growing cucumbers – Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Durham County

By Wendy Diaz, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SMvolunteer of Durham County

Thinking of growing creeping cucumber? Don’t get yourself in a “pickle” by growing it near your vegetable variety. During the fall of 2024, I observed a patch of green ground cover formed by a delicate creeping vine in an area that previously was covered with only pine needles and cones in my woodland garden. This part of our yard was void of vegetation because I removed forsythia bushes some years ago in an effort to plant mainly natives in my woodland garden, so I was curious about this volunteer plant.

Patch of green creeping cucumber vine (Melothria pendula) spreading on the ground in a woodland garden setting.

Patch of creeping cucumber vine (Melothria pendula) spreading on ground in woodland garden. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Identifying the Creeping Cucumber

Rather than instantly judging it to be a weed that had to be pulled up, I did some research and identified it as Melothria pendula, a native herbaceous perennial common in the southeast.¹ I decided to leave this indigenous volunteer plant in my natural area, and I even tried to train it up the nearby rose arbor.

Green creeping cucumber vine (Melothria pendula) climbing on a white post in a garden.

Creeping cucumber vine trained to climb up rose arbor at the entrance to woodland garden natural area. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Common names of Melothria pendula are creeping cucumber, Guadeloupe cucumber, meloncito, speckled gourd, and my favorite, mouse melon.² Creeping cucumber is a member of the cucumber family (Cucurbitaceae). It is a slender climbing vine that uses coiled tendrils as an appendage from the leaf axis to grab onto other structures or vegetation. It prefers bottomland forests, marshes and moist roadsides. Although it’s a perennial in our zone, winter severity may affect whether it returns from the same vine.

The leaves are alternate, palmately 3-to-5 lobed-shaped and resemble small ivy or grape leaves. The charming tiny (1/4 inch wide) yellow flowers have 5 shallowly notched corolla lobes held on a long pedicel which blooms from summer into fall, with peak flowering in August and September in the Piedmont.

Close-up of creeping cucumber vine (Melothria pendula) with green leaves and a small yellow flower on pine needles in woodland garden.

Close up of creeping cucumber (Melothria pendula) leaves and flower. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

The fruit is a mottled green and elliptical-shaped berry that resembles tiny watermelons (1 inch long).

Closeup of young light green creeping cucumber berries (Melothria pendula) nestled among leaves and pine needles in a woodland garden.

Closeup of creeping cucumber young berries and vine. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

The vine can grow up to 15 feet long. The light green berries can be eaten raw but may have a laxative effect especially when eaten ripe when black colored.³

Ground cover of creeping cucumber vine (Melothria pendula) featuring green, lobed leaves, light green berries and small yellow flowers on bed of leaves, pine needles and pine cones.

Creeping cucumber vine with grape-shaped leaves, tendrils, yellow flowers and small green berries. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Creeping Cucumber and Pickleworm Pest

In 2025, the creeping cucumber vine reappeared in my garden, though not as vigorous as last year due to the lack of rain in the previous two months. Unfortunately, my new groundcover is a major host of a number of different viruses and other pests (also reservoirs of viruses during the offseason too) that harm the vegetable cucumber variety.⁴

During the end of the cucumber harvest season, pickleworms (larval stage of a moth) appeared in my small vegetable cucumbers for the first time, but I wasn’t upset because I already harvested many pounds of pristine cucumbers.

Close-up of a sliced cucumber with a young pickleworm larva burrowing into it, showing a small entry hole in the cucumber.

Young pickleworm larva (Diaphania nitidalis) (Stoll) burrowing into a young cucumber. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Pickleworms are a tropical species and usually show up in North Carolina in August and September and cannot overwinter in our colder winters (overwintering habitats are Florida and Texas).⁵ Creeping cucumber serves as an important wild host of pickleworms; so, if you are a fan of dill pickles and Greek salad, like I am, you should pull up the creeping cucumber in order to preserve your garden variety of cucumbers.

Close-up of a green cucumber piece with fingers holding it, showing an entry hole and frass from a young pickleworm larva.

Young pickle worm with brown head. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Young larvae are yellowish-white with black spots and brown head. Gardeners usually find the pulpy frass (fecal material) at their entrance holes in the cucumber skin.⁶

Close-up of a cucumber with a hole and frass indicating infestation by pickleworm, held in hand indoors.

