Garden Dreamin’ on a Hot Summer Day

Donna Sell, NC State Extension Master Gardener℠ volunteer Intern, Durham County

You know the song – well, some of you will: All the leaves are brown / and the sky is gray / I’ve been out for a walk on a winter’s day … That’s California Dreamin’ by The Mamas & the Papas. Only, this isn’t a winter’s day in California  – it’s midsummer in the North Carolina Piedmont, and it’s been a scorcher. Too hot for a walk. Too hot to work in the garden.  Between the 98-degree days and the near-daily downpours since mid-June, my tomato plants are taking the lyrics literally  – all their leaves  are brown, shriveled, and curling up at the edges. 

I may not be lounging poolside sipping Mai Tais, but judging by the state of things, the weeds are living their best life — safe and soggy in the Piedmont.

Whenever I do venture outside, it’s not long before I beat a hasty retreat back indoors to chill in the air conditioning. So naturally, though I’m not doing much in the garden, I’ve been reading  –  and guess what I’m reading about? Gardening, of course.  I’ve come across several interesting trends for home gardeners that have me thinking about ways to add more interest and value to my own small horticultural beds. 


Gardening for Pollinators

With growing concern about habitat loss and ecosystem disruption  –  caused by population growth, land development, and commercial agriculture – native pollinator gardens are gaining popularity. They offer home gardeners a meaningful way to support biodiversity by providing food and shelter for birds, bees, butterflies, and other wildlife that rely on pollen and nectar. Native plants are typically low maintenance and disease resistant. Their deep roots help build healthy soil, and they add  diversity and seasonal beauty to the landscape.

(Left to right) A common eastern bumblebee on purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), and an American lady butterfly (Vanessa virginiensis) with its head buried in a zinnia floret. (Image credit: Donna Sell)

The payoff for this home gardener has been delightful. Over the past six years, my husband and I  enhanced and transformed our generic foundation beds by adding native perennials, shrubs, and other non-invasive annual flowers.

Early this summer, the first butterfly to visit our yard was a zebra swallowtail (Eurytides marcellus). I had never seen one before, so after frantically snapping photos and video, I ran inside to learn more about this striking creature. I discovered that its host plant is the pawpaw tree  –  the only plant where it will lay eggs and the sole food source for its larvae. Fortunately, the adult butterfly accepts nectar from a wide variety of flowers. Since we live in northwest Durham, in a community surrounded by woodlands and near the Eno River, I suspect there are some wild pawpaws nearby.

(Left to right) The first butterfly spotted in the garden, a zebra swallowtail (Eurytides marcellus), and an eastern amberwing dragonfly (Perithemis tenera) perched on anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum). One of the smallest dragonflies in North America, the eastern amberwing is also known for mimicking wasps to avoid predators. (Image credit: Donna Sell)

Since that first sighting, our garden – especially the anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)  – has been buzzing with life: bees, butterflies, dragonflies, and more. Too many to name, but each one a joy to observe and learn about.

Foodscaping

The trend that interests me most is foodscaping. Also called edible landscaping, it’s the practice of planting vegetables among  existing ornamental plants. Not only does it add beauty and texture to your landscape, but it also provides fresh, homegrown food.

I already do a bit of vegetable gardening with my husband. We’ve maintained a plot at Briggs Ave. Community Garden for about six years. What I’ve learned is this: vegetables can be trickier than flowers or shrubs. There are more variables to juggle  –  from timing and pests to soil needs and weather patterns  –  but the payoff can be worth it.

That said, I’ve already been doing a little foodscaping on the sly – tucking herbs into beds, planting an okra here, a pepper there, and even growing a tomato in a container. I’m not sure I have the gene for three full seasons of vegetable gardening – the kind that takes true persistence and experimentation. But a tomato nestled among the marigolds and spicebush? A shishito pepper here, a patch of arugula or spinach there? That, I might be able to handle.

