Tomatoes: The “Shock & Awe” of Single-Leader Pruning

By Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

A ripe heirloom tomato, showcasing its greenish-brown striped skin, with two slices cut to reveal its juicy red interior and seeds, resting on a white cutting board.

Behold the star of the 2026 Tomato Trial: the striking Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye slicer with its port-red and olive-green stripes. Growers and tomato lovers alike know that its good looks are second only to its complex flavor. It was also the variety used in our first tomato trial, testing grafted against ungrafted tomatoes, and we thought the comparison might be interesting. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Exactly one month after we planted 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes for this year’s tomato trials, members of the tomato team watched in shock and awe as Durham County Extension Agent and project leader, Ashley Troth, pruned every plant to a single leader removing an average of 30% to 50% of the plant. “I’d rather hurt your feelings than the plant’s,” she said.  “In the end, we’ll have bigger tomatoes, and more importantly, healthier plants.”

In this year’s project we are comparing three different root treatments to test their effectiveness on both production and longevity. The results will be compared both to an earlier trial where grafted tomatoes out-performed un-grafted, and to our “control” tomatoes which did not receive a root treatment. 

A collection of colored plastic tags arranged in groups, featuring labels such as E1, E5, G2, M3, T1, and V6, laid out on a white surface.

Individual identification tags for each of the 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes in our trial. Tomatoes, we’ve got your number! (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Five beds were each planted with eight tomatoes. Each bed had one of the following root treatments:  

  • mycorrhizae1
  • grafted root stock
  • vermicompost2
  • vermicompost and mycorrhizae
  • no root treatment 

All plants were fertilized with Tomato-tone® according to package directions.

The protocol is to grow each tomato on a single leader. And while the team regularly pruned suckers, we clearly weren’t aggressive enough as almost every tomato ended up with a sucker that turned into a double leader.  Ashley gallantly picked up the shears.  “When you prune to single leader you have fewer flowers, but this also gives each tomato fruit a chance to really grow. You also really open up the airflow through the plant, which helps decrease the chance of disease. While the poundage put out by the plant will be the same, it will come in fewer but bigger tomatoes, and many people appreciate the larger fruit.”

Single-Leader Pruning on Tomatoes

What Is It?

Every tomato starts with a single stalk, but as it grows, suckers – small new shoots that grow out of the “V” space where a horizontal branch joins the main vertical stem – grow. Unpruned, the sucker will grow into a full-sized main branch with tomatoes of its own, creating a dense plant. 

Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye is a vigorous indeterminate cultivar, and the big fruit also requires a longer time to ripen. In this case single-leader pruning, especially in a congested garden, makes sense. While we often prune to two leaders when tomatoes are trellised, a single leader allows tomatoes that are tied to individual stakes as they grow to have increased air flow and therefore decreased disease pressure. (However, it is not advisable for determinate varieties on which tomatoes ripen over a short period of time.)

 Why Do It?
  • It creates a plant with only one “leader” or main branch that is easier to stake.
  • It encourages the plant to create fewer, but larger tomatoes.
  • It helps prevent fungal disease by increasing airflow.
How Is It Done?

Find the weaker of two leaders and prune. To avoid any cross-infection, sterilize your pruners between plants.

(Left to right) Extension agent and project leader Ashley Troth boldly cutting the weaker leader of the plant. Immediately, the plant looks more open. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Identifying the Sucker

A tomato sucker is a small aggressive new shoot that grows in the “crotch” of a tomato plant where the horizontal leaf branch meets the main vertical stem. It grows out at a 45-degree angle. If left to develop, it will grow into a whole new branch capable of flowering and producing tomatoes.

(Left) Discerning a sucker from a new main branch can be challenging as seen here in a tomato plant in the trial that had the main branch accidentally cut. (Right) Detail of new sucker forming. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

The untrained eye can easily mistake a new main branch from a sucker as seen in this photo from our Tomato Trial. One month after the leader was accidentally trimmed, a new sucker has begun to form. It will eventually become the “leader.” But the severe pruning has definitely left the plant in a state of distress. We will follow this plant throughout the season.

The image below, clearly illustrates the difference between a sucker and new growth.

Illustration explaining how to identify suckers and new leaders on a plant, showing main stem, leaf branch, and developing leaves.

