To Do in the Garden: March 2025

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

BOLO (be on the lookout) for early spring bloomers including star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), daffodils (Narsisus spp.) perhaps covered in late snow or bathed in warm sunshine, and the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). (Image credit: Melinda Heigel)

March: noun, the third month of the Julian calendar, verb from middle French meaning to trample. It appears that boots (not jack) might be in order.

By the time Y’all read this winter may be gone—or not.  The weather pattern may have changed to a drier more user-friendly one—or not.  We might be able to get out and work in our gardens—or not.  It might snow another 3 or 6″ to complement the already prodigious amount we’ve received.  Welcome to piedmont North Carolina in the spring where we beg for more/less rain, sunshine, wind, whatever we don’t currently have and decry perceived excesses of anything.  Gardeners can be a needy lot, but there is always hope.  We are nothing if not hopeful and optimistic.  We KNOW it (whatever “it” is) will get better and things will be just fine.

So, here are the things that can/should be done in the garden in March depending on all the things in the earlier paragraph.  Happy gardening!

Lawn Care

(Image credit: NC State Extension)

Cool season grasses (tall fescue, bluegrass, perennial rye) can be fertilized with a slow release high nitrogen (the first number) fertilizer.

Apply preemergent weed control after the forsythia (Forsythia intermedia) blooms and before the native dogwoods (Cornus florida) bloom.  (That there is real science.)

Commence mowing activities when needed (or when the mower no longer mires in the mud).  Cool season grasses should be kept mown at 3” to 4.” Warm season grasses (zoysia, Bermuda, centipede) are still dormant.  You get to play with them next month.

Remember, grass clippings should either be left on the lawn, composted, or used for mulch.  They don’t belong in the landfill.

Fertilizing

Feed your shrubbery this month.  Established plants do not need heavy fertilizing.  Let “moderation in all things” be your mantra. Shade trees can be fertilized now, but only if your SOIL TEST (free again beginning April 1 through November) indicates a need.

Emerging bulbs can be fertilized this month. Fertilize asparagus beds early in March, before the new spears emerge.

Planting

As usual, everything in this section is dependent upon soil conditions.

Trees and shrubs may be planted now as well as fruit trees and grape vines up to bud break.  Plants planted now will require more intentional water management through our oft droughty summer.

March is a good time to plant perennials.

Start annuals and warm season vegetables inside now if you haven’t already done so.  These can be transplanted outside after the threat of frost has gone.  (No bets on that date anymore.)

Rose bushes can be planted now.

The same veggies that can be planted in the fall can also be planted now (unless, of course, you are sick to death of broccoli and beets).  These include the aforementioned broccoli, beets, carrots, cabbages, cauliflower, potatoes and turnips.  Then there are the salad greens, lettuces, spinach, chard, etc.  So, in May it’ll be salad and roasted root vegetables for supper?

Pruning

Prune any fruit trees that didn’t get done in February.

Deadhead any early spring annuals such as pansies (Viola x hybrids) as the blooms fade in order to prolong bloom time.

Roses can be pruned in the latter half of the month.

Overgrown broadleaf shrubs can still be severely whacked.  (No, it won’t kill them, and they be much more manageable—for a while.)1

Spraying

The following miscreant pests will be out and about this time of the year:  euonymus scale, spider mites on evergreens, hybrid rhododendron borers, and lace bugs on azaleas.  Spray only as necessary with an appropriate product and always read and follow label directions.

Apply a dormant oil to fruit trees to control several insects.  This is especially important if you have just pruned the trees.

When in bloom, spray apple and pear trees with streptomycin to prevent fire blight.

Other Swell Stuff You Can Do in March

Get ready for prime time.  Check all your gardening equipment and make sure it will be ready to go when you need it.  Nothing is more frustrating than being all psyched up to mow the grass (I have heard there really are people for whom this is a reality) only to discover that the starter battery is dead, the blades need to be sharpened, all the tires are flat, the belt that broke last fall didn’t fix itself over the winter, all the things.  Check all the garden gizmos now and prevent a possible psychotic break later.

Try experimenting with a new annual, perennial or veggie this season.  Experimenting can be fun, and you might just discover a new BFF plant.  Also, experimenting has been shown to have very few side effects.

North Carolina Arbor Day (not to be confused with National Arbor Day) is this month.  It is always the first Friday after the 15th, ergo on the 21st this year.  Plant a tree or seven.

Get a few of your summer clothes out of the attic but keep your heavy winter jacket close by.  You could need both in the same day.

Mellow March, Y’all.

Notes

1–Keep in mind, many woody ornamentals are pruned according to their flowering date. Spring bloomers like dogwood or forsythia are usually pruned after they bloom. Summer-flowering plants are generally best pruned when dormant before new growth begins in the spring.

