To Do in the Garden: October 2025

(aka: GARY’S GARRULOUS GARDENING GUIDE)

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

I reckon we have seen the last of September and quite possibly the last of the 90-degree days. So, I have mixed feelings about all that. Being a devotee of the ancient Egyptian god, Ra, I rather like a temperature in the nineties. Being a gardener, I prefer a little more rain a lot more regularly. Camelot anyone?
The Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) would agree with the more rain more often thing. It is sadder than “normal” (which is currently undergoing a redefinition). Most of the perennials have given up and gone into early hibernation.

The gardenias (Gardenia jasminoides), Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Stoke’s aster (Stokesia) have passed their prime but continue to attract pollinators and take on interesting shapes that might be used in a Halloween flower bouquet. (Image credit: Javin Griffin)

The few that are left are the oft mentioned Chrysanthemum x ‘I-Don’t-Have-A-Clue’, hardy ageratum or blue mist flower (Conoclinium coelestinum or Eupatorium coelestinum). Take your pick. and gallardia (Gallardia pulchella), and Autumn Joy sedum (Hylotelephium “Herbstsfreude” ‘Autumn Joy”). BTW, this stonecrop is a cross-genus hybrid. It is a cross between Sedum telephinum and a species of ice plant, Hylotelephinum spectabile. (This insignificant bit of trivia is included in your subscription at no extra cost.)

A close-up of Autumn Joy sedum flowers in shades of pink and green, with a bee perched on one of the blooms.

Autumn Joy sedum is a year round plant. In spring, it has rounded, fleshy green leaves followed by light pink flower buds during the summer. In the fall, the flowers open and are quite attractive to butterflies and bees. In the winter season, browned seed heads are also eye-catching.  (Image credit: David J. Stang CC BY-SA4.0)

The African marigolds (Tagetes erecta) and zinnias (Zinnia elegans) have come back after some rain and much needed dead heading. And that’s all, folks. The gardening season starts to wind down in October unless you are doing some extensive landscaping. So, here’s the list of stuff to keep you off the streets for another month.

Lawn Care

Keep leaves from accumulating on newly seeded or overseeded lawns. Keep those same lawns moist until germination then be sure they get 1” of water per week, ½” per watering. Continue mowing cool season lawns (fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye) at 3 ½” to 4”.

Fertilizing

We are essentially done here except for spring-flowering bulbs (daffodils, tulips, crocuses, etc.). Incorporate a little balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) into the soil in and around the planting hole. Store leftover fertilizer in a dry place for the winter.

Planting

FALL IS FOR PLANTING! It’s the truth in this part of the world. It is especially true for containerized and B&B (balled and burlapped) nursery material (trees and shrubs). Planting them now gives them the opportunity to grow sufficient roots to withstand our now inevitable summer dry spells.
Want some color through the winter? Think pansies. This hardy member of the Viola genus will cheerily grace your yard with an almost endless display of delightful color throughout the winter. The sooner you plant them the more able they will be to survive the coldest North Carolina nights. One caveat; deer find them irresistible. They’re like dessert after a hearty meal of azaleas.

Colorful pansies in various shades of purple, yellow, and red blooming in a garden bed.

Pansies are loved by humans and deer. They are a colorful way to enjoy blooms in the fall, winter and early spring. (Image credit: David Monniaux CC BY-SA 3.0)

Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted this month. They need a period of cold before sprouting. Peonies can be planted/transplanted now. If you are not planting a fall veggie garden, consider planting a cover crop such as red clover (Trifolium pratense) or winter rye (Secale cereale). These plants are nitrogen-fixing (They add nitrogen to the soil) and can be tilled in in the spring. Win, win, win. Do you have a cold frame? Now is the ideal time to plant a salad garden to keep you in greens all winter. Leaf lettuces, green onions, spinach, radishes & carrots will keep you eating healthy ‘til spring.

Pruning

Wait until after a killer frost (which used to come in October but may no longer arrive until November. Climate change. Adapt or find a good therapist. After said frost it will be time to finish cleaning out the perennial garden. Ignore the advice and habit of your grandmothers and do not cut back all the perennials. There are solo bees (read pollinators) and some other beneficial insects that lay eggs on and in the stems. Leaving the stems until spring helps to ensure another generation. Root prune any shrubs or trees that you want to move in the spring.

Spraying

Hopefully by now most of the pests have gone into overwinter mode. There are a couple that you can still battle with. Lace bugs, especially on azaleas and pyracantha, can be active all winter whenever the leaf surface temperature suits them. The other treatable pests are the scale insects found most often on euonymus and camellias, though they will occasionally find other plants to their liking. I had some on a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) in a previous garden. Both of these pests can be treated with a horticultural oil that will smother all the stages of their life cycle.

