also excellent resources. There are also many outstanding gardening books in the library and bookstores.

Allow space for plants to grow to their mature size. A common mistake is placing a large or fast-growing plant where there is not enough room for full height and spread. The error results in continuous pruning in an attempt to keep the plant within a size that nature never intended it to be. Builders and beginning landscapers often place shrubs too close together, because the plants look so small when they come from the nursery. Find out how large your plants can be expected to grow, and place them where they can fulfill their potential.

References:

Growing annual and perennial flowers in Durham County prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program

http://durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%208.PDF

Residential landscaping published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

ipm.ncsu.edu/urban/horticulture/res_landscaping.html

Retyped with slight modifications and URL’s checked, September 2014 ~ N. Len

What to Do in October

On By durhammastergardenersIn Gardening calendar

OCTOBER

Fall is for planting! Autumn is an ideal time to plant or transplant trees, shrubs, and perennials. Fall is also a great time to till the soil and add organic material and nutrients; the bed will have plenty of time to “mellow” before next spring. Turning over the soil also exposes harmful insects and grubs to predators.

Get your soil tested. Submit soil samples in fall; soil tests are free from April through November. The lab gets really busy after the first of the year. A nematode assay may be useful to vegetable gardeners.

References: Agronomic Services – Soil Testing North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/sthome.htm

Submitting samples for soil testing prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%205.PDF

Understanding the soil test report prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%206.PDF

Lawn Care

Pamper newly-seeded fescue lawns. Your little grass plants have very small, shallow roots. Keep them watered and don’t let falling leaves smother them. Use a leaf blower on low power or rake very gently, lest you uproot the tender young plants.

References: Carolina lawns: a guide to maintaining quality turf in the landscape published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/004175/Carolina_Lawns.pdf

Lawn maintenance calendar: tall fescue published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service  www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFiles/000017/Tall_Fescue_Lawn_Maintenance_Calendar.pdf

Trees & shrubs

Improve your clay soil with organic soil amendments. Shrubs and perennials drown and suffocate in our sticky clay soils; loosening the soil and adding organic material allows plants to grow much better. The best materials to add are well-rotted compost and fine-ground pine bark, in a ratio of one part organic amendments to two parts soil. Mix it well with soil, making a bed 8-12” deep.

Use what your trees give back. Fallen leaves contain lots of nutrients, but they decompose slowly. Help the process along by grinding up those leaves rather than sending them to the dump. You don’t need a shredder; simply rake the leaves into rows and run over them with a mower. Use the shredded leaves as mulch.

Plan for planting. Buying on impulse can be costly and labor-intensive in the future. What does your particular site need: a tall plant that likes sun and dry soil? Or a short, spreading plant that likes rather wet soil? Select plants that will do well in the conditions you can provide, and that will not grow larger than the space you can allow for them.

References:Durham’s soil prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%202.PDF

Amending clay soils prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/agecon/WECO/documents/NCSU.amending.clay.soils.pdf

Successful planting of trees and shrubs prepared by the Durham County Master Gardener Volunteer Program durham.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/32/UNH%207.PDF

Planting techniques for trees and shrubs by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-601.pdf

Residential landscaping published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service ipm.ncsu.edu/urban/horticulture/res_landscaping.html

Ornamentals

Purchase spring-flowering bulbs and store them in a cool place until chilly weather sets in. Daffodils, Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica), and snowflakes (Leucojum aestivum) do very well in Durham County. By contrast, tulips and Dutch hyacinths decline after their first season here, and are best treated as annuals.

Compost your yard waste! As you cut back your perennials in preparation for winter, think about returning that bounty to your garden in the form of compost. Compost is nature’s favorite fertilizer and soil conditioner. Recycle grass clippings, leaves, and non-diseased garden refuse. Composting bins in a variety of sizes are available at garden centers; many are well-suited for small yards.

References:

Hints for fall-planted spring and early summer flowering bulbs published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-611.pdf

Composting for home gardens published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/pdf/hil-8100.pdf

Composting: a guide to managing organic yard wastes by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/ag-467.pdf

Vegetables & fruits

Plant a cover crop in your vegetable garden. Legumes, such as clover and alfalfa, will enrich the soil by fixing nitrogen. Cover crops prevent erosion, and can be turned over to decompose in the soil and provide needed organic matter.

References:

Cover crops for sustainable production Growing Small Farms growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-covcropindex/

Weed control in vegetable gardens published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8101.html

Landscape idea

Think ahead to spring and consider planting a spring-flowering fruit tree – for example, peach, apple, crabapple or cherry.

Houseplants and tender tubers

Store tender tubers – such as dahlia, caladium, gladiolus, geranium, and tuberous begonia – which may not overwinter in the garden. Lift roots, tubers, or corms about the time of our first killing frost, just after their foliage dries. Dig deep enough so that the roots will not be snapped apart when lifted out of the soil. Leave soil around dahlia tubers, canna, and caladium roots. Geraniums can be overwintered in pots, or bare root in paper bags.

Store in a garage or other building until soil dries and falls away from plant parts. Shake soil off roots and tubers, and cut away the dried stem. Discard any plant parts that show soft spots or disease. Place tubers and roots in old sawdust or peatmoss, in a flat box or plastic bag with holes for ventilation.

