Tag: gardening NC

Essential Gardening Tips for Drought Conditions

On By durhammastergardenersIn drought, Durham NC, gardening during drought, lawn care, Uncategorized

By Melinda Heigel, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

If you haven’t noticed, it is dry out there. Like Saharan Desert dry. Wide swaths of the US are drought-stricken, including much of the Southeast. According to NOAA’s National Integrated Drought Information System as of April 16, 2026, 9.5 million NC residents are experiencing levels of drought. Statewide, last month was our 5th driest March on record since 1895. Starting this week in neighboring Wake County, Raleigh Water has initiated stage 1 water restrictions for its customers. Here in Durham County, 100 percent of of the county is affected–and 94 percent of it falls into the extreme drought category.

Drought intensity map of North Carolina, showing areas of varying drought levels from none to exceptional, released on April 16, 2026.

(Image credit: National Drought Integrated Drought Information System)

You are likely reading this blog because you like to garden. It’s springtime, and after what I would characterize as a “real” winter, you are itching to get your hands dirty and your plants in the ground. Let’s face it: all plants need water, especially when getting established. So what’s a gardener to do in this extremely challenging environment? Here are some tips and links to help keep your plants going as reasonably and responsibly as possible as well as some ideas to plan for gardening in a climate that is seeing more extremes. Most of the principles you see outlined apply to both ornamentals and edibles. Turf grass, the most irrigated “crop” in the US by far, has its own section below.

Set Priorities For Irrigation During Drought

If municipal water policies allow you to continue watering through this drought, develop a thoughtful irrigation strategy. According to Charlotte Glen, NC State Extension Master Gardener℠ Program Manager, rank the plants in your landscape into categories: high, medium, and low. Those in the high category will receive the most supplemental water; those in medium and low will receive less accordingly.1 Here are some ideas about how you might assess your landscape.

High Priority
  • Trees and shrubs planted within the last 2 years will be most vulnerable to drought stress since their root system is not fully developed.
  • Established trees and shrubs are the biggest investment of time and money, and have the biggest impact on landscape and house.
  • Rare or unusual specimen plants that would be difficult or expensive to replace and those with high sentimental value.
Medium Priority
  • Drought-sensitive plants like hydrangeas, Japanese maples, azaleas, and dogwoods that are unlikely to survive an extended drought. (For more information on assessing drought damage for woody ornamentals, see the links in our resources below.)
Low Priority
  • Plants you don’t like and plan to replace.
  • Plants that are often stressed in your landscape.
  • Annuals are the least expensive, easiest to replace, and will die at the end of the season even if watered.

Learn Best Practices for Watering

A person inserting a red water emitter to a black irrigation hose in a garden with green plants and mulch.
Close-up of a garden hose coupling lying on grass.

Drip irrigation is an excellent method to water your plants regardless of drought status. Among its many benefits, this method provides water at the soil level where plants need it and helps mitigate disease pressure by keeping plants’ leaves dry. Plant or site-specific emitters allow you to deliver just the right amount of water needed in any given area. (Image credit: Eric Wiebe; Pixabay)

When employing supplemental irrigation, especially during a drought, some basic principles become even more important.

  • Watering slowly and deeply to prevent water run off (so you are watering plants instead of hardscapes). Long watering sessions performed less often are better than more frequent, shorter ones. They encourage deeper roots that can more efficiently tap into deeper ground moisture. There are several methods to ensure you are doing this, and one of the best uses either a soaker hose or drip irrigation. This type of watering also gets the water where it is needed – to the the plants’ root zones.
  • Watering at the right time of day. Early-morning irrigation means your plants are in better shape to withstand the heat of the day. This also ensures maximum absorption by plants and reduces unwanted water evaporation.

Read more about smart watering tips in one of our former blog posts, “Sustainable Summer Gardening: Irrigation and Soil Coverage Tips.” Curious about how to install a drip irrigation set-up in your garden? Read this excellent how-to on on our blog, “Drip Irrigation: It’s Simpler Than You Think.”

Maintain Precious Soil Moisture with Mulch

Mulch, whether it’s living “green” mulch, arborist wood chips, leaves, or bark, is so much more than just an aesthetic choice. Sure, it makes your plants pop and lends a tidy appearance. But mulch in time of drought can be a lifesaver.

  • Mulch preserves soil moisture by limiting water evaporation which means your plants have more water with less supplemental watering.
  • Mulch and temperature regulation. Did you know mulch is also essential for reducing soil temperature? Two to four inches of organic mulch can lower soil temperatures 5-15 degrees compared to bare soil according to USDA National Resources Conservation Service. Also by blocking direct sun, mulch reduces stress on your plants and keeps the roots significantly cooler.

Dive deeper into how mulching can benefit your plants and soil health by revisiting our recent blog “Mulch Matters: Understanding Materials and Methods.”