Propagation

Are you starting new plants from cuttings? Be sure to check them at least twice a month for overall health and vigor. Water as needed. (That’s PRN for the medical gardeners out there.) If you are one of the fortunate few with a rhubarb patch now is a good time to divide the plants. It really prefers colder climes than USDA Zone 7. Rhubarb is a favorite in this house, but ain’t no way we’re movin’ north far enough to grow it. Been there. Done that and did NOT get the tee shirt.

Other Fall Appropriate Outdoor Activities

Besides snow skiing and outdoor ice hockey, what isn’t appropriate for a delightful October day? Ok, I’ll limit the list to gardening activities (mostly).

  • GET A FREE SOIL SAMPLE NOW! There is a monetary charge for them between November and April.
  • Make a compost pile out of the inevitable leaf collection on your yard. The landfill doesn’t need them.
  • Clean and fill bird feeders.
  • Clean out any unoccupied bird houses to get them ready for winter borders.
  • Dig up tender summer-flowering bulbs (gladiolas, dahlias, caladiums, etc.) and store them in a cool dark place where random rodents can’t access them.
  • Clean and lubricate lawn and garden equipment that won’t be used again until next season.
  • Go for a hike in the woods. The Eno River is especially lovely in the fall but check to see which parts are open.
  • Fire pits and s’mores come to mind. (I said mostly garden stuff.)
  • Find some kids and carve pumpkins (around the fire pit with s’mores and hot chocolate).
  • Enjoy the crispness of October ‘cause it’ll be cold soon.

Happy October, y’all!

Additional Reading and Resources

Looking for a “spooky” garden as we move into fall and winter? Ariyah Chambers April gives advice on designing a Goth Garden. This article was originally posted in October, 2024 and remains a favorite of many blog readers. https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5cW.

Even if you have little space, it is possible to have a small container garden for some fresh herbs and vegetables during the fall and winter. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-create-a-container-garden-for-edibles-in-the-north-carolina-piedmont

It’s not too early to start thinking about winterizing your plants and deciding whether they should be kept outdoors or indoors. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/preparing-nursery-plants-for-winter

Edited by Martha Keehner Engelke

Shortlink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6wX

It’s A Brand New Year! Why Not Plan to Grow a New Fall Flower?

by Wendy Diaz, Durham NC Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer or Durham County

You may have more time to contemplate something new to grow during this cold January. I have a suggestion. Last year, I decided to grow dis-bud (axillary shoot removed) Chrysanthemums for the first time. As I continued to develop my flowering native pollinator and woodland gardens, I couldn’t help but admire and wish I could grow the large spectacular blooms of the East Asian native of Heirloom Chrysanthemums (genus) which I saw exhibited each November outdoors during A Festival of Fabulous Mums at the Sarah P. Duke Gardens. This floral display is hosted by members of the Central Carolina Chrysanthemum Society (CCCS) at the Ruth Mary Meyer Japanese Garden in the Culberson Asiatic Arboretum.

Spray form of Chrysanthemum in the Culberson Asiatic Arboretum,
traditional Japanese red color of the Meyer Bridge in the background
(Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

The opportunity presented itself when I was notified by an email from Pana, Master Gardener Program Assistant, that if I showed my Master Gardener nametag to a CCCS member at the State Farmer’s Market in Raleigh on May 4th, I could pick two free rare ‘disbud’ type chrysanthemums (and I bought a third one). I decided to finally experiment and plant these rare ‘mums’; after all, it was nearly 10 years ago when in July, 2016, I attended an educational lecture during a Master Gardener membership meeting and first learned about these plants. I was impressed with the shear variety of size, shape and color of these flowers.

Exhibit of display mums that were grown by local gardeners beside the
Durham-Toyama Sister Cities Pavilion in the Culberson Asiatic Arboretum
. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Joan Matthews is known as Raleigh’s fairy godmother of mums. She has given many talks to master gardeners and the general public. Her mission is to preserve our ‘grandmother’s mums‘ because they can’t be mass produced and as a result are not commercially viable and may disappear.

I never considered planting them until last May because in 2016 I was a novice Master Gardener and these mums seemed to take a lot of effort. At the time, I was more interested in native plants and clearing my yard of invasive species. Then I picked up three small mum plants in 4-inch pots from the State Farmer’s Market. I was handed a little booklet entitled ‘How to Grow Great Big Heirloom Chrysanthemums’ . I used it regularly during the summer and it was very helpful.

Left: My ‘Vegas Showgirl’ 4 inch pot plant at the State Farmer’s Market in Raleigh; Right: Cover of tiny handbook on the care and instructions for growing disbud mums (drawn by Lillian Jones and Malcolm Carroll). (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Skeptical at first that these small plants would produce buds which would grow into large flowers, I patiently cared for these plants and slowly buds appeared in late summer and grew into larger buds.

