Tomatoes: The “Shock & Awe” of Single-Leader Pruning

By Kathryn Hamilton, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

A ripe heirloom tomato, showcasing its greenish-brown striped skin, with two slices cut to reveal its juicy red interior and seeds, resting on a white cutting board.

Behold the star of the 2026 Tomato Trial: the striking Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye slicer with its port-red and olive-green stripes. Growers and tomato lovers alike know that its good looks are second only to its complex flavor. It was also the variety used in our first tomato trial, testing grafted against ungrafted tomatoes, and we thought the comparison might be interesting. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Exactly one month after we planted 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes for this year’s tomato trials, members of the tomato team watched in shock and awe as Durham County Extension Agent and project leader, Ashley Troth, pruned every plant to a single leader removing an average of 30% to 50% of the plant. “I’d rather hurt your feelings than the plant’s,” she said.  “In the end, we’ll have bigger tomatoes, and more importantly, healthier plants.”

In this year’s project we are comparing three different root treatments to test their effectiveness on both production and longevity. The results will be compared both to an earlier trial where grafted tomatoes out-performed un-grafted, and to our “control” tomatoes which did not receive a root treatment. 

A collection of colored plastic tags arranged in groups, featuring labels such as E1, E5, G2, M3, T1, and V6, laid out on a white surface.

Individual identification tags for each of the 40 Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye tomatoes in our trial. Tomatoes, we’ve got your number! (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Five beds were each planted with eight tomatoes. Each bed had one of the following root treatments:  

  • mycorrhizae1
  • grafted root stock
  • vermicompost2
  • vermicompost and mycorrhizae
  • no root treatment 

All plants were fertilized with Tomato-tone® according to package directions.

The protocol is to grow each tomato on a single leader. And while the team regularly pruned suckers, we clearly weren’t aggressive enough as almost every tomato ended up with a sucker that turned into a double leader.  Ashley gallantly picked up the shears.  “When you prune to single leader you have fewer flowers, but this also gives each tomato fruit a chance to really grow. You also really open up the airflow through the plant, which helps decrease the chance of disease. While the poundage put out by the plant will be the same, it will come in fewer but bigger tomatoes, and many people appreciate the larger fruit.”

Single-Leader Pruning on Tomatoes

What Is It?

Every tomato starts with a single stalk, but as it grows, suckers – small new shoots that grow out of the “V” space where a horizontal branch joins the main vertical stem – grow. Unpruned, the sucker will grow into a full-sized main branch with tomatoes of its own, creating a dense plant. 

Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye is a vigorous indeterminate cultivar, and the big fruit also requires a longer time to ripen. In this case single-leader pruning, especially in a congested garden, makes sense. While we often prune to two leaders when tomatoes are trellised, a single leader allows tomatoes that are tied to individual stakes as they grow to have increased air flow and therefore decreased disease pressure. (However, it is not advisable for determinate varieties on which tomatoes ripen over a short period of time.)

 Why Do It?
  • It creates a plant with only one “leader” or main branch that is easier to stake.
  • It encourages the plant to create fewer, but larger tomatoes.
  • It helps prevent fungal disease by increasing airflow.
How Is It Done?

Find the weaker of two leaders and prune. To avoid any cross-infection, sterilize your pruners between plants.

(Left to right) Extension agent and project leader Ashley Troth boldly cutting the weaker leader of the plant. Immediately, the plant looks more open. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Identifying the Sucker

A tomato sucker is a small aggressive new shoot that grows in the “crotch” of a tomato plant where the horizontal leaf branch meets the main vertical stem. It grows out at a 45-degree angle. If left to develop, it will grow into a whole new branch capable of flowering and producing tomatoes.

(Left) Discerning a sucker from a new main branch can be challenging as seen here in a tomato plant in the trial that had the main branch accidentally cut. (Right) Detail of new sucker forming. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

The untrained eye can easily mistake a new main branch from a sucker as seen in this photo from our Tomato Trial. One month after the leader was accidentally trimmed, a new sucker has begun to form. It will eventually become the “leader.” But the severe pruning has definitely left the plant in a state of distress. We will follow this plant throughout the season.

The image below, clearly illustrates the difference between a sucker and new growth.

Illustration explaining how to identify suckers and new leaders on a plant, showing main stem, leaf branch, and developing leaves.