When pruning tomatoes, it’s critical to understand how to differentiate the main leader from a sucker. Pruning the main leader is not necessarily deadly but it can put the plant under stress. Production might also suffer. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton via Google Gemini)

Rows of tomato plants supported by stakes in a garden bed, with burlap covering the soil.

And finally, a beauty shot of our new trimmed and slimmed tomatoes. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Pruning isn’t just about aesthetics; it plays a major role in plant health. Disease resistance is the key to a plant’s longevity. Wet tomato leaves – from watering, rain, dew, or irrigation — are a breeding ground for fungal disease. Pruning creates better air circulation allows the leaves to dry to a point that reduces the environment for fungal spore germination. 

If, like us, you have limited space and could use more “air” among your tomatoes, it’s not too late to create a single leader. It takes a bold heart. But you are likely to gain longer-lived plants and the bigger tomatoes that go with them.

Notes

1–Mycorrhizae are naturally occurring fungi in healthy soil, and they have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of many plants. These fungi absorb nutrients from the soil and transfers them to the plant. In return, host plant provides needed carbohydrates to the fungi. Home gardeners can purchase mycorrhizae amendments and even soil inoculated with the fungi.

2–Vermicompost is a nutrient-dense organic fertilizer and soil amendment that earthworms produce as they break down organic waste like yard trimmings and food scraps. You’ll often hear people refer to it as worm castings.

Resources and Additional Information

How to Achieve Peak Tomato Performance

Understanding Mycorrhizae

Vermicomposting Basics

Supporting Tomato Plants

2024 Tomato Trials

Edited by Melinda Heigel and Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Article Short Link https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7Es

Cucumber Gardening Success: Lessons from Our 2025 Project

By Carol Feldman, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

This is the third and final installment in our 2025 summer series on growing cucumbers, where we share some interesting methods we’ve tested. Check out the earlier posts:  Cucumbers…Let’s Grow Some! and Cucumber SOS: Troubleshooting Pests, Diseases, and Other Common Problems

In our earlier blog posts, we’ve explored THE GOOD and THE BAD of cucumber growing. So finally, let me tell you about our 2025 cucumber project!

On April 15, 2025, we planted approximately 60 ‘Marketmore 76’ cucumber seedlings, started mid-March under grow lights, along the fence fronting Briggs Avenue at Briggs Avenue Community Garden. Because she had recently learned about mycorrhizae and had an ample supply of vermicompost, Kathryn Hamilton, Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer and Briggs pantry team zone leader,1 spontaneously suggested that we test these amendments.

(Left to right) Laying out our work plan for planting the cucumbers. Work in progress: vines clipped to fence to prevent cucumbers from laying on the ground which would increase risk of disease attacking plants. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

First we sprayed all roots with a fungal spray then divided the row into three sections. Holes in Section A got a teaspoon of GardenTone® organic fertilizer; vermicompost went into the holes in Section B; and in Section C we rinsed the roots (in order to insure good contact) then dipped them into a mycorrhizae solution (more on that below).

A Brief Segue About Trap Plants

This is a good place for me to say a few words about trap plants, basically an alternative means of pest management. These are plants, or even crops in some instances, that are planted specifically to lure pests away from the main crop. The idea is for the insects to go to the trap plants for feeding and/or egg laying. Certain insects are attracted to particular plants. Frequently used trap plants are nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus), marigolds (Tagetes spp.) and Blue Hubbard (Cucurbita pepo) squash. Gardeners may still need to hand pick or dust with diatomaceous earth or kaolin clay to get rid of the little buggers, but hopefully the insects are largely lured from the main crop.

Earlier in the year, in an effort to break up some very clay-ey soil, the front of the bed was planted with daikon radishes. Radishes, it turns out, happen to be a perfect trap crop for the dreaded cucumber beetle, and we decided to leave them in front of the cukes, not anticipating potential unintended consequences. The daikon radish plants flourished; they blossomed and were so thick you couldn’t see though the mass of foliage and flowers.

Close-up of a daikon radish plant with green leaves and a visible white root emerging from the soil.

