Essential Gardening Tips for Drought Conditions

By Melinda Heigel, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

If you haven’t noticed, it is dry out there. Like Saharan Desert dry. Wide swaths of the US are drought-stricken, including much of the Southeast. According to NOAA’s National Integrated Drought Information System as of April 16, 2026, 9.5 million NC residents are experiencing levels of drought. Statewide, last month was our 5th driest March on record since 1895. Starting this week in neighboring Wake County, Raleigh Water has initiated stage 1 water restrictions for its customers. Here in Durham County, 100 percent of of the county is affected–and 94 percent of it falls into the extreme drought category.

Drought intensity map of North Carolina, showing areas of varying drought levels from none to exceptional, released on April 16, 2026.

(Image credit: National Drought Integrated Drought Information System)

You are likely reading this blog because you like to garden. It’s springtime, and after what I would characterize as a “real” winter, you are itching to get your hands dirty and your plants in the ground. Let’s face it: all plants need water, especially when getting established. So what’s a gardener to do in this extremely challenging environment? Here are some tips and links to help keep your plants going as reasonably and responsibly as possible as well as some ideas to plan for gardening in a climate that is seeing more extremes. Most of the principles you see outlined apply to both ornamentals and edibles. Turf grass, the most irrigated “crop” in the US by far, has its own section below.

Set Priorities For Irrigation During Drought

If municipal water policies allow you to continue watering through this drought, develop a thoughtful irrigation strategy. According to Charlotte Glen, NC State Extension Master Gardener℠ Program Manager, rank the plants in your landscape into categories: high, medium, and low. Those in the high category will receive the most supplemental water; those in medium and low will receive less accordingly.1 Here are some ideas about how you might assess your landscape.

High Priority
  • Trees and shrubs planted within the last 2 years will be most vulnerable to drought stress since their root system is not fully developed.
  • Established trees and shrubs are the biggest investment of time and money, and have the biggest impact on landscape and house.
  • Rare or unusual specimen plants that would be difficult or expensive to replace and those with high sentimental value.
Medium Priority
  • Drought-sensitive plants like hydrangeas, Japanese maples, azaleas, and dogwoods that are unlikely to survive an extended drought. (For more information on assessing drought damage for woody ornamentals, see the links in our resources below.)
Low Priority
  • Plants you don’t like and plan to replace.
  • Plants that are often stressed in your landscape.
  • Annuals are the least expensive, easiest to replace, and will die at the end of the season even if watered.

Learn Best Practices for Watering

Drip irrigation is an excellent method to water your plants regardless of drought status. Among its many benefits, this method provides water at the soil level where plants need it and helps mitigate disease pressure by keeping plants’ leaves dry. Plant or site-specific emitters allow you to deliver just the right amount of water needed in any given area. (Image credit: Eric Wiebe; Pixabay)

When employing supplemental irrigation, especially during a drought, some basic principles become even more important.

  • Watering slowly and deeply to prevent water run off (so you are watering plants instead of hardscapes). Long watering sessions performed less often are better than more frequent, shorter ones. They encourage deeper roots that can more efficiently tap into deeper ground moisture. There are several methods to ensure you are doing this, and one of the best uses either a soaker hose or drip irrigation. This type of watering also gets the water where it is needed – to the the plants’ root zones.
  • Watering at the right time of day. Early-morning irrigation means your plants are in better shape to withstand the heat of the day. This also ensures maximum absorption by plants and reduces unwanted water evaporation.

Read more about smart watering tips in one of our former blog posts, “Sustainable Summer Gardening: Irrigation and Soil Coverage Tips.” Curious about how to install a drip irrigation set-up in your garden? Read this excellent how-to on on our blog, “Drip Irrigation: It’s Simpler Than You Think.”

Maintain Precious Soil Moisture with Mulch

Mulch, whether it’s living “green” mulch, arborist wood chips, leaves, or bark, is so much more than just an aesthetic choice. Sure, it makes your plants pop and lends a tidy appearance. But mulch in time of drought can be a lifesaver.

  • Mulch preserves soil moisture by limiting water evaporation which means your plants have more water with less supplemental watering.
  • Mulch and temperature regulation. Did you know mulch is also essential for reducing soil temperature? Two to four inches of organic mulch can lower soil temperatures 5-15 degrees compared to bare soil according to USDA National Resources Conservation Service. Also by blocking direct sun, mulch reduces stress on your plants and keeps the roots significantly cooler.

Dive deeper into how mulching can benefit your plants and soil health by revisiting our recent blog “Mulch Matters: Understanding Materials and Methods.”

Understand Your Specific Lawn’s Needs

A lawn sprinkler spraying water onto green grass in a residential area.