Pickleworm entry hole and frass (fecal matter) on cucumber from my vegetable garden on September 5, 2025. (Image credit: Wendy Diaz)

Managing Creeping Cucumber Near Vegetable Gardens

To avoid the pickleworm and preserve my volunteer creeping cucumber ground cover, I think I will try and plant my vegetable cucumber starts in early spring this time. As a precaution, I will burn the old vegetable cucumber vines in the fall and make sure the creeping cucumber is a good distance from my raised vegetable garden for the next growing season. It is good pest management practice to remove creeping cucumber plants in areas adjacent to vegetable cucumber plants.^7,8

If I continue to have a pest problem with my cucumber fruit, I may have to give up on my native creeping cucumber ground cover and climbing vine because I do love a fresh Greek salad and dill pickles.

Notes

1. NC Botanical Gardens on creeping cucumber: https://fsus.ncbg.unc.edu/show-taxon-detail.php?taxonid=3421
2. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center at The University of Texas at Austin on creeping cucumber: https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=mepe3
3. NCSU Plant Toolbox reference, with information on edible properties and poison severity: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/melothria-pendula/
4. University of Florida IFAS Extension on weed hosts of vegetable viruses: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN931
5. University of Florida IFAS Extension on pickleworms: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN321
6. Virginia Cooperative Extension information on Pickleworm: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/3104/3104-1559/3104-1559.html
7. Organic management of pickleworm: https://eorganic.org/node/5320
8. Clemson Cooperative Extension information on cucurbit pests, including Pickleworm: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/cucumber-squash-melon-other-cucurbit-insect-pests/

Resources and Additional Information

On the blog, check out our three-part series on growing cucumbers in the vegetable garden:

https://wp.me/p2nIr1-671

https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6eD

https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6nl

Edited by Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master Gardener ^SMvolunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6zv

By Carol Feldman, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer of Durham County

This is the third and final installment in our 2025 summer series on growing cucumbers, where we share some interesting methods we’ve tested. Check out the earlier posts: Cucumbers…Let’s Grow Some! and Cucumber SOS: Troubleshooting Pests, Diseases, and Other Common Problems

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In our earlier blog posts, we’ve explored THE GOOD and THE BAD of cucumber growing. So finally, let me tell you about our 2025 cucumber project!

On April 15, 2025, we planted approximately 60 ‘Marketmore 76’ cucumber seedlings, started mid-March under grow lights, along the fence fronting Briggs Avenue at Briggs Avenue Community Garden. Because she had recently learned about mycorrhizae and had an ample supply of vermicompost, Kathryn Hamilton, Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteer and Briggs pantry team zone leader,¹ spontaneously suggested that we test these amendments.

Whiteboard displaying a planting plan for cucumbers, detailing treatments for three sections, including fungal spray, fertilizer, and vermicompost.

A ripe cucumber growing on a vine, surrounded by green leaves and yellow flowers in a garden setting.

(Left to right) Laying out our work plan for planting the cucumbers. Work in progress: vines clipped to fence to prevent cucumbers from laying on the ground which would increase risk of disease attacking plants. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

First we sprayed all roots with a fungal spray then divided the row into three sections. Holes in Section A got a teaspoon of GardenTone® organic fertilizer; vermicompost went into the holes in Section B; and in Section C we rinsed the roots (in order to insure good contact) then dipped them into a mycorrhizae solution (more on that below).

A Brief Segue About Trap Plants

This is a good place for me to say a few words about trap plants, basically an alternative means of pest management. These are plants, or even crops in some instances, that are planted specifically to lure pests away from the main crop. The idea is for the insects to go to the trap plants for feeding and/or egg laying. Certain insects are attracted to particular plants. Frequently used trap plants are nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus), marigolds (Tagetes spp.) and Blue Hubbard (Cucurbita pepo) squash. Gardeners may still need to hand pick or dust with diatomaceous earth or kaolin clay to get rid of the little buggers, but hopefully the insects are largely lured from the main crop.

Earlier in the year, in an effort to break up some very clay-ey soil, the front of the bed was planted with daikon radishes. Radishes, it turns out, happen to be a perfect trap crop for the dreaded cucumber beetle, and we decided to leave them in front of the cukes, not anticipating potential unintended consequences. The daikon radish plants flourished; they blossomed and were so thick you couldn’t see though the mass of foliage and flowers.

Close-up of a daikon radish plant with green leaves and a visible white root emerging from the soil.

Note the broad leafy greens of the daikon radish. While they can be a workhorse in the garden as both an insect lure and a natural clay buster, they shaded our growing cucumbers causing stunted growth and development. (Image credit: University of Maryland Extension)

Towards the end of April, we started becoming uncomfortable that the whole length of cucumber plants was not growing as fast as we expected despite routine management practices of watering, feeding, and applications of kaolin clay and diatomaceous earth to prevent pill bug and beetle damage.

