hydrangea – Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Durham County

By Jeff Kanters, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

A cluster of white hydrangea flowers against a leafy background.

Hydrangeas, including the variety ‘Annabelle’ seen here, are beloved plants in many Triangle-area landscapes. This showy shrub is right at home in a pollinator, rain, or shade garden and supports wildlife. (Image credit: Elsa Spezio CC-BY-SA 2.0)

As a Durham County Extension Master Gardener^SMvolunteer, I’ve had the chance to dive into the world of plant propagation, learning and honing my skills in growing plant cuttings from various plants. The process of taking and rooting cuttings from a plant to get a new plant genetically identical to the parent plant is termed asexual propagation. This offers an advantage in creating more plants with the exact same characteristics as the parent plant. However, there are also other ways of asexually propagating plants besides taking cuttings. One that I have found useful is called tip layering¹ and worth trying.

The Art of Tip Layering For Plant Propagation

Tip layering is a propagation method whereby a portion of a flexible limb or stem of a plant still attached to the parent plant is secured a few inches into the soil with the tip exposed above the soil, and the stem under the soil is allowed to root. This method of layering reduces water stress and maintains high carbohydrate and nutrient levels on the stem. Once fully rooted in the soil, the stem is cut from the parent plant and allowed to grow and develop separately on its own.

A hand-drawn illustration of a green plant with two leaves emerging from the soil, featuring a curved stem and roots visible below the surface.

Illustration of the parent plant (right) and one of its stems (left) secured under the soil with tip exposed. Note that the buried portion of the stem begins to take root in the soil. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

One advantage of tip layering is that you may get a larger plant established more quickly than a smaller rooted cutting. Also, plants propagated by this layering technique generally form roots more quickly with greater overall success than when they are propagated by cuttings. Not all plants respond well to this layering method, but many plants, like some vines or shrubs, such as azaleas, viburnum, climbing roses and native honeysuckle, have a natural ability to root easily if a portion of a limb or stem remains in contact with the soil for a period of time. How many of you may have left a lower hanging limb or vine touching the ground, only to find that after a year or so the limb had rooted on its own? Viola! Nature has been doing this as long as plants have been on the earth.

One group of plants that I have had success with easy tip layering are hydrangeas, especially the Hydrangea arborescens, ‘Annabelle.’ But first a simple word of caution: before you propagate, check for an active patent. When considering propagating any plant, especially a newer cultivar, you must first check the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) database to determine if that specific type of plant is under an active patent. Plant patents are 20 years in duration from the time of application acceptance to its expiration date. If a plant is under an active patent, it is considered illegal to propagate for personal use or to sell until that patent expires and the plant then enters the public domain.

Fortunately, the hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ is not a patented hydrangea as it was discovered and propagated by gardeners around 1910 long before it was introduced into the nursery trade.

A lush bush of white hydrangea flowers surrounded by green leaves, with a wooden fence and a window with flower boxes in the background.

An impressive flowering Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ I like to call “Miss Annabelle” in my own landscape. Last year, I recorded a step-by-step process as I used tip layering to propagate a clone plant from this grand specimen. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Key Components to Propagation through Tip Layering

When thinking about tip layering, remember it’s all about timing and the age of the plant stem. Timing in any type of propagation is important to successfully root many plants. The active growing period between spring and summer is the most ideal time for most plants as they are actively growing and the plant hormone levels are high. Also, the age of the stem makes a difference. A stem from last season’s growth or the current season’s growth are the best. Because of their youth and vigor, they may root more easily than an older woody stem.

As my hydrangea rapidly put out new growth last spring (2025) I continued to monitor it. By mid-summer I noticed a couple stems from last year’s growth or of the current season’s growth that would be worth propagating on the hydrangea. Let me take you through my process for performing tip layering on one of the stems of “Miss Annabelle.”

Assemble Your Tools

Three U-shaped landscape staples (a rock or small brick would work also).
Garden trowel.
Propagating knife (similar small garden knife works).
Powdered rooting hormone. I prefer powder because liquid hormones are difficult to apply. A quick note on storing powdered rooting hormones: store powdered rooting hormones in their original containers in a cool, dark location. After about two years, they lose most of their potency and should be replaced.
Small plastic cup to hold powdered hormone.
Q-tip.

A collection of tools on a dark countertop, including three U-shaped metal stakes, a small plastic cup with white powder inside, a container with a purple lid, a knife with a purple handle, and a cotton swab.

Tools for tip layering as outlined above. All that’s missing in this photo are the gardening trowel and the gardener. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Simple Tip Layering Process

A person with a hand reaching down to touch a green plant leaf in a garden area, with a checkered tray and a shoe visible in the background. — 1

A close-up of a person's hand holding a gardening tool, digging into the soil among green plant leaves. — 1

Steps and image numbers correspond. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Step 1: First, I chose a low hanging stem of the new season’s growth that has put out about two feet of growth over
the season. Then, I inspected the stem to ensure that it was flexible enough to bend to the ground without it breaking.

Step 2: I determined the location at the soil level where to best bend the stem down to anchor it and dug out a about three-inch-long and three-inch-deep trench in the soil with a trowel.

Step 3: I then set the stem in the trench to test placement.

Step 4: I poured less than a quarter teaspoon of rooting powder into a little plastic cup. Less is more. Used hormone is discarded and never returned to the original container to reduce contamination. Then, I sprayed 70% alcohol over the propagation knife to sanitize it before use. Spraying with Lysol also works. (Note: no corresponding photo)

Step 5: I tested the placement of the stem at the trench spot and then identified a location under a node on the stem to lightly scrape the surface of the stem, about an inch long, just enough to rough the surface and expose the inner layer.