Understand Your Specific Lawn’s Needs

A lawn sprinkler spraying water onto green grass in a residential area.

During times of drought, municipal water restrictions often affect automated and manual sprinkler systems first, most of which irrigate lawns. (Image credit: Pamlico County Center/NC Cooperative Extension)

Both you and your turf grass may be stressed out about the drought. While many of us have decided to reduce the size of our lawns for all sorts of reasons (sustainability, biodiversity, and pollinator support) lawns are an enduring part of the American landscape. Keep the following in mind when assessing your turf during this time:

  • Know your grass type: warm weason vs. cool season. Not all turf grass responds to drought equally. Having warm-season grass like Zoysiagrass, Centipede, St. Augustine, or Bermuda, means your lawn has a better chance of survival under extremely dry conditions. Often, heat alone will cause it to turn brown during typical Piedmont summers. During drought, it’s likely to bounce back more readily once moisture returns. On the other hand, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue may not fare so well. They can become semi-dormant under this stress, but there are greater chances of more persistent damage. This may inform your future selections for turf grass.
  • Minimize other stresses to your lawn during times of drought. Stop applying herbicides and fertilizers. Limit heavy foot and vehicle traffic, like that of a riding mower. In addition, stop mowing. If you do see the need to mow, experts recommend mowing your lawn to the highest recommended height. Taking off less of the grass blade eases the stress of mowing on the lawn. Also, make sure your mower blade is sharp. A precise cut heals faster according to the University of Florida Extension professionals.
  • Water lawns wisely. According to NC State Professor and Extension Specialist Grady Miller, “depending on your irrigation capacity and current level of irrigation restrictions, you can either irrigate to maintain growth and green color or irrigate for turf survival, allowing the turf grass to go semi-dormant to dormant.” Generally, turf grass requires one inch of rain per week. But if you choose to minimally water throughout the drought, Grady suggests “apply[ing] ½ inch of water every two to three weeks to keep the turf crowns hydrated. This amount will not turn the turf green, but it will increase its chance of survival.”

Plan for Future Climate Extremes

While this drought is severe, it’s likely not the last one we will experience given the rise of climate extremes. Here are some things to weigh when for planning for future years in your landscape.

  • Consider planting time. Who doesn’t get excited about planting in the spring when local nurseries flush with plants? By all means enjoy that time in your garden. That said, keep in mind that many plant experts consider fall the best time to plant. If you planted perennials last fall, their roots had months to become established making the plant more resilient and able to access water. If you are planting now, conditions are a whole lot more challenging as plants try to put down roots, grow new foliage, and bloom all at once.
  • Know what plants are the hardiest. Take note of what survived and what plants struggled during in these tough conditions. There are plenty of annuals, perennials, trees, shrubs, grasses, and bulbs that have drought-tolerant (not drought-proof) profiles. Clemson Cooperative Extension’s Home & Garden Information Center has a thorough online publication of plants that thrive in dry conditions. These are not only great choices in time of drought, but they make a more sustainable, lower-maintenance landscape possible in every growing season. And, if you needed evidence that native plants are more than just a trend, consider that many are remarkably water-wise.
  • Try hydrozoning. Hydrozoning is a landscape design practice of grouping plants together that have similar water requirements. That allows you to water based on plants’ actual moisture needs and means less water waste overall. Think about this strategy when planting perennials this spring and fall.
  • Improve your soil’s health. Healthy soil is vital during extreme conditions like drought because it allows more water infiltration and holds onto that moisture longer. It’s also soil that has good texture, a soild nutrient profile, micorbes and other living organisms, and drains well. Gardeners should always be thinking about how to boost the quality of the soil. Easy management strategies like incorporating organic matter can make a big difference. On our blog, read more about how you can impact your soil’s health, “A Better Way to Think About Soil.“

While things might look grim in the landscape right now thanks to the drought, recognize this challenge as an opportunity to reexamine your gardening methods. What is working? How can I garden differently and still be successful? It’s a great time to revisit fundamentals like watering efficiently, making the best plant selections, and building soil health that, in more favorable conditions, may not seem as pressing. Celebrate a sharper focus on sustainability and best practices now; it will help you build a more resilient garden for the future. And hopefully soon, we’ll also be celebrating some raindrops, too.

Notes

1–From Glen’s piece on gardening during drought in NC

Resources and Additional Information


Drought Factsheet from Clemson Cooperative Extension

NC State Extension’s advice on lawn management during extreme heat and drought

Discover xeriscaping–a type of gardening that uses little to no supplemental irrigation

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Propagating Trees & Shrubs through Hardwood Cuttings

On By durhammastergardenersIn Durham NC, hardwood cuttings, how to propagate shrubs, how to propagate trees, propagation, Scion, Uncategorized, woody plants

By Peter Gilmer, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

(Image credit: University of New Hampshire Extension)

The “dead of winter” is an expression understandable when we had two weeks of cold and a touch of snow, not so understandable with temperatures in the 70s. For plants, the winter is a time of dormancy, both for deciduous as well as evergreen shrubs and trees. This time of year for gardeners often means planning, ordering seeds, and waiting for the soil to warm. It is also the right season for hardwood cuttings, a simple but often forgotten plant propagation technique.