When pruning tomatoes, it’s critical to understand how to differentiate the main leader from a sucker. Pruning the main leader is not necessarily deadly but it can put the plant under stress. Production might also suffer. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton via Google Gemini)

Rows of tomato plants supported by stakes in a garden bed, with burlap covering the soil.

And finally, a beauty shot of our new trimmed and slimmed tomatoes. (Image credit: Kathryn Hamilton)

Pruning isn’t just about aesthetics; it plays a major role in plant health. Disease resistance is the key to a plant’s longevity. Wet tomato leaves – from watering, rain, dew, or irrigation — are a breeding ground for fungal disease. Pruning creates better air circulation allows the leaves to dry to a point that reduces the environment for fungal spore germination. 

If, like us, you have limited space and could use more “air” among your tomatoes, it’s not too late to create a single leader. It takes a bold heart. But you are likely to gain longer-lived plants and the bigger tomatoes that go with them.

Notes

1–Mycorrhizae are naturally occurring fungi in healthy soil, and they have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of many plants. These fungi absorb nutrients from the soil and transfers them to the plant. In return, host plant provides needed carbohydrates to the fungi. Home gardeners can purchase mycorrhizae amendments and even soil inoculated with the fungi.

2–Vermicompost is a nutrient-dense organic fertilizer and soil amendment that earthworms produce as they break down organic waste like yard trimmings and food scraps. You’ll often hear people refer to it as worm castings.

Resources and Additional Information

How to Achieve Peak Tomato Performance

Understanding Mycorrhizae

Vermicomposting Basics

Supporting Tomato Plants

2024 Tomato Trials

Edited by Melinda Heigel and Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteers of Durham County

Article Short Link https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7Es

Easy Tip Layering: A Guide to Hydrangea Propagation

By Jeff Kanters, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

A cluster of white hydrangea flowers against a leafy background.


Hydrangeas, including the variety ‘Annabelle’ seen here, are beloved plants in many Triangle-area landscapes. This showy shrub is right at home in a pollinator, rain, or shade garden and supports wildlife.
(Image credit: Elsa Spezio CC-BY-SA 2.0)

As a Durham County Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer, I’ve had the chance to dive into the world of plant propagation, learning and honing my skills in growing plant cuttings from various plants. The process of taking and rooting cuttings from a plant to get a new plant genetically identical to the parent plant is termed asexual propagation. This offers an advantage in creating more plants with the exact same characteristics as the parent plant. However, there are also other ways of asexually propagating plants besides taking cuttings. One that I have found useful is called tip layering1 and worth trying.

The Art of Tip Layering For Plant Propagation


Tip layering is a propagation method whereby a portion of a flexible limb or stem of a plant still attached to the parent plant is secured a few inches into the soil with the tip exposed above the soil, and the stem under the soil is allowed to root. This method of layering reduces water stress and maintains high carbohydrate and nutrient levels on the stem. Once fully rooted in the soil, the stem is cut from the parent plant and allowed to grow and develop separately on its own.


A hand-drawn illustration of a green plant with two leaves emerging from the soil, featuring a curved stem and roots visible below the surface.

Illustration of the parent plant (right) and one of its stems (left) secured under the soil with tip exposed. Note that the buried portion of the stem begins to take root in the soil. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)


One advantage of tip layering is that you may get a larger plant established more quickly than a smaller rooted cutting. Also, plants propagated by this layering technique generally form roots more quickly with greater overall success than when they are propagated by cuttings. Not all plants respond well to this layering method, but many plants, like some vines or shrubs, such as azaleas, viburnum, climbing roses and native honeysuckle, have a natural ability to root easily if a portion of a limb or stem remains in contact with the soil for a period of time. How many of you may have left a lower hanging limb or vine touching the ground, only to find that after a year or so the limb had rooted on its own? Viola! Nature has been doing this as long as plants have been on the earth.

One group of plants that I have had success with easy tip layering are hydrangeas, especially the Hydrangea arborescens, ‘Annabelle.’ But first a simple word of caution: before you propagate, check for an active patent. When considering propagating any plant, especially a newer cultivar, you must first check the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) database to determine if that specific type of plant is under an active patent. Plant patents are 20 years in duration from the time of application acceptance to its expiration date. If a plant is under an active patent, it is considered illegal to propagate for personal use or to sell until that patent expires and the plant then enters the public domain.

Fortunately, the hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ is not a patented hydrangea as it was discovered and propagated by gardeners around 1910 long before it was introduced into the nursery trade.