A garden can serve as both a pollinator haven and a foodscape. (Left) A pearl crescent (Phyciodes tharos) visits blooming oregano in the herb garden. (Image credit: Donna Sell) (Center) A pipevine swallowtail (Battus philenor) sips nectar from ornamental verbena bonariensis mingled with the delicate white flowers of cilantro. (Image credit: Marcia Kirinus) (Right) Another pearl crescent rests on a marigold in the shishito pepper section of the garden. (Image credit: Donna Sell)

While the concept of foodscaping isn’t new, its popularity has grown in recent decades  – particularly during the 2020 pandemic. Some trace its resurgence to earlier challenges, like the 2008 financial crisis and rising global food prices, while others point to urbanization and a growing focus on sustainability. Whatever the reason, the benefits are clear: foodscaping promotes plant diversity, which helps with weed and pest control and attracts more pollinators to the garden.

There are plenty of online resources about foodscaping, but one of the best is right in our own backyard: local horticulturist, gardener, and author Brie Arthur (briegrows.com). She published The Foodscape Revolution in 2017 and has been an enthusiastic advocate ever since. I first learned about her through our monthly Durham County Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer newsletter, which mentioned an upcoming field trip to one of the gardens she designed.

Brie also shares practical, down-to-earth videos on YouTube as “Brie the Plant Lady.” Be warned — her passion for gardening is contagious!

Arthur encourages gardeners to make the most of the edges and borders of their planting beds. Getting started is surprisingly simple. If you have existing beds with perennials and shrubs that receive at least six hours of sun and have well-drained soil, you can begin by planting vegetables in the spaces between. Since most perennials have deep roots, interplanting with shallower-rooted vegetables can improve soil health and serve as living ground cover – even better than mulch. Plus, the perennials help disguise any unsightly gaps when the vegetables die back.

In Conclusion

There are never-ending ways to add personal value and make your home garden unique. In a future installment of the Garden Trends topic, we’ll take a look at the vespertine/moon garden and how to create a serene home oasis – for the night and your senses – where pale or silvery-white flowers open at dusk, reflecting the moonlight and attracting nocturnal pollinators. Fragrant blooms like moonflower, four o’clocks, and evening primrose release their scent after dark. We’ll also examine living fences (softscape) and the benefits of planting shrubs and trees for privacy or space separation, as opposed to using wooden or vinyl built fences (hardscape).

When the weather breaks, I’ll be out walking and daydreaming as I peer into neighborhood yards – always on the lookout for something new and beautiful. Stay tuned…

Resources and Additional Information

Edited by Marcia Kirinus, NC State Extension Master Gardener℠ volunteer Durham County

ShortLink: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-6rP

To Do in the Garden: June 2025

By Gary Crispell, NC State Extension Master Gardener volunteerSM of Durham County

(Left to right) Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) and Stoke’s aster (Stokesia laevis) are strutting their stuff this June in the ACG thanks to all the rain we received in May. (Image credit: Debbie Roos CC BY 2.0; Melinda Heigel; Hope Duckworth CC BY 4.0)

Will you looky here, it is June.  I must have turned my back in April, and May happened while I wasn’t looking.  I do remember some rain…in bunches.  My gauge reads 6.15” on the 29th with a bit more in the forecast.  We’ll need it this month as things begin to heat up.  The last couple of Junes have been a little stingy in the rain department.

The Accidental Cottage Garden (ACG) has been spectacular all spring.  Right now, there is a plethora of blooms and an exciting palette of colors. I counted nineteen different species in bloom. There are Chinese forget-me-nots (Cygnoglossum amabile), lance leaf coreopsis (C. lanceolata), purple cone flower (Echinacea purpurea), English daisies (Bella perennis) and gallardia (G. pulchella).  There is the luscious pink of the Corsica lily (Lilium x Corsica), and the blue/purple of the Stoke’s aster (Stoksia laevis) playing off each other.  There are two varieties of day lily, Hemerocallis x Stella d’Oro and the species typical orange “ditch lily.”

Another very orange plant currently in bloom is the butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa).  Speaking of butterflies, the butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) brings some height to the WNW side of the garden.  The sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) is still blooming, though not as profusely as last month and the same can be said of the spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana).

