My Summer Adventure Growing Compact Vegetables

by Martha Keehner Engelke, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM

For several years I have tried to grow vegetables. My previous vegetable garden was on the side of my house and I didn’t see it unless I had a reason to visit that side of the house. There was only one small window that looked over the garden and most of the time, the shades were closed. When the heat of summer became intense, I “forgot” to water my vegetables. With irregular watering, my veggies often looked parched and burned. They withered and then they became diseased. By the end of July, I was sad and frustrated by vegetable gardening.

This year I tried something different, after reading about compact vegetables on this blog, I bought some at the 2026 Durham County Extension Master Gardener Plant Sale. I put them on my deck where I could see them every day from my living room window. This year, my plants have been healthy, I have watered them consistently and I have enjoyed the fruits of my labor.

What are Compact Vegetables and how do you grow them?

Compact vegetables are specific cultivars that bear smaller fruit than their larger counterparts. Compact or patio tomatoes are usually determinate. They don’t give you tomatoes all summer and the fruit is smaller ranging in size from a cherry tomato to a tomato that is about 2-4 inches in diameter. Cucumbers, peppers and eggplant are usually a bush variety. They grow to a fixed size and need very little in the way of staking or trimming.

But there are some problems. Plants grown in pots don’t have a large earth buffer so they are susceptible to: rapid loss of moisture (They need to be watered daily and sometimes twice a day); nutrient depletion (this is related to the frequent watering); and root restriction (it’s important to use a pot that is big enough for the plant when it is mature and bearing fruit) not just when you plant it.

I planted each of my veggies in a container that was an appropriate size for the plant (8-12 inches in diameter and 6-10 inches deep). I washed the pots and disinfected them. I used a commercially available organic, moisture control mix that included compost. After planting, I sprinkled Osmocote® on the top and for 6 weeks I fertilized them with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks. I have read that it might be better to continue to fertilize with liquid fertilizer during the entire growing season because nutrients can be depleted easily. But, since we were in a drought, I thought that fertilizing the plants might damage the roots.1. I watered them daily and about two months after planting, I noticed that some of the plants (tomatoes and cucumbers especially) had lost some of their soil so I added soil and a bit of compost. The pots are on my deck which gets sun from about noon to 6 pm.

How did it turn out?

Quick Snack Cucumbers-This plant was the first to bear fruit. I have harvested about 20 mini (2-4 inches) cucumbers. They are delicious. There are virtually no seeds and because they are so small and the skin is thin, I didn’t peel them. I enjoyed them in salads and as a readily available snack.

Quick snack cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is known for its compact, patio-friendly growth and ability to produce crisp, bite-sized fruit without needing a pollinator (parthenocarpic). (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Fairy Tale Eggplant– My plant has yielded about 40 eggplants so far and there are more on the bush. However, they are very small, 2-3 inches when ripe. For a while, I thought they would get bigger so I let them grow to about 5 inches and they became pale with a bitter taste. When they are ripe they are delicious with no seeds. They can be baked grilled or roasted. I sauteed them in olive oil with some tomatoes, onion and basil, and topped everything with parmesan cheese. Yum!

Fairy Tale Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is very small and the plant at its peak is covered in the fruit. However, in the second photo the eggplants at the top were over ripe and bitter. While I didn’t have enough eggplant to make a full meal, I did use them several time to make a tasty side dish. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Sweet Confetti Peppers-My plant is loaded with these but only a few have ripened. When they are growing they are green then yellow. They look ready to eat but they have little taste and they are hard until they are fully ripe. They are ripe when they turn red or they are red striped. At that point they taste like a sweet bell pepper.

Sweet Confetti Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is a lovely plant with variegated leaves. The photo on the right shows the maturation of the fruit from green to red. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Purple Tiger Peppers-This plant is very ornamental. The leaves are variegated and range from green to purple. The plant is covered with 1 inch peppers that turn from green, to purple to red. They are rated at 5,000-10,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). In comparison, a jalapeno pepper is 2,000-8,000 SHUs. I like this as an ornamental plant but it is too hot for me to eat (I know many people will disagree). I tried to reduce the heat by removing the seeds and membranes (the Capsaicin, the chemical that makes peppers spicy is in the membrane but this is attached to the seed). This was difficult and tedious because the peppers are so small.