A lush bush of white hydrangea flowers surrounded by green leaves, with a wooden fence and a window with flower boxes in the background.


An impressive flowering Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ I like to call “Miss Annabelle” in my own landscape. Last year, I recorded a step-by-step process as I used tip layering to propagate a clone plant from this grand specimen.
(Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Key Components to Propagation through Tip Layering

When thinking about tip layering, remember it’s all about timing and the age of the plant stem. Timing in any type of propagation is important to successfully root many plants. The active growing period between spring and summer is the most ideal time for most plants as they are actively growing and the plant hormone levels are high. Also, the age of the stem makes a difference. A stem from last season’s growth or the current season’s growth are the best. Because of their youth and vigor, they may root more easily than an older woody stem.

As my hydrangea rapidly put out new growth last spring (2025) I continued to monitor it. By mid-summer I noticed a couple stems from last year’s growth or of the current season’s growth that would be worth propagating on the hydrangea. Let me take you through my process for performing tip layering on one of the stems of “Miss Annabelle.”

Assemble Your Tools
  • Three U-shaped landscape staples (a rock or small brick would work also).
  • Garden trowel.
  • Propagating knife (similar small garden knife works).
  • Powdered rooting hormone. I prefer powder because liquid hormones are difficult to apply. A quick note on storing powdered rooting hormones: store powdered rooting hormones in their original containers in a cool, dark location. After about two years, they lose most of their potency and should be replaced.
  • Small plastic cup to hold powdered hormone.
  • Q-tip.
A collection of tools on a dark countertop, including three U-shaped metal stakes, a small plastic cup with white powder inside, a container with a purple lid, a knife with a purple handle, and a cotton swab.

Tools for tip layering as outlined above. All that’s missing in this photo are the gardening trowel and the gardener. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Simple Tip Layering Process


Steps and image numbers correspond. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Step 1: First, I chose a low hanging stem of the new season’s growth that has put out about two feet of growth over
the season. Then, I inspected the stem to ensure that it was flexible enough to bend to the ground without it breaking.

Step 2: I determined the location at the soil level where to best bend the stem down to anchor it and dug out a about three-inch-long and three-inch-deep trench in the soil with a trowel.

Step 3: I then set the stem in the trench to test placement.

Step 4: I poured less than a quarter teaspoon of rooting powder into a little plastic cup. Less is more. Used hormone is discarded and never returned to the original container to reduce contamination. Then, I sprayed 70% alcohol over the propagation knife to sanitize it before use. Spraying with Lysol also works. (Note: no corresponding photo)

Step 5: I tested the placement of the stem at the trench spot and then identified a location under a node on the stem to lightly scrape the surface of the stem, about an inch long, just enough to rough the surface and expose the inner layer.


(Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Step 6: I swirled the Q-tip in the small cup of rooting hormone powder, then I lightly rubbed the Q-tip of rooting powder along the scraped surface of the stem.

Step 7: I placed the stem section with rooting hormone along the bottom into the trench, set the three landscape staples to secure the stem to the soil

Step 8: Finally, I backfilled the trench with the surrounding soil.


(Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

Care After Plant Stem is Set for Tip Layering

I watered the area to ensure good soil-to-stem contact and kept the area deeply watered weekly when there was no rain for the following few months. I placed a marker at the site of the propagation. I left the stem in place over the remainder of the growing season, through fall and winter.

Close-up of green leaves on a small hydrangea plant, showcasing their texture and vibrant color, with a background of soil and mulch.

Success! Now in May of 2026, the stem I used for tip layering appears to be thriving. I will continue to monitor root development through this growing season. (Image credit: Jeff Kanters)

This spring, as the plant puts out new growth, I will inspect the buried stem for rooting. When rooted, I will cut off the stem from the parent shrub and either allow another year of growth and further root development in that location, or transplant to a gallon pot to establish and grow more before transplanting to a new site or passing on to other interested gardeners. Be patient. I’ve learned from experience that hydrangeas tend to benefit by allowing them a full year from summer through winter to the following spring for best root development and successful transplanting. Every plant is different though.

Give this propagation method a try. It’s a great way to produce more and bigger plants!

Notes

1–Tip layering is one layering method for plant propagation and probably one of the simplest for homeowners to try. Other methods include air layering, mound layering, and compound layering.

Resources and Additional Information


Plant Patent Laws and Propagation
Layering Propagation for the Home Gardener
Pruning Hydrangea

Edited by Melinda Heigel, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

Article Short Link https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7uD