(Left to right) New to the ACG this season is the New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), a native deciduous shrub that can be found in all parts of North Carolina. Its blossoms are stunning and total pollinator magnets. The conical Mexican hat (Ratitida columnifera) offers up some whimsy. (Image credit: Debbie Roos CC BY 2.0)

A surprise to me (Mostly due to unfamiliarity with the plant.) is the New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) plants installed to replace two crape myrtles in front of the house.  The bees of all types have been all over the white ping pong ball inflorescences.  In front of them the false vervain (Verbena carnea) and forking larkspur (Consolida regalis) provide two different shades of violet.  In the same vicinity are Mexican hat (Ratitida columnifera), tickseed (Coreopsis verticillata) and fire engine red gladiolus (G. communis x hybrid).  Oops.  I left out the cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) and the perennial garden mum (Chrysanthemum x ‘Too-Many-Choices’).  And that’s just the front yard.

There’s a lot to do in June, so let’s get started before it gets too hot.

Lawn Care

Last call to get off your duff and feed those warm season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia).  Well, perhaps not THE last call, but if you want a lush green lawn all summer…just sayin’.  Of course, we all know that you sent in a FREE SOIL TEST last fall or this spring so you know exactly what N-P-K ratio to use and in what quantity to apply…right?  (Come on, friends.  They are FREE from April through November.)

June is THE month to apply fertilizer to centipede lawns.  If you, too, didn’t get your soil tested the recommended application rate is ½ pound of 15-0-14 or equivalent per 1000 square feet.

June is as good a month as any (and better than most) to core aerate your lawn.  It will facilitate getting water and nutrients down into the root zone where the plants can use it.  And it puts air into our heavy Triassic Piedmont soils.  Win, win, win!

Fertilizing

This is a great time to fertilize dogwoods (Cornus sps.).

Vegetable gardens will reward you later if you give them a side dressing of a balanced (10-10-10 or equivalent) fertilizer about now.

Planting

For everyone trying to outlast the frost, it’s gone.  No more until October (maybe).  Therefore, you may plant all the things in the vegetable garden safely.  (Safely, from cold.  No guarantees against critters and single-celled pests.)  It is borderline too late for seeding.  Transplants would be a safer (There’s that word again.) bet. 

Pruning

A collection of gardening tools including various types of pruning shears and loppers with orange and red handles, displayed on a concrete surface.

(Image credit: NC State Extension)

June is a fine time to prune lots of stuff.  Make sure the tools are sharp and lubricated.  (Just the tools, now.  The operator should not be lubricated.)

Coniferous (seeds from cones) trees and shrubs such as cedar, pine, arborvitaes, chamaecyparis, junipers, cryptomeria, etc. may be pruned judiciously now.  Be gentle as these plants do not generally put out new growth below the pruning cut.

Azaleas should be pruned before the Fourth of July except for Encores®.  The only information I could find recommended pruning them in the spring immediately after the first blooming.

Some ericaceous plants (acid-loving) may suffer from a disease called die back.  As the name implies, the branches die back from the terminal ends.  Prune these branches out as soon as you detect it by making cuts 4” to 6” below the diseased part of the branch.  Be sure to sanitize your pruner with a 10% bleach solution between each cut.

Hydrangea macrophylla (macro=big, phylla=leaf) can be pruned when the flowers fade.

Keep garden mums (Chrysanthemum sps.) pinched back until mid-July for nice full plants and lots of fall blooms.

Spraying

Be vigilant in looking for June’s usual suspects—lace bugs on azaleas and pyracantha, leaf miners, especially on boxwoods, bagworms on evergreens and aphids like everywhere on everything.  If the bagworms have already ensconced themselves in their little bags you will have to pick them off individually and dispose of them as you see fit.  I smush ‘em.  Treat the others with the appropriate pesticide applied as per the label.