Left to Right: Two buds of Amateur J.F. Fournier Class 2A R/B (Reflex); Bud of ‘Vegas Showgirl’ Class 11A P (Spider) and Luxor Class 1 (Irregular Incurve) (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

To my surprise, I had several colorful large blooms to enjoy every time I walked down my front steps in the fall. I had to remove the small extra buds that continuously developed after the terminal bud formed on each stem so the maximum size flower would develop. The rule is only one bud per stem can be allowed to develop.

Page of instructions on how to prepare plant for maximum size blooms from CCCS handbook. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

My first attempt was successful and I was richly rewarded in my novice year growing heirloom chrysanthemums. I attribute my success last year to following the CCCS’s easy instructions and to the more extreme weather which was timed just right for these late bloomers: an unusually high
rainfall in September (over 13 inches) and a warm October and November. The worm castings I applied while they were growing helped too!

Blossom of ‘Amateur J.F. Fournier Class 2A; Blossom of ‘Vegas Showgirl’ Class 11A with a small beetle in the center; (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Aerial view of globular blossom of Luxor Class 1; Side view of ‘Luxor’ blossom (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

During the summer, I kept several stems on the Class 11 Spider mum, even though it is recommended to restrict this cultivar to 3 stems for large blooms, because I could not decide on which equally healthy stems to pull off and as a result my blossoms were smaller but still pretty and I had a long-lasting cut flower.

A total of 5 ‘Vegas Showgirl’ blossoms (one hidden). Circled area denotes an auxiliary bud that I missed during disbudding. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

I had no problem with disease or pests. I used twist ties and tied each stem to about a 4 foot long narrow bamboo stake (which I had left over after making a bamboo wattle screen for my compost bin). I fertilized them twice a month. To be honest, I don’t think I would have been able to keep up with the disbudding if I hadn’t planted these mums where I pass by every day.

The two tone (red and bronze) color of the ‘Amateur J.F. Fournier’ mum looked great next to the golden fall color of my native amsonia hubrichtii. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

One can grow them in a pot or in the ground, although, I am a little worried I did not mulch them heavily enough for the sustained below freezing temperatures of this particular January even though many of these cultivars are perennial in central North Carolina. As recommended, I did not cut back old stems so hopefully they will have survived this cold winter.

There are 13 classes of exhibit mums and over 1000 cultivars in the United States. The letter symbol are keys to the class of bloom size (AA = the largest bloom cultivars and are grown as disbuds; A = large and should be grown as disbuds; B = medium size and normally grown as disbuds; C = smallest blooms and are usually grown in spray form. The letters refer to color P= pink and R/B = red bronze).

Above: Photo of the classes of mums on display at The Festival of Fabulous Mums, Duke Gardens; Below: The reverse side of the book mark given to visitors at the festival showing the 13 classes of display mums. (image Credit: Wendy Diaz)

The three classes of disbud chrysanthemums that I planted in the perennial bed along my front concrete steps, which had good drainage, full sun and organic soils, were: ‘Vegas Showgirl’ Class 11A P (Spider class); Amateur J.F. Fournier Class 2A R/B (Reflex class) and Luxor Class 1 (Irregular Incurve class). Heights of each cultivar can vary a lot but most types are tall growers.

Tall Quill class 10 blossoms on display during the festival. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Chrysanthemum cuttings of a limited number of cultivars can be obtained when the CCCS have their sale around the beginning of May in Raleigh, North Carolina at the State Farmer’s Market. The CCCS members propagate these cuttings themselves. More information on growing and care of dis-bud chrysanthemums is provided in the King’s Mums catalogue which contains 160 different mum cuttings but they sell out fast in January.

If you are not interested in growing these spectacular flowers in your own garden and you want to see the different 13 classes of exhibit mums in their prime, mark your calendar for early November and enjoy their beauty with a visit to Duke Gardens during A Festival of Fabulous Mums or if you
are in Pennsylvania, Longwood Gardens hosts the Chrysanthemum Festival in late October. Enjoy gardening this coming year whether you choose to plant dis-bud Chrysanthemums or not!

Wendy Diaz admiring and photographing disbud chrysanthemums at the Festival of Fabulous Mums at Duke Gardens. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Additional Readings and Resources

Longwood Gardens has a page dedicated to the history, care and research related to mums. https://longwoodgardens.org/gardens/our-plants/signature-plants/chrysanthemums

For more information on the Wonderful World of Chrysanthemums visit the Duke Gardens website. https://gardens.duke.edu/wonderful-world-of-chrysanthemums/

The National Chrysanthemum Association is a non project organization that helps you care for and grow your mums and network with other gardeners across the United States. https://mums.org/

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