Resources and Additional Information

Learn more about organic lawn care: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/organic-lawn-care-a-guide-to-organic-lawn-maintenance-and-pest-management

How to read a fertilizing label like a pro: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/reading-a-fertilizer-label

Spring vegetable gardening: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-a-quick-reference-guide

Read our blog article on year round vegetable gardening for early springtime tips: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-2F1

Pruning techniques for trees and shrubs: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/general-pruning-techniques

Guide to cleaning and sharpening garden tools: https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/how-to-clean-and-sharpen-garden-tools_MF3288

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-5Eg

Designing a pollinator-friendly garden: Tips from a pollinator expert

By Martha Keehner Engelke, NC State Extension Master Gardener SM volunteer of Durham County

Winter is the perfect time to make a plan to revise your garden. For many, that means making your garden more attractive to pollinators. Recently, I learned that building a garden that makes the A-list for pollinators is not just about the plants. I had an opportunity to interview Dr. Danesha Seth Carley, PhD Associate Professor in Horticultural Science at North Carolina State University (NCSU).

Dr. Carley’s expertise is sustainable management of urban landscapes with a focus on pollinator ecology. Her recent research programs include pollen quality in commonly planted wild-flowers, pollinator ecology, and pollinator habitat establishment.  She has conducted her research along North Carolina roadways and at the historic Pinehurst #2 and #4 golf courses.

I heard Dr. Carley speak at a program sponsored by the Gardening Association of North Carolina . I contacted her, and she graciously agreed to a follow-up interview.  She expanded on topics discussed in her presentation as well as her book Pollinator Gardening for the South: Creating Sustainable Habitats (co-authored with Anne M. Spafford)1.

Butterflies, bees, flies, wasps and birds are all considered to be pollinators. The most important pollinator is the bee. Bees contribute millions of dollars to the U.S. economy through pollination. (Images credit: Pixaby)

What does a pollinator want?

Let’s talk about the most important pollinator: Bees. There are two main categories of bees: social and solitary. Social bees are divided into 3 categories: bumblebees, honey bees and stingless bees (which are not well understood). Solitary bees, which are a larger category, include carpenter bees and the tiny sweat bee. In her book, Dr Carley tells the fascinating story about the social life of bees (as well as other pollinators).

The gardener needs to remember that pollinators choose plants that are best suited to their anatomy particularly tongue length (proboscis) and mouth parts. Bees are attracted to bowl-shaped flower that often have a prolific pollen ring in the middle. Native bees enjoy feasting on plants in the Asteraceae, Salix, Solidago, Helianthus, and Symphyotricum families. Butterflies and hummingbirds have longer tongues. They will be attracted to more tubular flowers such as Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp) ; Bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis); and Turk’s cap lily (Lilium superbun).

All varieties of a particular plant are not equal when it comes to pollinators. Cultivars are often bred to maximize flower size, disease resistance, or aroma. This means that the cultivar may have less quality pollen than the plant from which it was bred. If you see the plant described as “flora pleno” (meaning with a full flower) it is likely to be a double bloom and thus less accessible to pollinators. A plant that is considered to be a great pollinator as a single, loses some of its attraction when it is a double. For example, Purple coneflower (echinacea purpurea) is one of the best plants for a pollinator garden but a number of cultivars with double flowers are more difficult for pollinators to access.

On the left echinacea purpurea has single flowers and is considered to be a great flower for pollinators. One the right, the flowers of Echinacea Supreme™ Elegance make it more difficult for pollinators to access. To some gardeners, the cultivar may seem more beautiful but the pollinators don’t see it that way. (Image credit: NC Tool Box; National Gardening Association, NJ Bob)

Someone like Dr. Carley is frequently asked which plants are the best for pollinators and she has an answer for her “Big Five” plants. They are: Mountain Mints (pycnanthemum sp.); Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea); Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa); Asters (Symphyotrichum sp); and Blanket Flower (Gaillardia pulchella).

Pollinators are attracted by pollen and nectar. Desirable pollinator plants include: Mountain Mints (Image credit: ( NC Extension, Kerry Woods CC BY NC); Coneflowers (Image credit: NC Extension, Cathy DeWitt, CC BY 4.0) ; Butterfly Milkweed (Image credit: NC Extension, Mary Keim CC-BY-NC- SA-2); ; Asters (Image credit: NC Extension Douglas Goldman, USDA CC BY 4.0) ); and Blanket Flower (Image credit: elephantkitty CC BY NC ND 2.0)

The Importance of Structure/Composition

Just like humans, pollinators need two things to survive: nutrients (carbohydrates from nectar, protein from pollen) and a safe place to live and work. To be on the “A-list” pollinators want access to high quality pollen and nectar and protection from predators. This is why the structure of a garden is important.