(Left to right) Be on the lookout for these pathogens and pests this June: circular dark spots on tomato leaves signal early blight of tomatoes; leaf miners on boxwoods leave blister mines and discolored leaves; and aphids, as seen here on a tulip poplar leaf, leave a shiny, sticky residue behind called honeydew. (Image credit: Inga Meadows, NC State Extension; SD Frank, NC State Extension)

Be watchful for tomato early blight.  It is caused by two closely related fungi, Alternaria tomatophila, and A. solani.  (See, I can do research.)  The initial symptoms are dark spots on the leaves.  The spots will eventually form concentric circles.  The leaves will then become yellow, turn brown and fall off spreading the spores to the soil to wait until you plant tomatoes there again next year.  And the cycle repeats itself.  Gaaaah!  Nature can be sooo frustrating!  In order to try to interrupt the cycle, remove the diseased leaves and treat the rest of the plant with an appropriate fungicide.  There are organic options.

While we’re in the veggie garden (If one grows tomatoes amongst the flowers, is it a flower garden with tomatoes or a tomato garden with flowers?  Philosophy is so much fun.) there are vast hordes of insects who think that every week is “Restaurant Week” in the garden.  There are several different moth larvae feeding on the cruciferous veggies (broccoli, cabbages, etc.), cucumber beetles on cucumbers (I mean really?  Where else would one expect to find cucumber beetles?) and melons (Oh.  There.), squash vine borers on cucurbits (squash, melons, not cucumbers), flea beetles on beans, tomatoes, and eggplants, and the ubiquitous aphids about whom we have already gossiped.

“The Beetles are Coming!” Keep your eyes open this month for Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica). They attack a variety of trees, shrubs, and edible crops. (Right) Among other plant parts, Japanese beetles devour leaf tissue, leaving a “skeletonized” leaf with only the veins remaining. (Image credit: Steve Schoof, NCSU/NCSU Extension)

Japanese beetles will make their grand entrance sometime this month.  Spray them, powder the plants, pick them off and drown (or squish) them.  Back in the cretaceous period, my Dad gave me a penny per beetle collected in a one pound tobacco can with kerosene in the bottom (No longer recommended, of course, but water made sudsy with dish soap is a safe and effective alternative.)  Pretty soon there won’t even be pennies.  This is progress.

Poison ivy/oak, kudzu, and honeysuckle are ripe for eradication efforts this month.

Per usual, continue spray programs for roses, bunch grapes, and fruit trees.

OTHER WONDER-FILLED AND GARDEN-RELATED OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO BE PURSUED IN JUNE

Watering.  I know, Mother Nature has on several occasions in May attempted to drown your plants…all of them.  It would be foolhardy to assume that this will continue.  The last few Junes have tended toward the dry side.  Plants in general including the lawn need about 1” of water per week.  If they are in pots or planters, they may need more.  It is best to water in the morning to minimize evaporation and disease spread.  Mother Nature is aware of these admonitions but doesn’t read this blog.1

Strawberry beds can be renovated now because strawberry fields aren’t forever as it turns out.

Patios and decks should receive maximum use this month.  Cool beverages, light hors-d’oeuvres, or charcuterie boards along with lively conversation are highly recommended.  Organic varieties of each are available.

Have a sensational and scintillating summer, Y’all!!  

Notes:

1–Later this month on the blog, Extension Master Gardener volunteer Eric Wiebe will be walking us through sustainable and effective drip irrigation (It’s easier than you think!) Stay tuned.

Resources and Additional Information:

More on pruning hydrangeas in Martha Engelke’s previous blog post “When Should I Prune My Hydrangea?… It Depends:” https://wp.me/p2nIr1-3oH


General pruning tips with NC State Extension: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/general-pruning-techniques

Address Japanese beetle pressure with Kathryn Hamilton’s blog article “Coping During Japanese Beetle “Season:” https://durhammastergardeners.com/2022/06/15/coping-during-japanese-beetle-season-2/

Tips on eradicating poison ivy with Clemson Cooperative Extension: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/poison-ivy/

Article Short Link: https://wp.me/p2nIr1-63r