Note the broad leafy greens of the daikon radish. While they can be a workhorse in the garden as both an insect lure and a natural clay buster, they shaded our growing cucumbers causing stunted growth and development. (Image credit: University of Maryland Extension)

Towards the end of April, we started becoming uncomfortable that the whole length of cucumber plants was not growing as fast as we expected despite routine management practices of watering, feeding, and applications of kaolin clay and diatomaceous earth to prevent pill bug and beetle damage.

By May 1, the daikon radishes fronting the cukes were between 2-3 feet tall. The cucumber fence basically faces due east. In other words, the cucumber plants were almost precisely between the morning sun and the tall daikon growth. By noon, the daikon were shading the cucumber plants. So we removed two thirds of the daikons, hoping the last third would do the trapping for us. As you might suspect, this left Section C languishing. Eventually getting the hint, we removed the daikons and replaced them with lower-growing ‘Cherry Belle’ radishes.

By late May, Sections A and B were looking nice with a shorter variety of trap radishes growing in front. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

By June 15, we saw an amazing sudden growth spurt in Section C! We were so excited. By the end of July, 2025, production was slowing and most plants were dying having lived a normal lifespan. I never noticed a major pest infestation. I believe the flowering daikon radishes did the job of preventing a lot of cucumber damage from beetles and helped attract pollinators.

(Left to right) On May 31, you can see how stunted the cucumber plants are in Section C compared to Section B. By early June, they are finally starting to catch up in growth and production once we removed the tall daikon radish trap crops. (Image credit: Carol Feldman)

So How Many Cucumbers Did We Harvest? A lot!

We picked our first cuke on June 3, 49 days after transplanting and one month after we first planted seeds. As we harvested, we weighed the produce from each section (but foolishly forgot to count the cukes). We also lost a number of cukes from each section.

Here are the results:

SectionAmendment Pounds Pounds per Vine
AGardenTone®302.7
BVermicompost673.2
CMycorrhizae482.6

So What Did We Learn?

It’s hard to draw firm and fast conclusions since the experiment was really done on a fly and there were many mitigating circumstances, including multiple harvesters/weighers. If there was a winner, it looks to be those cukes treated with vermicompost. At the same time, we have to wonder if Section C might have done better if the daikon had been removed sooner. We may just have to try the experiment again next year with some tighter constraints.

Personally, a big lesson that I learned not only about cucumbers, but about food plants is they are so resilient. They can’t always overcome poor soil, or wet, cold days that seem to go on and on and hot, humid, airless days. But I think they really want to grow fruit. Take as good care of them as you know how and see how well they reward you.

I, for one, learned so much about cucumbers this year that I can take with me all my gardening years. Thanks to all of you readers who took this cucumber journey with me. It was an amazing summer for me. I learned so much and worked with the best cohort of gardeners ever. And we were able to serve our community with some very beautiful, healthy food.

This was hardly a highly scientific experiment, rather more of a “let’s see what we can learn.” And perhaps it may inspire you to try something new in your garden. As for those of who worked on this project, we may just have to take what we learned this year and try it again next year.

PS: A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. If your interest in mycorrhizae has been peaked, don’t try using it this fall on your brassicas. According to a document by the USDA, “Not all plants form mycorrhizal associations. [One such group are members] of the Mustard Family (Brassicaceae), which are often referred to as brassicas. In addition to not associating with mycorrhizal fungi, the roots of brassicas contain chemicals that are potentially toxic to soil fungi. More research is needed to determine the effect of growing brassica crops, both agronomic and cover crops, on populations of mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.”

Notes

1–The Briggs Avenue Pantry Team is comprised of 18 Briggs gardeners and Extension Master Gardener volunteers who actively grow food for the Durham Tech Food Pantry from January – November. This year, they are on track to have grown and donated 1,000 lbs. of food to both Durham Teach and two other local food banks.

Resources and Additional Information

Trap Cropping: University of Florida/IFAS Extension: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pests-and-diseases/pests/trap-cropping/#:~:text=Trap%20cropping%20is%20an%20alternative,pest%20management%20(IPM)%20techniques.

Excellent article on definition, how and when to plant, what to plant, how to manage: https://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/pdfs/trapcropsfactsheet.pdf

Short, easy to read description of Mycorrhizae and how they work: https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/plantmaterials/flpmcar13137.pdf

A discussion about trap crops for many different plants: https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2017/3/Trap_cropping

Edited by Melinda Heigel and Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6nl