During times of drought, municipal water restrictions often affect automated and manual sprinkler systems first, most of which irrigate lawns. (Image credit: Pamlico County Center/NC Cooperative Extension)

Both you and your turf grass may be stressed out about the drought. While many of us have decided to reduce the size of our lawns for all sorts of reasons (sustainability, biodiversity, and pollinator support) lawns are an enduring part of the American landscape. Keep the following in mind when assessing your turf during this time:

  • Know your grass type: warm weason vs. cool season. Not all turf grass responds to drought equally. Having warm-season grass like Zoysiagrass, Centipede, St. Augustine, or Bermuda, means your lawn has a better chance of survival under extremely dry conditions. Often, heat alone will cause it to turn brown during typical Piedmont summers. During drought, it’s likely to bounce back more readily once moisture returns. On the other hand, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue may not fare so well. They can become semi-dormant under this stress, but there are greater chances of more persistent damage. This may inform your future selections for turf grass.
  • Minimize other stresses to your lawn during times of drought. Stop applying herbicides and fertilizers. Limit heavy foot and vehicle traffic, like that of a riding mower. In addition, stop mowing. If you do see the need to mow, experts recommend mowing your lawn to the highest recommended height. Taking off less of the grass blade eases the stress of mowing on the lawn. Also, make sure your mower blade is sharp. A precise cut heals faster according to the University of Florida Extension professionals.
  • Water lawns wisely. According to NC State Professor and Extension Specialist Grady Miller, “depending on your irrigation capacity and current level of irrigation restrictions, you can either irrigate to maintain growth and green color or irrigate for turf survival, allowing the turf grass to go semi-dormant to dormant.” Generally, turf grass requires one inch of rain per week. But if you choose to minimally water throughout the drought, Grady suggests “apply[ing] ½ inch of water every two to three weeks to keep the turf crowns hydrated. This amount will not turn the turf green, but it will increase its chance of survival.”

Plan for Future Climate Extremes

While this drought is severe, it’s likely not the last one we will experience given the rise of climate extremes. Here are some things to weigh when for planning for future years in your landscape.

  • Consider planting time. Who doesn’t get excited about planting in the spring when local nurseries flush with plants? By all means enjoy that time in your garden. That said, keep in mind that many plant experts consider fall the best time to plant. If you planted perennials last fall, their roots had months to become established making the plant more resilient and able to access water. If you are planting now, conditions are a whole lot more challenging as plants try to put down roots, grow new foliage, and bloom all at once.
  • Know what plants are the hardiest. Take note of what survived and what plants struggled during in these tough conditions. There are plenty of annuals, perennials, trees, shrubs, grasses, and bulbs that have drought-tolerant (not drought-proof) profiles. Clemson Cooperative Extension’s Home & Garden Information Center has a thorough online publication of plants that thrive in dry conditions. These are not only great choices in time of drought, but they make a more sustainable, lower-maintenance landscape possible in every growing season. And, if you needed evidence that native plants are more than just a trend, consider that many are remarkably water-wise.
  • Try hydrozoning. Hydrozoning is a landscape design practice of grouping plants together that have similar water requirements. That allows you to water based on plants’ actual moisture needs and means less water waste overall. Think about this strategy when planting perennials this spring and fall.
  • Improve your soil’s health. Healthy soil is vital during extreme conditions like drought because it allows more water infiltration and holds onto that moisture longer. It’s also soil that has good texture, a soild nutrient profile, micorbes and other living organisms, and drains well. Gardeners should always be thinking about how to boost the quality of the soil. Easy management strategies like incorporating organic matter can make a big difference. On our blog, read more about how you can impact your soil’s health, “A Better Way to Think About Soil.

While things might look grim in the landscape right now thanks to the drought, recognize this challenge as an opportunity to reexamine your gardening methods. What is working? How can I garden differently and still be successful? It’s a great time to revisit fundamentals like watering efficiently, making the best plant selections, and building soil health that, in more favorable conditions, may not seem as pressing. Celebrate a sharper focus on sustainability and best practices now; it will help you build a more resilient garden for the future. And hopefully soon, we’ll also be celebrating some raindrops, too.

Notes

1–From Glen’s piece on gardening during drought in NC

Resources and Additional Information


Drought Factsheet from Clemson Cooperative Extension

NC State Extension’s advice on lawn management during extreme heat and drought

Discover xeriscaping–a type of gardening that uses little to no supplemental irrigation

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-7lr

To Do in the Garden: March 2025

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

BOLO (be on the lookout) for early spring bloomers including star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), daffodils (Narsisus spp.) perhaps covered in late snow or bathed in warm sunshine, and the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). (Image credit: Melinda Heigel)

March: noun, the third month of the Julian calendar, verb from middle French meaning to trample. It appears that boots (not jack) might be in order.