Many of us approach gardening from the perspective of “buy one, plant one”. In our quest to have a lot of different plants, we may be reducing the attraction of our garden to pollinators. Planting clumps of plants rather than a single plant can help pollinators be more efficient. For example, honey bees and bumble bees enjoy goldenrod (Solidago). If you plant one goldenrod the female bees (the males don’t forage) collect the pollen on their hairy bodies (which is one reason they are the best pollinators), and then transfer it to their rear legs into their “pollen basket”. They mix the pollen with a bit of nectar to hold it in place and head back to the hive. If she has to do this several times because one plant doesn’t provide enough pollen, she is less efficient and it means that she might have less energy and be more susceptible to disease. There are two ways to prevent this: plant clumps of good quality plants or increase the diversity of your plantings (next section).

Goldenrod (Soldaigo spp. is a great plant for pollinators including this honey bee. When planted in clumps it helps the bees (and other pollinators) be more efficient. Of course, Goldenrod is a fast growing plant so you don’t need too many of them. (Image credit: NC Extension Plant Tool Box, Hope Duckworth)

Space for a happy home and safety from predators and toxins are other considerations related to the structure of a pollinator garden. While social bees (like honeybees) will live happily in wooden boxes or hollow trees, solitary bees dig their nests in the ground or in tubular stems. Resisting the urge to cut plants with hollow stems until the spring temperature is above 57oF (the temperature when bees become active) allows bees to have a safe home for the winter.

It is also important to plant your pollinator garden away from areas that will be treated with pesticides and away from public walkways. Some people are allergic to or afraid of bees or consider flies and wasps to be a nuisance. If your garden is in the front of your house, you might want to plant your best pollinating plants toward the back of the bed. A strategically placed shrub or tree is another way of protecting pollinators.

 A cluster of orange coneflowers allows butterflies and birds access to abundant nectar and seeds without excessive movement or exposure to predators. The shrub in the back offers protection. (Image credit: NC State Extension, Chris Moorman)

Diversity/Seasonality

A garden made of different types of plants (especially if they are native) is the best type of pollinator garden. Native plants are best because pollinators and native plants have evolved together. The NC Wildflower Association has developed an excellent chart of native plants that includes sun requirements and seasonality. The NC State Extension office provides a list of pollinator plants that include trees, shrubs and vines. These are useful tools in developing a garden that will valued by pollinators all year round.

As you begin your landscape design, be sure to think vertically as well as horizontally. Dr. Carley cautions that you need layers for depth and smooth transitions between plant layers. Thin clumps (or sweeps) of perennials that bloom early in the season that are planted close to other perennials that bloom later means that you have diversity as well as seasonality. It also makes your garden look better because something is always blooming.

To get some height consider a tree. One of the best is the Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis). It is one of the few plants that has flowers before leaves. It blooms in early spring when pollen from other plants is scarce and it has high quality pollen and nectar. Honey bees, bumble bees, mason bees, cuckoo bees, long-horned bees, mining bees, and sweat bees love it. Redbuds are also a host plant for the larvae of several butterflies and moths. Songbirds and some other mammals eat the seeds. What’s not to like?

Pair the Redbud with shorter shrubs such as a native Sweetbush (Clethra alnifolia) which blooms much later but is visited by hummingbirds, butterflies, native bees, and later by birds who enjoy the fruit and a few shorter plants like the Cardinal Flower (Lobelia sp). Maybe even a few annuals for filling those bare spaces? Now you have a garden that is on the A-List for pollinators but is also attractive to look at.

Eastern redbud (top left) is one of the first plants to flower in the spring, and cardinal flower (right) and goldenrod (bottom left) are two excellent late-season nectar sources for bees, butterflies and other insects. (Image credit: NC Cooperative Extension, left photo by Alice B. Russell; other photos by Chris Moorman)

As a final thought, I quote Dr. Carley “there is no garden too small or landscape too large to include pollinator habitat. Together we can help protect our pollinator friends, and maybe we can inspire others along the way”.1

Note1: If you are interested in getting Dr Carley’s book, it is available through UNC Press.

Additional Reading and Resources

To learn how you can foster a home for bees during the winter consider leaving these plants with pithy stems during the winter. If you need to cut them, leave the long stems until spring in an obscure place in your landscape: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-manage-a-successful-bee-hotel/appendix-3-plants-that-produce-hollow-or-pithy-twigs-and-stems-used-by-nesting-bees

Here are some suggestions on specific plant that will attract pollinators to your garden:

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/landscaping-for-wildlife-with-native-plants

https://gardening.ces.ncsu.edu/attracting-birds-beneficial-insects-other-wildlife/pollinators-and-other-beneficial-insects

The North Carolina Arboretum provides suggestions for plants and landscaping for a home pollinator garden: https://www.ncarboretum.org/2020/05/08/ask-the-arboretum-creating-a-pollinator-paradise-garden/

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