By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County.
The flower and leaves of English Daisy, Bellis perennis. Image credit: André Karwath aka Aka CC BY-SA 2.5
Well now, wasn’t that an April to remember? There was something for everyone—unless you thought rain might be important. Our April showers all fell in Texas, the Mississippi and Missouri River valleys, and in the Northeast and most points in between—just not so much in Durham County, North Carolina. We did set temperature records on both ends of the scale, so there is that.
The Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) is going to have May flowers (sans pilgrims) despite the lack of soil moisture. Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), bless his heart, was both promiscuous and virile last year. His progeny are prolific. English daisy (Bellis perennis)—with whom Sweet William did not consort—is accompanying Billy for the late April/early May show.
On the other side of the ACG (ACG North, northwest), false vervain (Stachytarpheta mutabilis), Chinese forget-me-not (Cynoglossum amabile), and lance-leaf coreopsis (C. lanceolata) are vying for attention. The least accidental portion of the ACG has been resplendent with peonies (Paeonia x hybrid), which came and went in a drought-shortened display, German iris (Iris germanica), and a brilliant red Knock Out rose (Rosa x “Knock Out” ‘Radazz’).
So, exactly what is there to do in the May garden other than water, water, water? Let’s find out!
From left to right; False vervain (Stachytarpheta mutablis), Chinese forget-me-not (Cynoglossum amabile), and lance-leaf coreopsis (C. lanceolata). Image credit: Left; Forest & Kim Starr, center and right; Marcia Kirinus
Lawn Care
Contrary to what was lawn care gospel since forever, it is now okay to fertilize your cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye) in May. A judicious application of a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) is appropriate.
Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia) will benefit from an application of a slow-release product if you didn’t get that done in April. Centipede grass gets its turn next month.
Mow cool-season grasses between 3” and 4” high, and warm-season 1½” to 2” high.
Fertilizing
Long-season crops (those that produce over an extended period or take a season to produce) would enjoy a balanced fertilizer snack about now.
Summer flowers will be ecstatic and will reward you with a generous display if you feed them a bit of balanced sustenance also.
Non-native rhododendrons and azaleas (sort of redundant there) can be fed with an acid fertilizer if the soil pH needs to be lowered. This information can be obtained by submitting a soil sample to the Extension office (721 Foster St.). They are free from now until the 1st of December.
Planting
North Carolina State University has an excellent planting chart for annual vegetables at Central North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables. The chart covers most of the vegetables appropriate for this region, plus guides for planting flowers and herbs as seeds, transplants, tubers, or corms. There are also spacing instructions. Check it out.
Pruning
Sharpen those shears and loppers. A farmer once told me that the best time to prune is when the shears are sharp, but I prefer to think we can refine that a little bit.
Non-native rhododendrons (yes, and azaleas) may be pruned as soon as they finish blooming. The pruning needs to be completed before the 4th of July. After that, you may be pruning off next year’s bloom buds.
Check azaleas and camellias for leaf galls and remove them as needed. They are not harmful to the plant—they’re just not a pleasing aesthetic.
Keep mums pinched until mid-July if you are looking for fall blooms on full plants.
Resist the urge to cut back the foliage of spring bulbs. (Did I say that last month? Bears repeating.) The plants need the foliage to produce the energy in the bulb that allows it to regale you with lovely blooms next year. Let them turn yellow before giving them a haircut.
Spraying (if you must)
Insecticide for borers on iris, rhododendrons, blueberries, and squash.
Apply fungicide on fruit trees, bunch grapes, and tomatoes with signs of blight.
Continue (until eternity) a regular rose program.
Check for bagworms on trees and shrubbery, especially evergreens. They will be “out of the bag” this month and vulnerable to pesticide applications.
Watch for aphids on everything, everywhere. They are particularly fond of new growth.
This is a good time to spray invasive vining weeds like poison ivy/oak, English ivy, honeysuckle, etc.
Check cruciferous plants (cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.) for worms. Spray as necessary.
Other adventures in the land of entomology: look for insects and arachnids on azaleas (lace bugs, spider mites), euonymus and camellias (tea scale), boxwoods (leaf miners—check for adult flies on the outside leaves). If the weather becomes hot and dry (as if it weren’t already), check all your houseplants for spider mites and aphids.
OTHER THINGS WITH WHICH TO OCCUPY YOURSELF IN THE MAY GARDEN
Mulch, mulch, mulch. A good 2” layer of a bark product or compost will help retain what little moisture is left in the soil (as well as any that Mother Nature might deem us worthy of in the future).
If you have a flower garden, pick a bunch and share them with a neighbor—even one you don’t know. They might be a friend you haven’t met yet.
Just go outside! Grill something tasty. Drink something satisfying. Read a book. Play with the dog. Anything to get outside. It is the kindliest month of the year in North Carolina.
Oh yeah—run the flag up the pole on Memorial Day and thank a vet.
Resources and Additional Information
- Learn all about bagworms and how to control them: https://camden.ces.ncsu.edu/2024/05/control-bagworms-in-late-may-and-early-june-2022/
- A gardeners guide to fertilizing shrubs and trees: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/a-gardeners-guide-to-fertilizing-trees-and-shrubs
- A gardener’s guide to soil testing: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/a-gardeners-guide-to-soil-testing
- Article Short link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5VT