Store in a dry, cool, frost-free place such as a basement. Do not store on back porch or in a garage; these plants cannot withstand freezing. Also, store them where they will not be eaten by rodents.

References:

Dahlias for the home landscape published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-8500.pdf

Geranium culture for home gardeners published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-8504.pdf

Caladiums for the home landscape published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/pdf/hil-8517.pdf

Retyped with slight modifications and URL’s checked

September 2014 ~ N. Len

What to do in May

On By durhammastergardenersIn Gardening calendar

Lawn Care
•    Sow or Fertilize warm-season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine.
•    Do not fertilize cool-season grasses like tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
•    Tall fescue and bluegrass should be mowed at a height of 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches.

Fertilizing
•    Long season vegetables should be side-dressed 6 to 8 weeks after germination.
•    Fertilize summer flowers as well.
•    Feed hybrid rhododendrons and azaleas with an acid fertilizer.

Planting
•    Vegetable to be planted in May: snap beans, pole beans, bush lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, southern peas, sweet peppers, hot peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes, and watermelons.
•    Gladioli bulbs can be planted.
•    Summer annuals like begonia and geranium can also be planted.

Pruning
•    Hybrid rhododendrons and azaleas can be pruned as soon as they finish blooming.
•    Outgrown hedges can be pruned.
•    Pinch off garden mums till mid-July.
•    Pick off any azalea leaf galls that may form.
•    Spring bulb foliage should not be cut back till yellowing of foliage occurs.

Spraying 
•    Rhododendrons should be monitored for borers and sprayed if present.
•    Spray for iris borers in iris beds
•    Scout and spray for bagworms on shrubs and trees.
•    Use recommended herbicide to control poison ivy and honeysuckle if desired.
•    Start spraying squash vines to prevent borers.
•    Spray blueberry plants for blueberry borers.
•    Start fungicide treatment on tomatoes, which show signs of blight.
•    Continue with rose spraying program.
•    Continue fungicide program for fruit trees and bunch grapes.
(Pesticides should be used sparingly!  Use only when needed and always follow the label)

Other Activities
•    Observe landscape shrubs for azalea-lace bug, boxwood-leaf miner, euonymus-scale, hemlock, juniper-spruce mites, and hybrid rhododendron-borer.
•    Observe broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, for worms and spray if needed.
•    Consider putting down mulch in beds to help with weed control.

From: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Gardening+Calendar+May/

See also: https://durhammastergardeners.wordpress.com/2013/05/04/what-to-do-in-may/,  https://durhammastergardeners.wordpress.com/2012/04/26/what-to-do-in-the-garden-in-may/

What to do in March

On By durhammastergardenersIn Gardening calendar

Fertilizing

  • Fertilize shrubs.
  • Fertilize your important shade trees.
  • Fertilize asparagus beds early in March before spear growth begins.
  • Ponds should be fertilized starting this month and continuing through October.
  • Before planting your vegetables, fertilize your garden as recommended by your soil test results. Apply the recommended amount of lime if this was not done in the fall.

Planting

  • The average last spring frost date in Durham County is April 15 +/-11days.
  • Plant a tree for Arbor Day! Arbor day is always the first Friday after March 15.
  • Plant your small fruit plants, grape vines and fruit trees before the buds break.
  • March is a good month to transplant trees and shrubs.
  • New shrubs and ground covers can be planted the entire month of March. Be sure to follow your planting plan.
  • Plant seeds of the following perennials: columbine, hollyhock, coreopsis, daisy and phlox. Sweet William can also be planted this month.
  • New rose bushes can be planted this month.
  • Plants of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower should be set out in the garden in mid-March.
  • The following vegetables can be planted this month: beets, carrots, Chinese cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, Swiss chard, turnips, potatoes,cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower.
  • Start any annual flowers or warm-season vegetables inside your home that are not commercially available in early March.

Pruning

  • Prune fruit trees.
  • Prune spring flowering plants like breath-of-Spring (Winter Honeysuckle) and flowering quince after the flowers fade.
  • Prune roses late in March.
  • Prune shrubs like abelia, mahonia and nandina this month if needed.
  • Pick off faded flowers of pansy and daffodil. Pansies will flower longer if old flowers are removed.
  • Overgrown shrubs can be severely pruned (not needled evergreens).

Spraying

  • Spray the following landscape shrubs for the following insect pests: euonymus-scale, juniper-spruce spider mites and hybrid rhododendron-borer.
  • Start your rose spray program just prior to bud break.
  • Spray your apple and pear trees with streptomycin for control of fireblight while the trees are in bloom.
  • Begin fungicide spray applications for bunch grapes.

Lawn Care

  • Cool-season lawns may be fertilized with 10-10-10, but NOT with slow-release fertilizer.
  • Apply crabgrass herbicides to your lawn late this month to help control crabgrass in the turf.
  • Mow your tall fescue lawn as needed.
  • Seed fescue and bluegrass if not done in September.

Propagation

  • Continue to divide perennials like daylily, shasta daisy, gaillardia and coreopsis this month.

Specific Chores

  • Check garden supplies like fertilizer, insecticides and fungicides to see if you have adequate amounts.
  • Check all garden equipment, lawn mowers, tillers, hedge trimmers, tools, hoses and sprayers to see if they are in find working order before they are needed.
  • Be certain that old plantings of perennials like peony, hollyhock and phlox are clean of last season’s growth.