A hand holding a small knife, cutting a green plant stem while surrounded by soil and leaves. — 5

A close-up image of two hands holding a green plant stem, demonstrating the process of splitting or examining the stem close to the soil. — 5

(Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Step 6: I swirled the Q-tip in the small cup of rooting hormone powder, then I lightly rubbed the Q-tip of rooting powder along the scraped surface of the stem.

Step 7: I placed the stem section with rooting hormone along the bottom into the trench, set the three landscape staples to secure the stem to the soil

Step 8: Finally, I backfilled the trench with the surrounding soil.

A hand using a small tool to dig into dark soil among green plant leaves. — 7

Close-up of green leaves on the ground with soil and small twigs visible. — 7

(Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Care After Plant Stem is Set for Tip Layering

I watered the area to ensure good soil-to-stem contact and kept the area deeply watered weekly when there was no rain for the following few months. I placed a marker at the site of the propagation. I left the stem in place over the remainder of the growing season, through fall and winter.

Close-up of green leaves on a small hydrangea plant, showcasing their texture and vibrant color, with a background of soil and mulch.

Success! Now in May of 2026, the stem I used for tip layering appears to be thriving. I will continue to monitor root development through this growing season. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

This spring, as the plant puts out new growth, I will inspect the buried stem for rooting. When rooted, I will cut off the stem from the parent shrub and either allow another year of growth and further root development in that location, or transplant to a gallon pot to establish and grow more before transplanting to a new site or passing on to other interested gardeners. Be patient. I’ve learned from experience that hydrangeas tend to benefit by allowing them a full year from summer through winter to the following spring for best root development and successful transplanting. Every plant is different though.

Give this propagation method a try. It’s a great way to produce more and bigger plants!

Notes

1–Tip layering is one layering method for plant propagation and probably one of the simplest for homeowners to try. Other methods include air layering, mound layering, and compound layering.

Resources and Additional Information

Plant Patent Laws and Propagation
Layering Propagation for the Home Gardener
Pruning Hydrangea

Edited by Melinda Heigel, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7uD

by Martha Engelke, EMGV
Previously published in The Daily Reflector, Greenville, NC

Several years ago, I waited for my large blue hydrangea to bloom like it did every year. But, not a bloom emerged even though the plant looked healthy. After a bit of searching, I realized that the pruning I did in early March, prevented the blooms from forming.

Hydrangea macrophylla, the name of the blue and pink hydrangeas often seen in North Carolina, bloom on old wood which means that they need to be pruned right after they finish flowering, usually in August. Waiting until March, as I did, meant that I cut off the potential blooms for the upcoming year. To prune H. macrophylla, remove dead, diseased, or broken branches and trim the bush to maintain its shape. Harsh pruning is not recommended. H. macrophylla come in a variety of colors, usually pink, purple, or blue. The color of the flower is dependent on the soil Ph. Acidic soil (pH.=5.0-5.5), results in blue flowers and a higher pH. (6.0-6.5) results in pink flowers. If you want to amend the soil to achieve a particular color, it’s best to first get a soil test. Aluminum sulfate can be added to acidify the soil, and lime will produce a more alkaline soil.

Most of us have hydrangeas that are “Mopheads” which are large ball shaped flower clusters. More recently, the “Lacecap” version has become popular. Lacecap hydrangeas have flat clusters of small flowers surrounded by a ring of more prominent flowers. It’s important to remember that even if you bought your H. macrophylla at a nursery where it was in full sun, it likely with do better in a location with afternoon shade.

*Hydrangea macrophylla*
(photo: Michelle Oshen, CC-BY-SA)

Another common hydrangea that blooms on old wood is the Oak Leaf Hydrangea (H. quercifolia). They are considered native to the Southeast United States. Oak Leaf Hydrangeas can be 8-10 feet tall and just as wide, depending on the cultivar. Be sure to check the mature size before you plant. Oak leaf hydrangeas have leaves that look like the oak tree and the flowers are usually large white panicles. Pruning should be done when they finish blooming and severe pruning is not recommended.

In contrast, there are other hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. The Smooth leaf or Wild Hydrangea (H. arborescens) is native and often seen growing on moist or rocky wooded slopes, ravines, streambanks, and bluff bases. The blooms are white and not affected by the pH of the soil. H. arborescens should be pruned back close to the ground in late winter to encourage vigorous stem growth. If not pruned back, any weakened and/or damaged stems should be removed in early spring.

Another popular hydrangea that blooms on new wood is H. paniculata. Popular cultivars are “Limelight” and it’s smaller sibling “Little Lime”. This type of hydrangea blooms later than other hydrangeas and can tolerate more sun. The flowers can be 6-12 inches long. They begin as a light green, turn to white, and then fade to green or pastel pink. The color of the flowers is not affected by pH. Pruning of H. paniculata should occur in early spring just as the leaves are beginning to show. Flower head size can be related to pruning. With more aggressive pruning, flower heads will be larger. Less aggressive or tip pruning can result in smaller but more numerous flower heads. The only problem is that I have found that deer absolutely love Limelight hydrangeas. So, think about where to plant them and how you might discourage deer.

*Hydrangea anomala* (photo: Ann Hamze CC BY 4.0)

One of the exciting things about hydrangeas is that with careful selection of different cultivars there can be blooms through late spring to late fall. They also make great dried flower arrangements. In late summer when they begin to turn color, pick them, put them in a vase with about 1” of water and ignore them. They will dry to a color that is similar to when they were picked and they will last for months or years.

Additional References:
Pruning woody ornamentals

Soil Testing and pH

Discouraging deer

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hydrangea/

Shortlink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-3oH