Purple Tiger Peppers (Capsicum annuum) are an heirloom variety and can be used as an addition to salsa or other spicy dishes but if you don’t like the heat, they are a beautiful ornamental plant. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Orange Hat Tomatoes -This is a Russian heirloom variety. It is considered to be a micro-dwarf determinate tomato and it only grows to 6-9 inches tall. I got about 10 small tomatoes and then I noticed that that they seemed to stop ripening. These tomatoes really don’t like a lot of heat. This was the time period when Durham was experiencing temperatures near or above 100 degrees every day.

Red Hat Tomatoes (Oranzhevaja Shapochka) are self-pollinating and you can encourage pollination by shaking the main stem. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

Bush Early Girl-This determinate tomato grew to about two feet tall. At first, it was loaded with green/yellow tomatoes in clumps of 4-6. A few of the tomatoes fused. I worried that I needed to trim off some of the tomatoes but I consulted an experienced vegetable grower and was encouraged to leave them alone. I have harvested 6 small tomatoes and they were quite good. There are several more tomatoes on the vine but they are not ripening as fast as the earlier ones. A few have developed the beginning of blossom end rot. I consulted with our excellent Extension Agent Ashley Troth who is an expert on growing tomatoes. She said:

“in general tomatoes really suffer with the heat and struggle to set fruit. Even with fruit forming, extreme heat can prevent them from ripening properly (and so the fruit stays green longer). The blossom end rot could be from lack of water, not because you didn’t water enough, but because things just dry out so quickly in pots in extreme heat you can still have problems.”

Bush Early Girl tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are known for their early fruit that tastes like the fresh tomato you ate as a child (at least it does to me). The last picture shows how beautiful they are when they ripen properly. (Image credit: Martha Engelke)

What did I Learn?

This was a very positive experience for me and I think that I am hooked on these tiny vegetables with great flavor. I had to adjust my expectations on the size and amount of harvest but for me and my husband, this was very manageable and fun. Heading out to the deck and cutting off enough eggplant to combine with my tomatoes and eating my own cucumbers in my salad gave me a sense of accomplishment with not too much work. I will be buying more at the 2027 Durham County Extension Plant Sale and I hope you will join me. The sale will be held on April 10, 2027. Be sure to save the date and look for more details in the future.

Note: 1. According to NC State Extension, you should avoid fertilizing plants during a drought because it encourages new growth, which increases the plant’s demand for water and makes it more vulnerable to heat stress.

Additional Reading and Resources

NC State Extension provides excellent advice on how to care for plants grown in pots.

The University of Minnesota Extension Office gives step by step instruction on how to start your vegetable garden in a container.

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To Do in the Garden: June 2026

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM volunteer of Durham County

Summer must have started because Memorial Day has come and gone.  Today is July-like — humid, rather warm, and breezy. (This informational tome of wisdom and snarkiness is still human generated, which means a deadline exists prior to the first of the month — hence the less-than-timely observation.)  It is threatening to rain, but the credibility of the threat is nonexistent.

Meanwhile the Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) is trying its best to discern exactly what season it is and what it should do about it.  Current cohabitating contributors to the conspicuously colorful collection of organisms with cellulose cell walls include lance-leaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), orange daylilies (Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta), Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis), wand flower (Oenothera lindheimeri, formerly known as Gaura lindheimeri), gaillardia (Gaillardia pulchella), Asiatic lily (Lilium x ‘Corsica’), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), and prairie coneflower/Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera).  The English daisies (Bellis perennis), flax (Linum usitatissimum), larkspur (Delphinium carolinianum), and sweet William (Dianthus barbatus ‘Sweet Black Cherry’) are carry-overs from last month.