By May 1, the daikon radishes fronting the cukes were between 2-3 feet tall. The cucumber fence basically faces due east. In other words, the cucumber plants were almost precisely between the morning sun and the tall daikon growth. By noon, the daikon were shading the cucumber plants. So we removed two thirds of the daikons, hoping the last third would do the trapping for us. As you might suspect, this left Section C languishing. Eventually getting the hint, we removed the daikons and replaced them with lower-growing ‘Cherry Belle’ radishes.

A garden bed featuring cucumber plants on the left side, lush leafy greens, and other smaller plants on the right, with a fence in the background. — **Sections A and B**

A garden bed showcasing growing cucumbers and daikon radish plants, with lush green leaves and rich soil. — **Sections A and B**

By late May, Sections A and B were looking nice with a shorter variety of trap radishes growing in front. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

By June 15, we saw an amazing sudden growth spurt in Section C! We were so excited. By the end of July, 2025, production was slowing and most plants were dying having lived a normal lifespan. I never noticed a major pest infestation. I believe the flowering daikon radishes did the job of preventing a lot of cucumber damage from beetles and helped attract pollinators.

A garden bed with climbing cucumber plants growing along a fence, alongside radish plants, showcasing healthy foliage and soil preparation. — **(Left to right) End of Section B & beginning of Section C**

Close-up view of a cucumber garden bed showing healthy cucumber vines on the left and small seedlings sprouting in the soil on the right. — **(Left to right) End of Section B & beginning of Section C**

(Left to right) On May 31, you can see how stunted the cucumber plants are in Section C compared to Section B. By early June, they are finally starting to catch up in growth and production once we removed the tall daikon radish trap crops. (Image credit: Carol Feldman)

So How Many Cucumbers Did We Harvest? A lot!

We picked our first cuke on June 3, 49 days after transplanting and one month after we first planted seeds. As we harvested, we weighed the produce from each section (but foolishly forgot to count the cukes). We also lost a number of cukes from each section.

Here are the results:

Section	Amendment	Pounds	Pounds per Vine
A	GardenTone®	30	2.7
B	Vermicompost	67	3.2
C	Mycorrhizae	48	2.6

So What Did We Learn?

It’s hard to draw firm and fast conclusions since the experiment was really done on a fly and there were many mitigating circumstances, including multiple harvesters/weighers. If there was a winner, it looks to be those cukes treated with vermicompost. At the same time, we have to wonder if Section C might have done better if the daikon had been removed sooner. We may just have to try the experiment again next year with some tighter constraints.

Personally, a big lesson that I learned not only about cucumbers, but about food plants is they are so resilient. They can’t always overcome poor soil, or wet, cold days that seem to go on and on and hot, humid, airless days. But I think they really want to grow fruit. Take as good care of them as you know how and see how well they reward you.

I, for one, learned so much about cucumbers this year that I can take with me all my gardening years. Thanks to all of you readers who took this cucumber journey with me. It was an amazing summer for me. I learned so much and worked with the best cohort of gardeners ever. And we were able to serve our community with some very beautiful, healthy food.

This was hardly a highly scientific experiment, rather more of a “let’s see what we can learn.” And perhaps it may inspire you to try something new in your garden. As for those of who worked on this project, we may just have to take what we learned this year and try it again next year.

PS: A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. If your interest in mycorrhizae has been peaked, don’t try using it this fall on your brassicas. According to a document by the USDA, “Not all plants form mycorrhizal associations. [One such group are members] of the Mustard Family (Brassicaceae), which are often referred to as brassicas. In addition to not associating with mycorrhizal fungi, the roots of brassicas contain chemicals that are potentially toxic to soil fungi. More research is needed to determine the effect of growing brassica crops, both agronomic and cover crops, on populations of mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.”

Notes

1–The Briggs Avenue Pantry Team is comprised of 18 Briggs gardeners and Extension Master Gardener volunteers who actively grow food for the Durham Tech Food Pantry from January – November. This year, they are on track to have grown and donated 1,000 lbs. of food to both Durham Teach and two other local food banks.

Resources and Additional Information

Trap Cropping: University of Florida/IFAS Extension: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pests-and-diseases/pests/trap-cropping/#:~:text=Trap%20cropping%20is%20an%20alternative,pest%20management%20(IPM)%20techniques.

Excellent article on definition, how and when to plant, what to plant, how to manage: https://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/pdfs/trapcropsfactsheet.pdf

Short, easy to read description of Mycorrhizae and how they work: https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/plantmaterials/flpmcar13137.pdf

A discussion about trap crops for many different plants: https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2017/3/Trap_cropping

Edited by Melinda Heigel and Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master Gardener^SM volunteers of Durham County

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6nl

Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Durham County

Category: growing cucumbers

Creeping Cucumber and the Pickleworm