By Stacy Edwards, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer intern of Durham County
(Image credit: Melinda Heigel; Bff CC BY-SA 4.0)
If you need a little encouragement in the dark days of January and February, consider planting spring-flowering bulbs now! From the purple, grape-like clusters and green spikes of muscari, to the sunny blossoms of daffodils and brilliant colors of tulips, there is a bulb for everyone and every landscape…and even the indoors.
Soil and Bulbs
Bulbs like well-drained soil and a pH of 6-7. Heavy clay in our soils in the Piedmont region of Zone 8 are a blessing and a curse. On the plus side, it’s nutrient rich and provides stable footing for roots. But clay holds water and can cause bulbs to rot. Drainage is greatly improved by adding compost, soil conditioner, or pine bark mulch into the soil as bulbs are planted. And speaking of soil, now is a great time to have your soil tested to see if there are any nutrients lacking or other needs. In the absence of a soil test, consider applying a slow-release complete fertilizer into the soil at the time of planting by following the instructions on the label.1
Sun Requirements and Bulbs
Most bulbs like at least 6 hours of sun. But even the shadiest gardens can be great sites for bulbs in the winter as the deciduous trees lose their leaves and allow the sun to get in. Consider the path of the sun as you pick your spot. Some areas that would normally receive full sun in the summer may receive less sun in the winter. Again, drainage and consideration of planting location will help bloom production.
Tips for Planting Bulbs
Generally, bulbs should be planted 3-4 times as deep as their width but follow directions on the package. For large bulbs, like the giant alliums, allow 3-6″ between bulbs. Smaller bulbs can be closer together – 1-2.” A Hori-Hori knife can be very useful, and many knives have rulers embedded on the blade for measuring planting depth. Of course, a small trowel or shovel can be used too. A good layer of 2-3″ of mulch on top of the soil after planting will protect the bulb from severe weather and helps lock moisture in the soil. Planting bulbs in mass clusters makes for a better, more dramatic show.
Spring-flowering bulbs make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. While it’s common to force bulbs like paperwhites and amaryllis during the holiday season, other bulbs like tulips, though more tricky since pre-chilling is required, are also suitable candidates. (Image credit: Stacy Edwards; Melinda Heigel)
Enjoying Bulbs Indoors and Outdoors
Consider starting indoors right now by forcing bulbs to bloom, which is the process of expediting the plant’s normal bloom cycle. All bulbs can be forced into blooming. The spring varieties, such as crocus, snowdrops, daffodils, and hyacinths, require a chilling period of 12-18 weeks whereas amaryllis and paperwhites do not. This article contains more information on forcing bulbs.
Extend the spring season by keeping the bloom times of each type of bulb in mind when making selections. You can often find information on flowering times right on bulb packaging. (Image credit: Stacy Edwards; Melinda Heigel)
There is a wide selection of bulbs that grow well in central NC. The North Carolina State University Plant Toolbox has a list of tulip bulbs that consistently do well as well as more details. Consider planting a variety of bulbs so that blooming extends over a few months. In early spring muscari, crocus, hyacinths and anemone begin to pop up out of the ground, showing promise that spring is on its way.
Daffodils follow with tulips and lilies shortly thereafter. Allium giganteum is a personal favorite with clusters of tiny flowers in the shape of a giant lollipop. Bulbs can be sourced online or at your local garden center and even the big box stores. Look for bulbs that are large and firm, are free of blemishes, and have not begun to sprout.
A Little Houskeeping on Growing Bulbs
In our Zone 8 area, many bulbs are considered perennials and come back year after year, requiring very little maintenance. After you’ve enjoyed the brilliant display of flowers, cut the spent blossoms and leave the stems and leaves to fade on their own. The natural deterioration of the leaves allows the bulb to store energy for next year’s bloom. Some gardeners fold over the leaves or tie them in a knot close to the soil level to obscure the unattractive browning of the stems, but many plant experts caution against this. This practice can reduce the leaf area exposed to sunlight and the amount of energy (food) the plant can store. And some gardeners just keep adding more plants to distract the view.
Bulb planting is an easy process, and the small amount of work is rewarded by a brilliant and encouraging display of flowers in the early spring when it seems as though the gray days are never ending. Happy planting!
Notes
1–A complete fertilizer is one that contains all three of the primary plant nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, in that order. You will see that listed as three numbers separated by hyphens. An example of a complete fertilizer profile you would find on a bag of fertilizer is 10 – 10 – 10.
Resources and Additional Information
More on spring-flowering bulbs, including additional selection recommendations and care instructions: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/spring-flowering-bulbs/
More on the blog about amaryllis bulbs, often forced indoors during the holidays:https://wp.me/p2nIr1-30g
Edited by Melinda Heigel, NC State Extension Master Gardener volunteer of Durham County
Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6F4