Left to right: New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus) (Image credit Debbie Roos CC BY 2.0); black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta), Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis), (Image credits Gary Crispell),

Others new to the conspicuously colorful collection are New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii), and love-in-the-mist (Nigella damascena – a total surprise hidden amongst the larkspur).  A decidedly delightful display, if I do say so myself.

The weather continues to be perplexing.  Do we garden in jeans or shorts — sweatshirt, tee shirt, or layered?  Too many decisions.

Thought for the month: If a beverage containing alcohol is a potent potable, is a non-alcoholic beverage impotent?  LET’S GARDEN!!!

Lawn Care

Because I realize there are some of you out there who are too busy/new to the Piedmont of NC/not paying attention/just plain horticulturally uneducated, I am urging you to fertilize your warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia) now, as in right now.  April or May would have been just fine, but now it is mandatory.  You will know how much and what formulation because you got a FREE SOIL TEST earlier.  (No.  Probably not, as you have not fertilized yet.  All excuses from above, I suppose.)  Remember that soil tests are free from April through November.  Contact the NC Cooperative Extension office at 919-560-0525 for more information on obtaining a free soil test kit with instructions. If you insist on winging it, 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of turf is a safe application rate.

Extension Horticulture Agent Jeana Myers from NC State Extension demonstrates how to collect a soil test. (Video credit: Homegrown YouTube Channel from NC State Extension).

June is THE month to fertilize centipede grass.  The 1 pound per 1,000 sq. ft. rate applies to centipede as well.

Summer is a good time to core aerate¹ any lawn.  Aeration facilitates air, water, and nutrient movement through the soil and to the root zone.

Always wanted a zoysia grass lawn?  June is a really good month to start one.  You will need to use sod or plugs, as zoysia seeds are not commercially available.

Fertilizing

Dogwoods (Cornus spp.) can be fertilized now.  Again, a FREE SOIL TEST and its resulting recommendations would be helpful here — too many variables for general guidance.

Throw a handful of 10-10-10 or equivalent at the plants in the veggie garden.  It will assist the quantity and quality of your anticipated harvest.

Planting

All of y’all who have been waiting for warm weather to plant your vegetable garden better hustle up now.  It is here and gone and come again.  So, if you want tomatoes before Labor Day…  At this point it is necessary to install plants rather than seeds for most vegetables other than beans and maybe pumpkins.

For those of you who plan ahead, it is time to start seeds for your fall/winter garden.  Cruciferous veggies (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, collards) can be started now to be transplanted in mid-July.  For more information on fall vegetable gardening read more about year round gardening on our blog.

Pruning

Coniferous² evergreens such as pine, juniper, chamaecyparis (Chamaecyparis spp.), and cryptomeria (Cryptomeria japonica) can be lightly pruned now.  Be aware that they generally do not produce new foliage beneath a pruning cut.

Hedges and any severely overgrown plants can be radically cut back.  The book says never more than one-third of the top, but anecdotally I can tell you that many broadleaf evergreens and deciduous shrubs can be reduced to 18 inches or so and recover nicely.  (The author, the publication, the Extension Master Gardener SMprogram, NC State Cooperative Extension, and the university assume no liability for plants that do not recover.)

Continue to pinch back garden mums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) until mid-July if it is fall blooms you desire.  If you do not care when they bloom, well, good for you, you rebel.

Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) can be pruned as soon as the blooms fade.

Azaleas, including Encore® cultivars, can be pruned anytime from bloom fade through the 4th of July.

A dense rhododendron shrub with many green leaves and some branches with brown drooping leaves caused by dieback.

Rhododendron dieback from Botryosphaeria dothidea (Image credit: Elizabeth Bush, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Bugwood.org)

Dieback can occur in ericaceous³ plants in early summer.  Rhododendrons, including azaleas, pieris (Pieris spp.), and others can be infected by the fungus Botryosphaeria dothidea or a Phomopsis spp. fungus.  Scraping away the bark with a knife reveals a reddish-brown discoloration under the bark on dying branches of rhododendron. On azaleas, the discolored wood under the bark appears chocolate brown. Prune infected branches well below the point of infection and sterilize your pruning tools between cuts with a 10% bleach solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol.  (Good gracious, NO — not the 140-proof vodka.)  Destroy all clippings.