By the time Y’all read this winter may be gone—or not.  The weather pattern may have changed to a drier more user-friendly one—or not.  We might be able to get out and work in our gardens—or not.  It might snow another 3 or 6″ to complement the already prodigious amount we’ve received.  Welcome to piedmont North Carolina in the spring where we beg for more/less rain, sunshine, wind, whatever we don’t currently have and decry perceived excesses of anything.  Gardeners can be a needy lot, but there is always hope.  We are nothing if not hopeful and optimistic.  We KNOW it (whatever “it” is) will get better and things will be just fine.

So, here are the things that can/should be done in the garden in March depending on all the things in the earlier paragraph.  Happy gardening!

Lawn Care

(Image credit: NC State Extension)

Cool season grasses (tall fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye) can be fertilized with a slow release high nitrogen (the first number) fertilizer.

Apply preemergent weed control after the forsythia (Forsythia intermedia) blooms and before the native dogwoods (Cornus florida) bloom.  (That there is real science.)

Commence mowing activities when needed (or when the mower no longer mires in the mud).  Cool season grasses should be kept mown at 3” to 4.” Warm season grasses (zoysia, Bermuda, centipede) are still dormant.  You get to play with them next month.

Remember, grass clippings should either be left on the lawn, composted, or used for mulch.  They don’t belong in the landfill.

Fertilizing

Feed your shrubbery this month.  Established plants do not need heavy fertilizing.  Let “moderation in all things” be your mantra. Shade trees can be fertilized now, but only if your SOIL TEST (free again beginning April 1 through November) indicates a need.

Emerging bulbs can be fertilized this month. Fertilize asparagus beds early in March, before the new spears emerge.

Planting

As usual, everything in this section is dependent upon soil conditions.

Trees and shrubs may be planted now as well as fruit trees and grape vines up to bud break.  Plants planted now will require more intentional water management through our oft droughty summer.

March is a good time to plant perennials.

Start annuals and warm season vegetables inside now if you haven’t already done so.  These can be transplanted outside after the threat of frost has gone.  (No bets on that date anymore.)

Rose bushes can be planted now.

The same veggies that can be planted in the fall can also be planted now (unless, of course, you are sick to death of broccoli and beets).  These include the aforementioned broccoli, beets, carrots, cabbages, cauliflower, potatoes and turnips.  Then there are the salad greens, lettuces, spinach, chard, etc.  So, in May it’ll be salad and roasted root vegetables for supper?

Pruning

Prune any fruit trees that didn’t get done in February.

Deadhead any early spring annuals such as pansies (Viola x hybrids) as the blooms fade in order to prolong bloom time.

Roses can be pruned in the latter half of the month.

Overgrown broadleaf shrubs can still be severely whacked.  (No, it won’t kill them, and they be much more manageable—for a while.)1

Spraying

The following miscreant pests will be out and about this time of the year:  euonymus scale, spider mites on evergreens, hybrid rhododendron borers, and lace bugs on azaleas.  Spray only as necessary with an appropriate product and always read and follow label directions.

Apply a dormant oil to fruit trees to control several insects.  This is especially important if you have just pruned the trees.

When in bloom, spray apple and pear trees with streptomycin to prevent fire blight.

Other Swell Stuff You Can Do in March

Get ready for prime time.  Check all your gardening equipment and make sure it will be ready to go when you need it.  Nothing is more frustrating than being all psyched up to mow the grass (I have heard there really are people for whom this is a reality) only to discover that the starter battery is dead, the blades need to be sharpened, all the tires are flat, the belt that broke last fall didn’t fix itself over the winter, all the things.  Check all the garden gizmos now and prevent a possible psychotic break later.

Try experimenting with a new annual, perennial or veggie this season.  Experimenting can be fun, and you might just discover a new BFF plant.  Also, experimenting has been shown to have very few side effects.

North Carolina Arbor Day (not to be confused with National Arbor Day) is this month.  It is always the first Friday after the 15th, ergo on the 21st this year.  Plant a tree or seven.

Get a few of your summer clothes out of the attic but keep your heavy winter jacket close by.  You could need both in the same day.

Mellow March, Y’all.

Notes

1–Keep in mind, many woody ornamentals are pruned according to their flowering date. Spring bloomers like dogwood or forsythia are usually pruned after they bloom. Summer-flowering plants are generally best pruned when dormant before new growth begins in the spring.

Resources and Additional Information

Learn more about organic lawn care: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/organic-lawn-care-a-guide-to-organic-lawn-maintenance-and-pest-management

How to read a fertilizing label like a pro: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/reading-a-fertilizer-label

Spring vegetable gardening: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-a-quick-reference-guide

Read our blog article on year round vegetable gardening for early springtime tips: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2F1

Pruning techniques for trees and shrubs: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/general-pruning-techniques

Guide to cleaning and sharpening garden tools: https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/how-to-clean-and-sharpen-garden-tools_MF3288

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5Eg