Hardwood cuttings (also known as scions) are taken during the dormant stage of a woody plant, including both trees and shrubs, usually involving last year’s growth, and can be considered from the first hard freeze (late November for us?) through bud break in early spring. The technique is simple, fun, and often considered for a favorite plant or when seed propagation for a specific plant is difficult or slow.

(Left) A healthy donor plant, red twig dogwood (Cornus sericea), showing last year’s growth as the reddest of the stems, each about the diameter of a pencil. (Right) Five cuttings, ready to be dipped in planting hormone powder.  Each is cut horizontally just below a bud, and at an angle just above an upper bud. (Image credit: Peter Gilmer)

Where, When, and How to Take Cuttings

To be successful, the donor plant must be healthy. The cut is made just below a bud, often near the base of the plant and should be done with the health and final appearance of the donor plant in mind. The stem should be about the diameter of a pencil, and length does not matter initially as the stems taken will be cut again before sticking. The term sticking is used to describe the simple act of pushing the cut stem into the growing media. Plants with suckers and shoots are often good candidates, and juvenile stems do better than more mature ones.

Cuttings are best taken in the early morning on a cloudy day, to minimize sun exposure, and should be placed in an opaque plastic or paper bag, with a moist cloth or paper towel around the base. A cooler (without ice) may be helpful if many cuttings are being taken. Remember, cutting a stem is an injury to the donor plant, and should be done with a sharp tool cleaned with alcohol or a bleach solution to avoid disease transmission.

Once the long stem is taken from the donor plant, that stem is cut again with attention paid to the final stem length, bud locations, and polarity. In general, final cuttings should contain at least one bud that will be below ground, and at least one above ground. The bottom cut is generally made transversely just below a bud, and the upper cut made at an angle just above a bud. Polarity is easier to maintain if the angled cut is always up, and this also keeps moisture from potentially sitting in droplet form on the top of the stem. Stems will not root if planted inverted. The cuttings at this point are generally six to ten inches long, although this depends on the arrangement of the buds. Note that no terminal buds are kept in this technique, as the stems are usually too small in diameter near the top of the stem.

Rooting and Care of Hardwood Cuttings

Some cuttings can be stuck directly into the planting media, but most authors recommend dipping the base of the cut stem into rooting hormone prior to sticking. Rooting hormone can be purchased at most big box stores, usually in a powder form, and should be handled with gloves and eye protection, as the hormone can be caustic to eyes and to skin. Never dip the cutting into the original container to avoid contamination, and don’t use too much. More is not better, and in fact can inhibit root development. The planting media required is not unique or specific. Any commercially available planting soil or seed starting mix will work. It may be important to not have fertilizer already in the media, as new roots form more easily without initial fertilizer exposure. Most media options contain two or more of the following: perlite, pumice, peat, sand, and fine bark chips.

Taking care of the cuttings is relatively easy. The media should be kept moist, but not soggy. It is essential to avoid desiccation of the new cuttings, but cuttings are more commonly injured by being too wet (for example, in soil that does not drain well). The cuttings will need protection from direct sun, temperature extremes, and animal predation. For some this may be as easy as a container on the north side of the house, perhaps with chicken-wire on the top, with the option to move the container indoors during very cold nights.

Roots can take several months to form, so patience is required. The best way to assess root development is to tip over the container, gently dumping the contents. A cutting with generous fibrous root formation will maintain the entire planting media, while minimal or no root formation will allow the media to fall away. The cuttings can be fertilized once root formation is confirmed, and hardened off by gradually increasing sun exposure as leaves begin to form.

Have fun with this technique. It is fine to experiment. If you wonder “Can I take a cutting of this plant?”, give it a try. It is quite useful to research the potential donor plant using basic cell phone techniques. Simply ask Google “What is the best way to propagate “X” plant?”. We recommend searching for research-based information on sites with the domain .edu– such as https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu. For example, the best propagation technique for red twig dogwood is a hardwood cutting, while the best technique for white oak is an acorn. Enjoy this propagation technique in the dead of winter.

Resources and Additional Information

Hartmann and Kester’s Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices, 9th Edition. Pearson, 2018.

NC State Extension Gardener Handbook online chapter on propagation, 2018. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/13-propagation

Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center online fact sheet.

Hardwood Cuttings for Shrub & Tree Propagation

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