Spraying

Be on the lookout for the following dastardly destructive six- and eight-legged pests: lace bugs (azaleas, pyracantha), leaf miners (boxwoods), spider mites (needle-leaf evergreens), bagworms (mostly, but not exclusively, on needle-leaf evergreens), and aphids on anything they can get their pointy little mouthparts into.

There are numerous pest-control products available.  Try organic products first.  The planet is counting on you.

Japanese beetle adult and leaf damage (Image credit: Steve Schoof, NCSU)

June is prime Japanese beetle time.  (Contrary to popular myth, they do not sing “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” in Japanese while devouring your roses and crape myrtles.)  Treat them with an appropriate pesticide or pick them off and drown them.  Smush them if it gives you satisfaction.  (Personally, “I Can’t Get No Satisfaction.”)  You will find additional help in this previous blog post – Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season.”

Be aware of tomato early blight.  It shows up as brown spots on the lower leaves, followed by yellowing around the spots; eventually the whole leaf will usually turn yellow and drop.  There are several products available to treat early blight, some with a zero-days-to-harvest rating.

Vegetable gardens are susceptible to a myriad of pests.  Lots of insects (and other genera) like the fruits of your labor as much as you do — and they outnumber us.  There are multiple species of worms seeking sustenance from your cruciferous veggies.  Then there are the cucurbit lovers: cucumber beetles on (believe it or not) cucumbers and other cucurbits, squash borers on most squash varieties and melons.  You might also find flea beetles (they do not sing either) on any bean species, plus tomatoes and eggplant.  And let us not forget the ubiquitous aphids.

Continue spray programs for roses, fruit trees, and bunch grapes.

Use pesticides only when necessary.  ALWAYS read the label and follow the instructions.  Try organic first.

Miscellaneous Stuff to Do Outside in June

A word about watering.  Sometime this summer you will find it necessary to supplement Mother Nature’s somewhat capricious watering schedule.  Plants, including lawn grasses, need about one inch of water per week to sustain growth.  It is best applied in the early morning to minimize evaporative loss.  Evening watering is acceptable if leaf surfaces will be dry before nightfall — damp leaves promote disease. More information on drought-related watering is available in this previous blog post.

Alas, strawberry season is over.  It is appropriate now to renovate those beds in preparation for September planting.

Once you have exhausted the day’s to-do list (and most likely yourself), take time to kick back and enjoy the garden.  Outdoor living spaces were made for June evenings — food, family, friends, firepit, and a cool beverage (to go with the s’mores, silly).  That is what it is all about.  As T.S. Eliot wrote in “Choruses from “The Rock” (1934): “There is no life that is not in community.”  Find your community and welcome summer.

Notes

1-Core aeration is the mechanical removal of small plugs of soil and thatch from a lawn, improving air, water, and nutrient penetration to grass roots.

2-Coniferous refers to cone-bearing evergreen trees and shrubs, such as pines, junipers, and firs.

3-Ericaceous refers to plants in or adapted to the conditions preferred by the heath family (Ericaceae), which thrive in acidic soils. Rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries, and pieris are common examples.

Resources and Additional Information

A how-to on preparing your (free until November!) soil test: Now’s the Perfect Time to Test Your Soil! – Durham County Center | N.C. Cooperative Extension

Helpful information on summer and fall vegetable gardening: Vegetable Gardening 101 – Gardening | NC State Extension and previous blog post Garden Veggies Year Round – One Gardener’s Calendar

More about rhododendron and azalea dieback and other diseases: Azalea & Rhododendron Diseases in South Carolina: Identification, Prevention, and Treatment | Home & Garden Information Center

Learn more about Japanese beetle management here: Japanese Beetle | NC State Extension Publications and previous blog post Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season”

Guidance for drought-related watering strategies: Essential Gardening Tips for Drought Conditions

Edited by Susan Sharp, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM volunteer of Durham County

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